Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Angela Missoni went for soft colors for fall 2011 and a slouchy, fluid silhouette.

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our report will follow soon.

Versus Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Christopher Kane presented his second collection for Versus this afternoon in a packed venue. Stand outs were the shiny prints and shoes with purple heels and platforms.

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our report will follow soon.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

It always makes a nice picture when designers use the differences and opposites in men’s clothes wear and women’s in their collection. Dolce & Gabbana used all the elements of masculine and feminine dressing in one collection. Black, grey and white were the main colors for both sexes, while yellow, pink, blue, gold and silver added energy. The masculine part of the collection contained slim cut tailored jackets and overcoats, lower-rise pants with slimmed down leg at calf. But also tuxedo shirts or shirts with large collars, jackets with cut off sleeves, vest jackets and vests. For evening coats and jackets were cut in lace, paillettes, herringbone and had with embroidered lapels.

The feminine part was all about body-hugging shapes, loose chiffon printed dresses with star motifs or musical notes, lace, paillettes, jewelled embroidery and touches of fur.

The result was an energetic collection, thanks to the music and colorful, shiny accessories, but it didn’t reach the high level of the anniversary-collections the designduo presented the last two season, where they focused at the quality of their  fabrics and design. This collection sometimes reminded too much of their second line.

Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Peter Dundas presented his first Pucci-menswear yesterday during his women’s fallshow. Not really exciting stuff, so most attention went to the women’s clothes. For Fall he’s got inspired by a long list of topics: hunters,  Tyrol, winter palaces, Romy Schneider as Sissi and  Victoire de Castellane, the designer of Dior’s haute joaillerie.
The bust was the center point of the collection, Dundas framed it with corseted hourglass dresses that had long sleeves and a little collar or a bow at the neckline.  These came in all manner of materials, from practically humble loden wool to sumptuous black velvet embellished with crystals arrayed in diamond patterns, as well as in the familiar Pucci prints.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The fall-collection Marni sent out this morning was completely different from the sporty, vibrating and colorful collection that’s in the stores for spring. And yet, typical Marni, thanks to the motifs, color-choices, chunky shoes and jewelry. The overall look felt vintage with a very modern and contemporary touch.

The shape was rigorous: strict yet softened around the edges. The tone is graphic, dry, non-romantic: juxtapositions of colors and textures give garments a constructivist feel. Straight lines and dense fabrics defined a new dialogue between clothing and body, but the underlying message was definitely feminine.

The silhouette is lean and coherent, with rounded shoulders and hemlines that stop right below the knee. The garments encase the body as they were soft cocoons. Bonded leather coats have an architectonic purity, while furs add a tactile element through intarsia patterns and unexpected tonal combinations. Fabrics had an intense, tactile hand: double-faced wool crepe; wool fil bouclè; bonded lurex knit; knitted wool felt; bonded leather.
The palette was precious and strict, with slight ruptures: tones of black, cream, midnight blue and jade green are accented with flashes of yellow, pink, coral and inky purple.

Backstage at Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

We were able to go backstage at Roberto Cavalli and watch the hair- and make-up team transforming the models in Cavalli-beauties. We actually spotted a new way of killing time at the models: reading thick novels. Our fashion-booklist will follow soon!

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2011 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

It was a typical Roberto Cavalli-show, full of boho-chic in muddy colors, faded animalprints and thin layers.
Cavalli took last season’s hippie babe and pushed her forward a decade for a futuristic Eighties/baroque mash-up. There were some tribal elements (feathers, prints) and the models hungrily stalked the catwalk like they were recovering from an all-night rager. Also present were strong-shouldered jackets over pants and short drop-waist dresses.  They were over-embellished and rendered in a myriad of ways: spliced, sliced, fringed, feathered and beaded, in a palette of gold, bronze, blacks and blood red.  Cavalli explored a different sort of decadence by night with gowns skewing from gothic to ethereal.

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

As always Giorgio Armani is choosing his own direction when it comes to fashiontrends. For him no fancy colors, no Mod-style, no dressing up at his Emporio Armani-collection. Instead he plays his well-know play with fabrics, textures, black and white. He got inspired by a film noir, where beauty is concealed behind a pair of dark glasses and under a hat. This resulted into a total black collection, with flashes of white and blue. There were jumpsuits, sharp cut full trousers and  sculpted jackets. The silhouette was long and fluid with raw-edge finishes, fabrics were matt, velvety and mongolian fur added a touch of luxury.

Remarkable were the detachable details, like pockets on a belt around the waist, balloon-shaped sleeves, cuffs and leather kneehigh bootcaps.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Raf Simons sent out another strong collection for Jil Sander. Coming fall it’s about streamlined ski-wear with a classic early 60’s twist and – again – couture-inspired volumes. In bright colors but also darker ones, like forest-green and blue. And in thick, dense fabrics, even puffed up like down.

The collection focused again on cut and shape. Simons started from the couture sensibility of spring but with a Sixties vibe. Ski-pants with hooded sweaters with ski-motifs opened the show, followed by waffled knits.  Then came the big clothes,  cut in dense, solid, bold-toned fabrics with considerable self-structure. Simons added more volume with a broadened dropped shoulder that fell into folds in back. He used this technique for coats and dresses,  sometimes with loose half-belts in front or back.

It was not an easy collection. But new fashion is never easy to congest and accept. But someone has to stir up things and Raf Simons is doing a good job. he started the whole colorstory that’s filling the streets at the moment. And the next change is volume and proportion. It’s just a matter of time.

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