Jeremy Scott Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

The rainbow spectacle Jeremy Scott presented yesterday looked back to the nineties, and at moments to the seventies, and maybe further away.  There were sweat suits, stretch dresses, and leggings printed with computer screen shots and instant-message emoticons. “We use them to communicate our emotions,” Scott explained to the press. “I’m angry, I’m happy, I’m horny, I feel kind of flirty. That’s now a legitimate answer.”

Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

The fall collection of Philosophy di Alberta Ferreti was an ode to the young professional which resulted in  a strong collection of polished, professional clothes, layered with feminine, modern touches. Crisp white power suits cinched at the waist, formfitting white dresses in a slightly stricter silhouette and chic coats. That, along with several other pieces, were perfectly suited for a boardroom meeting. For high-glamour moments, she suggested several metallic and PVC dresses.

Preen Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi were inspired by Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations, Victorian-era scrapbooks and abstract expressionists. The result was a cool collection, with a heavy use of prints, texture and color on flirty tops and skirts paired with two-tone tailored separates and knitted sweaters.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Narciso Rodriguez used his strong construction skills, layering together different colors and fabrics for pieces with a Japanese feel, like the draped kimono effect on an orange silk top with a deep red skirt that was wrapped. Sometimes it seemed like two dresses were layered into one. His new accessories collection, which made its debut on the runway, was a strong addition and featured color-blocked gloves and functional handbags in exotic skins and suede.

Micheal Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Michael Kors chose a rustic-luxe cabin in the woods in wintertime as his location, what collection will fit there we all can guess.  Buffalo checks and fox fur. His trick, as always, was to filter it all through his glamorous yet practical lens. Manhattan meets Aspen, besides lots of fur women who prefer their outerwear on the tamer side Kors, showed tartan chesterfields and striped blanket ponchos with deep fringe.

Daywear was all about the mix: an almost conservative midi-length skirt paired with a knit lace tank bustier, or black leather adding edge to a gray plaid dress. Cocktail hour continued to match country with city—like the ivory fisherman sweater and the gold lace skirt.

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

There was a youthful feeling in the collection of Oscar de la Renta. Still precious , but most of the clothes were short, full-skirted silhouettes; in baby-pink and powder blue;  ribbons in the models hair. But it was the photo prints of jewels that gave this show its younger streak.
Of course De la rente presented  skirtsuits and twinsets, but they weren’t the focus. Embellishment was all around, even by day. Ladylike suits came in gold lace jacquard and silvery metallic tweed. Pants looked sporty, sometimes tucked into boots dripping with fur. The playful mood continued into evening, where the emphasis was on cocktail dresses.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

For his second line Marc by Marc Jacobs, the designer mixed milirairy influences with a youthful style. Lot of dresses, from a red satin onewith purple appliqués and a gathered waist  to  smock dresses. Two-tone A-line pleated skirts reminded of schoolgirls. Knits were slouchy and cosy, and jackets ranged from the fuzzy double-breasted coat to more linear, car coats to parkas with a furry hood.

Silhouettes were practical and cool, nothing overly trendy, just foundation pieces for a smart looking wardrobe.

 

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

This season the Mulleavy-sisters of Rodarte turned to Australia and its natives for inspiration. The result was a very feminin collection, with references to the red-earth of this continent, Aboriginal art, sheep and British heritage like fishermens coats and sweaters. There were leather jackets lined with shearling, chunky, cropped  sweaters, and a rust-colored skirt-suit. Native influences peeked through in some of their dresses, like a floor-length dress with  ruffles that mixed an aboriginal print with a lace collar.  Some dresses had a boxier, relaxed cut with sloped shoulders, dolman sleeves, and exaggeratedly ladylike Victorian collars, while others in black and white leather were lean and strong.

New were  the accessories, including star brooches buried in the models’ hair, and the debut of their own shoes, many with buckles and straps and lucite heels filled with sand.

 

Y-3 Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 looked tougher than usual. His inspiration came from  the nomadic cultures of Central Asia, and the collection was a mixture of ethnic pieces (capes, ponchos and harem pants) and Americana (parkas, hooded vests and long, striped pullovers) shown in brights and a gray-to-black palette.

Carolina Herrera Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Navy and black, a strong combination, opened the show of  Carolina Herrera yesterday. It was a beautiful display of regal elegance.  The first looks came in shades of deep indigo with black accents. Fabrics, such as knits with feather and fur details, blurred the line between traditional day- and eveningwear, and had a modern touch. The second part of show was lighter and less subtle, with heavy handed abstract prints by artist Joe Duke.

 

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