Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Designer Ralph Lauren looked at Russia for his fall 2013 collection, but also took some inspiration from Paris.

Lauren’s day looks drew from naval motifs, particularly an array of outerwear, from pea-coats to officer’s caots. These came in various proportions, sometimes cut away. Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory topper. He also showed knits and poetic shirts with billowing sleeves.

As for the pants, Lauren went for a classic sailor motif in skinny stovepipes. His other favorites were Cossack pants shown in burgundy and navy, sometimes pleated for extra volume.

Lauren broke up the mannish influence with lovely fluid dresses in deep-toned velvets and a beautiful series of evening-gowns.

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: an Englishman in New York

Here is a very clear and retail-friendly trend to spot. Classic English tailoring, menswear suiting materials and silhouettes referencing collegiate prep. Not that we have never seen this before. This is all about comfort and ease, not so much in the fit but more in mindset – looking good, no shock, no unease and absolutely no risk. Luckily there are some designers to give this look a twist. By adding a touch of futurism in bonded materials or a quiet but brave re-proportioning of the silhouette. But mostly this is about referencing the classic, the authentic and re-viving as well as re-living tradition in Peacoats and double-breasted coats and blazers combined with abbreviated minis.

Tommy Hilfiger stays close to its preppy roots with Prince of Wales checks and hound’s-tooth checks and plaids. Rag & Bone, adds modernity by re-proportioning and mixing materials and textures. Victoria Beckham layers her skin-tight and sexy dresses with mannish but nevertheless sensual coats. Then have a look at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Y3 and Thom Browne to see how they manage to merge these icons of tailoring with their personal signature.

Hail to history and now back to the future please!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: Going Green

As design goes green and the possibilities of green fashion are being reconsidered the title of this kick-off of New York Fashion Week might give us high hopes. Yet green in New York is the shade of a smart mixture of nature and artifice unified in disciplined outfits with military references and work wear details. Though stern in principle the outcome is ultra feminine and tailored showing a defined, sinuous silhouette. The green hues range from olive, army and loden to tender and marbled leave shades.

Lacoste shows sculpted leather dresses with diagonal zips. Where Richard Chai stages neat tailoring in stern uniforms finished with a glamorous polish.

Rag & Bone has chosen aviation as a starting point in a free interpretation of vintage flight suits and flight attendant uniforms. Urban nomads, dressed by Nicholas K, wear sheltering layers of intriguing textures in a myriad of greens, where the modern-day Amazones of Prabal Gurung show utilitarian city-combat styles. A sturdy look that is inspired by the Ukraine’s Asgarda tribes.

Hopefully this trend symbolizes ‘the green light’ towards excitement.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Junya Watanabe Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

It was patchwork-mania at Junya Watanabe. Loose fitting pants and wool jackets were given hobo treatment. As if Watanabe decided to hide up holes in his garments or decided to work with leftover fabrics from earlier collections. Unshaved long haired models fit the collection, wearing bowler hats on the go. Their looks had a certain British twist, that came in the form of grey pinstripe (a huge menswear trend) and tartan checked fabrics. A black and grey coat mixed with a striped pair of legging looked more scruffier due to two being combined. Jackets and body warmers worn on top of coats seemed too small, because the styling. Yet a toggle coat, a trench coat and a jacket with red shaded tartan pockets did look great. Perhaps, if we could see some of the items styled differently we would appreciate them even more.

Dries van Noten Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Dries Van Noten opened with upcoming season’s hit item; a robe-like jacket with foulard prints in rich colors. And that sure wasn’t the only success item in this Dries collection. Perfectly dressed, relaxed models sported studded leather pants that slightly contrasted with the easy breezy silk printed pajama-like blouses. Loose fits, fringes and seventies shades gave the collection a hippie chic kind of feeling. Yet quilted bomber jackets and biker jacket details kept it modern. Etro-style paisley prints perfectly worked with a variation of tweeds and checks. It was one of those collection that just feel right, beginning to end. No trying to hard, just comfortable, beautifully made menswear pieces with the right amount of edge to keep us interested.

Rick Owens Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

All the right ingredients for the perfect Rick Owens cake were in the mix today. His signature black and white color palette, his sleeveless tops, the use of leather, the belted jackets and the long tops. But we were surprised too. By the models big hair to begin with, not to mention their snow proof Ugg like boots. Those tank tops will need a few extra layers, yet the big collars, the hoodies and the oversized gloves will keep the toned Rick Owens man warm all throughout next winter.

Walter van Beirendonck Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

We’e not sure how the male models felt afterwards, but the van Beirendonck show sure put us in a good mood. The Belgium designer showed some pretty street chic on trend quilted pants, followed by black leather, busy printed, XXL and argyle ones. And it was not just those pants that made us smile. Walter created suit jackets, vests and knitted sweater in the same style. All very colorful with a shiny disco twist. Checked bathrobe like coats got metallic fringes as extra eye catchers; the same kind of colored metallic that was used for the shoes, mouth and earpieces. A theatrical collection like you could expect from a Opéra Garnier costume designer.

Carven Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Standing fully dressed in a sober decorated office Carven’s guys seemed ready for work. Yet their workspace might have had a classic look and feel, the clothes were classic with a twist. Pleated pants were too short (just over the knee) revealing the models socks. Suit jackets were duo colored and colorful knitwear patterns were introduced. Models wore crazy knitted headgear and we wouldn’t describe the two printed camouflage coats as classic either. It looked like fun though. Most of the designs looked classy (not classic). And it might take a while before working men will strut around the office in those turquoise 5/6 pants, but the again there’s always casual Fridays. A fine debut collection for Guillaume Henry; changing men’s wardrobes step by step.

Raf Simons Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Not distracted by his new job at Dior, Raf stayed true to his personal signature today by presenting an edgy yet playful selection of menswear looks. Sporting some crazy anime styled hair Simons’ men pulled off outspoken pieces like shiny satin pants, fully pattern vests and bright colored blouses with extremely pointy and askew (like the ones at Prada) collars. All the layering of the designs made the looks even more interesting. Turtle necks were worn with blouses, vests or sweaters, followed by suit jackets with horizontal bands in the front. Lots to like. And guess what? This season’s stripes are a Simons trend for next year too.