Comme des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 21, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Paris

A bunch of sexless punkers with a touch of Goth; that’s how you’d describe the models walking todays Comme des Garçons show.

The male models walking the show often appeared like girls, due to their crazy black wigs, but also because of the very feminine designs they got put on. They wore tailored polka dot coats, pleated skirts and long tunics. Not to mention the rose print that popped up on some dark colored jackets and pants.

Though the designs were perfectly tailored the image the show portrayed was kind of confusing. Then again, we shouldn’t be to shocked about lack of gender in this collection. Androgyny is a big trend in the international fashion scene right now and Rei Kawakubo was right to jump right into it.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 20, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris

At Jean Paul Gaultier richly styled models walked the runway. They were dressed to the max in full on forties looks topped off by funky fedoras.

One of the most eyecatching things about the collection was a brick print, which we funny enough already saw at Moschino and which Marloes Blaas is planning on showing us during Amsterdam Fashion Week as well.

Some of the designs (strong coats) looked like an immediate hit, others (the colorful fur vests) not so much. There were of course some typical JPG items in the mix, like a few (maxi!) skirts, striped sweaters (in velvet red) and shiny trenches/parkas.

Presented on the runway it all appeared to be a little too much of everything. But when you look past the rich styling and just observe the unique designs on their own you’ll see a true artist has been working his skills..

Bas Kosters Preview Amsterdam Fashion Week

January 20, 2012 by  
Filed under Amsterdam, Fashion, Featured Items, womenswear

Our third preview is about Bas Kosters, who will show his fall/winter 2012/2013 collection at the openings-night on Wednesday 25 January at 09.00 PM. He spoke with us about his brand new collection and the amazing show he is planning to hold.

The show
“During our fashion show we’re not only presenting a new collection. We are also launching the second edition of my own magazine Extrakak, a new song and a new video. Last year’s show was not your average fashion show, but for us it was a big success. We probably won’t be able to exceed that show, but we’re definitely trying to build a party just as big within the boundaries of the Amsterdam Fashion Week.”

Side-Projects
“Like always we’re working on many different projects at once, yet it’s those extra projects, like making a magazine, that give me extra energy and get me inspired. So, although it’s quite busy at the moment I love doing such a variety of things. Besides, I have seven interns which can help me out to get everything done in time.”

Stress
“I am pretty confident everything will work out right and in time, so I am not really stressed. The days of working nights to finish off the collection are behind us. Now we just start working a little harder and longer several weeks before the show, so there’s less pressure. Yet we probably will still  work the weekend before the show.”

Amsterdam
“We’re very excited to be part of the Amsterdam Fashion Week again. Especially since the ‘International’ has been left off and it’s more about the fashion than the event. I am also very glad Carlo is now on board. It’s thanks to Vodafone that we can participate. Otherwise we would probably not have showed during fashion week, since we’re trying to focus a bit more on the international market. Luckily Vodafone and us turned out to be great partners. They’re more than just the sponsor, so we’re already talking about doing more projects together.”

Best Part
“The great thing about holding a fashion show is experiencing the moment in which everything falls into place; it’s something magical every time. I also very much enjoy looking back on the photos and videos afterwards; it’s so rewarding. And we work with a fantastic team, great models, good make-up artist and very talented music producers so working with these people is already such a joy.”

Theme
“The theme of the new collection is called ‘1, 2, tree’ and has everything to do with the contrast between life in the city and the longing for nature. We try to combine those two in a visual and a conceptual way. For instance, we’ve created two monsters city versus nature. One is evil, impatient and arrogant, the other is sweet, loving and fragile. Those two metaphors will be visible in our new prints.”

Colors
“We worked with off-tones, black, deep-blue, but also with ‘non-colors’ like mustard and petrol. In the colors, as well as in the materials you will clearly see the contrast between city influences and nature. That’s all I can tell, the rest you will have to go and experience yourself!”

Photography Jeannette Huisman@Team Peter Stigter

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

January 19, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris

Viktor&Rolf’s Monsieur is a modern gentleman. As ever, he’s a hybrid of classic intellectual and ravishing style icon.  Viktor&Rolf’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was inspired by this gentleman at home – taking cues from luxurious interior design treatments and translating them to apparel. The enhanced shoulder structure of silhouettes gives subtle reference to Viktor&Rolf’s female Atomic Bomb Collection – in a masculine rendition.

