Round Up Milan FW2011

All lovely femininity and seduction is what we perceived past week in Milan. This is definitely part of the Milan signature. Here are some linking influences to round up Milan: a shared sense of nostalgia, amazing fabrics (it’s all in the mix) and exiting colour schemes.

Gucci and Prada put a big mark on this Milan season. They are the runners up in the 5 influences we like to quote.

SIXTIES Prada moved us towards the 60s and 70s, some literary references like dropped waists with big, low-slung belts and chunky buttons. But most of all innovative and refreshing.

GLAM: Gucci reinforces the 20’s, 30’s feel, which was already strong in NY, and this was done masterful in an amazing mix of saturated shades, topped with lush fur and loads of feminine flair.

SOFT COLOUR: a statement made by Missoni, new hues which will surely be of influence in the near fashion future.

MASCULINE/FEMININE: Ferragamo played the masculine against the feminine wonderfully and we’ve seen more of these androgynous twists at Dolce & Gabana, Dsquared² and Sportmax.

SHINE: when it came to all the shiny surface effects, another BIG issue, Etro, the master of print, was one of the many designers who showed these artfully.

One last remark! Long lengths, extremely long, but still (we didn’t count) we’re sure Milan showed more knee then NY. We guess since most designers are referencing towards a more recent era.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

First View Milan FW2011: More Lace

There’s more lace to come from Milan! We spotted it in New York and London and got it confirmed now in Milan. Lace is a red thread linking collections, looks and styles.From cobwebby, embroidered, chunky to featherweight. Plasticized, coated, printed and sequined. From antique to high tech and modernistic.

In Milan, it was most of all used the authentic way. Pretty and lady like, refined Chantilly lace.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan FW2011: Soft Color

The soft colors that popped up in Milan are definitely an opening towards a new spirit.

A fresh palette launched by Bottega Veneta, Missoni and Etro. Pale precious pastels. Not just soft in shades, also dimensional peach-touch fabrics with lots of knots, curls and pile. Candy coloured yet not that sweet, the unusual fabrics and wild combinations give this look a daring twist that makes us curious to see more of it next season.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Arrivederci Milano!

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2011 Day 6

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The name of the Giorgio Armani fall collection was Boudoir. Maybe because of the powdery pink colors? The fluffy furs? The dreamy dresses? Anyway, the master redefined the trousers by cutting them off at the ankle and giving the room to sway. Skirts were long and flowing, dresses skimmed the figure, fluid as water, and the Armani-suit got an update: buttons at the back instead of the front.

Soft pinks were a constant, together with black , gray and brown. Every single fabric was the product of research said the program-notes: satins that seem to meld into the skin, siks, velvets and chiffon that float like a trail of perfume.

DSquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The fall-collection Dean and Dan Caten sent oput this morning was the same theme their menscollection had: early American settlers mixed with tough biker chic. The basis: ultra tight jeans, leather bikerjackets or jackets with pouf peaked shoulders and nipped in the waist, white shirts, long coats and lace up boots set on iron-blades, ice-skating style.  There were also bustier tops, floor-sweeping leather dusters,  plaid hotpants, fringed blankets worn as capes or wraps and massive fur coats.

It was the styling that brought panache at the show and the collection, leaving that all behind what’s left is a jeans, a jacket and a shirt. Nothing new really.

First View Milan FW2011: Shine

The Shine-theme is about all that shines, from metallic armors to shimmery diaphanous layers. Who thought we would be dipped in sobriety for another season was wrong. Though there are still restrained looks and  calm understatement plus loads of minimalistic shapes, some designers have clearly found a route to escape.

It is far easier to diversify and stand out in more expressive and new materials then when having to dig deep into total simple and soberness. So we welcome the sequins, high sheen silks, lurex metal shine and slick skin looks. Plus high tech coatings or big translucent scales layer plain colour and print.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Aquilano.Rimondi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi were inspired by Dutch artist Piet Mondrian for their own collection, which was all about straight lines.

But the design duo kept away from the YSL-way of interpreting the Mondrian-theme, instead they only used the gridlines on the flapper-style dresses made from velvet and lurex, some embellished with geometric bead embroidery or ostrich feathers.  Rich coats were made from boiled wool and interwoven with contrasting strips of satin. Colorwise Aquilano and Rimondi fell for burnished shades of copper and sienna plus lemon, orange and lime.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2011

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

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