Outerwear and suiting continue to be iconic staples in the Monsieur wardrobe. Suiting evolves for this gentleman with refined silk tuxedo jackets paired with nappa leather trousers – an unexpected edge to classical eveningwear.  Outerwear is rich offering a range set to olives, burgundy, burnt mauve and deep emerald greens. Pieces are composed of unconstructed overcoats in suri and alpaca wool, cotton nylon parkas sleek in fit, cashmere wool military trenches in olive and black framed with shaved beaver and jacket variations with unique shaved and printed shearling treatments. Knitwear is versatile and functional as lighter outerwear – a coral reversible zipper-front sweater in shearling and crepe wool is a highlight.

 

Pringle of Scotland Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

January 16, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Milan

Backstage designer Alistair Carr told the press he didn’t want to be afraid of the brand’s heritage. This lead to chunky tartan sweaters and lots of knit elements. The knitwear was worn with perfect pleated pants, jersey leggings and even a few pairs of leather motor pants popped up.

At Pringle too, the turtleneck made an appearance. Yet Carr let his models wear them underneath a thick knitted sweater instead of a shirt, like the other menswear brands did.

It was quite a pure and simple collection; some good basics were presented in the mix with the more outspoken pieces. The color palette might have been more coherent (it formed a combination of warm autumn shades (orange, red, camel) and cool winter tones (grey, blue, pink)), yet there were more than enough solid items for every man’s fall/winter wardrobe.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

January 15, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Milan

Despite the angry looks on their faces Missoni’s models looked nice and cosy as they entered the runway. Their tight fitted knitted jumpers and cardigans made you wanna introduce them to your grandma.

Checked pants, striped sweaters, argyle vests and jumpers with the fashion labels’ popular zigzag motif all passed by in a beautiful color palette of autumn shades.

We do feel Angela Missoni could have added a little more spice to the collection. Yet luckily some sportive parkas, body warmers and nylon jackets gave it a little more edge.

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

January 15, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Milan

Giorgio Armani is expecting a cold winter next year. Wrapped up in the thickest, stiffest belted leather, hidden under fedoras and swaddled in scarves his male models were sent down the runway.

The looks seemed influenced by different part of the world; forming a mix between something American and European influences with some sort of Nomad touch.

Armani’s tailoring skills again were impeccable and his eye for detailing was visible in each one of his dark (not a color in sight) looks.

The small leather accents, the right kind of ties, the slick glasses and the perfect hats gave the collection it’s coolness. And those small pointed necklace pockets (which reminded us a bit of the ones in the latest Givenchy s/s2012 womenswear collection) might just be the hit of next season.

John Varvatos Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

January 15, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Milan

Varvatos’ show was an ode to the city of New York. In a film, played as a background to the show, all NYC landmarks popped up, from the Chrysler Building tot the Statue of Liberty. The runway looked like a regular NYC street and felt raw and real at the same time (just like the clothes).

The models looked streetwise in clothes which had just the right amount of fashionable detailing. Washed of tones in leather were followed by woolen grey and black and scruffy streetstyles changed into a few slick evening looks.

We’re not sure yet about the enormous shearling collars, but those leather sleeves will be a definite hit.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

January 15, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Milan

Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta likes experiencing with materials, colors and effects. Well, the lean pristine suits he sent out this morning with optical effects in geometric color blocking were sure new and daring. But the effect was not always working out well. Later on the collection took a more cool and rock ‘n roll turn with knits and outerwear, like biker jackets and coats with graphic black rubber details.

In a season of mixed materials, Tomas Maier lightly applied tonal accents and contrasts, like glistening patches that looked like plastic tape. Fabrics were rich and warm, yet ultra light. Flocked velvet dripped from the V-neck of a black cashmere sweater; black cashmere-velvet pads capped the shoulders of short jackets and rubber details gave wool coats an urban touch.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

January 15, 2012 by  
Filed under Fashion, Menswear, Milan

The tiger stripes, leopard spots and croc details (Cavalli’s signature animal details) were still all there. Yet Daniele Cavalli presented them in a more subtle way than Roberto would probably have done.

The boys walking the show looked tough in their leather jackets, statement coats and capes. They rocked suit jackets with croc patterns, whole looks in feather print, tiger printed blouses and chevron patterned coats. One of them even got away with wearing a poncho at the very end of the show.

Besides the common grey and black, we see so much of every fall/winter collection, Daniele added a some looks in yellow, pink and blue/violet. A nice cheerful touch to a collection, which was already a clear stand out.

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