DKNY Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

After Donna Karan went out with a bang last season fresh faces at the DKNY designer’s desk Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne took over. Yesterday they presented their first collection for the brand inspired by what is perhaps Donna Karan’s most iconic fashion piece: the pinstripe power suit. They kept things very clean and simple, which gave the DKNY girl a super sophisticated and modern update. In a monochrome palette (we spotted just two touches of blue at the end of the show) the designers introduced a boxy blazer (worn by Maartje Verhoef) as a dress, a pinstriped pencil skirt matched with a basic white Tee and the most plain white playsuit. Simple, plain, elementary, yet never dull. Chow and Osborne made sure of that by sending out multiple variations of that particular power suit. The jackets double breasted and roomy. The dresses layered and asymmetric. Sheer T-shirts slowly transformed into a selection of sheer midi finale dresses. Loose hanging straps and chic simple clutches were the only accessories of the show. Were there enough new elements to give DKNY it’s own identity without the label’s founder on board? We’re not sure yet. But this was a show stuffed with youthful, commercial looks any NYC-girl would want to wear. No doubt about it. And while her autobiography hits stores this week Donna Karan herself approved of this collection by attending from her front row seat. New beginnings just had a great start.

Donna Karan steps down, let’s recap DKI

Donna Karan taking her final catwalk bow at her autumn/winter 2015 show

Donna Karan is stepping down as the head designer of her eponymous label Donna Karan International. The 66-year-old, who co-founded (with her late husband Stephan Weiss) the company in 1984 that now includes such famous brands as Donna Karan New York and DKNY, has decided to invest more time in her independently owned lifestyle brand Urban Zen. She will however stay active as a close advisor to the company DKI (Donna Karan International) that is now looking for a new designer.

Over the past three decades, Donna Karan has inspired women around the world to embrace their power and sensuality. ‘When she started her collection in 1985 she set out to simply make clothes for her and her friends’, the company stated this week. Yet after her launch in 1984 Donna Karan quickly made a name for herself. One year later she introduced her first Seven Easy Pieces collection. Fashion items every woman should own, like a plain pair of trousers, a body suit, a woollen sweater, a leather jacket, an evening dress. Donna Karan wanted to dress women in comfort and liberate them from the eighties power suits. She made New York uptown dressing her signature and therefore used yellow cabs as backdrops and in her commercials. She introduced DKNY for a younger customer with her daughter Gaby in mind. Donna Karan is known for her red evening gowns too, dressing stars like Jennifer Lopez, Penelope Cruz and, most recently, face of the brand Rita Ora.

Fun facts
Donna Karan:
was born into fashion in 1948 to a model mother, who worked on Seventh Avenue.
skipped school in 1969 only to come back and get her bachelor’s degree in 1986
invented “the body” – one of the most practical eighties items
once broke both knees skiing
is a Libra and claims she can’t make decisions
launched a special Ramadan collection for her Middle-Eastern customers

“LVMH and I have made this decision after much soul-searching. I have arrived at a point in my life where I need to spend more time to pursue my Urban Zen commitment to its fullest potential and follow my vision of philanthropy and commerce with a focus on health care, education and preservation of cultures. After considering the right time to take this step for several years, I feel confident that DKI has a bright future and a strong team in place”, Karan said in a statement.

There will be no spring/summer 2016 catwalk show at New York Fashion Week this September while DKI is looking for a replacement for Karan.

The end of an era, but the future is bright. Now let’s take a look back at some of the highlights of her twenty years of fashion design for both DKNY and Donna Karan with our image gallery below.

 

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York SS2015

‘New York Nation’ was the theme of DKNY’s bold spring collection, which aimed to celebrate the city’s color, culture and creativity. Donna Karan translated the idea via bright hues, several graphically rendered like a kaleidoscope on oversize silhouettes. Those included the striking red-and-blue V-neck tunic over a full skirt with a soft flounce. The subtler colors achieved more effect, such as the crisp mint-green parka shown with a striped T-shirt and a miniskirt. It still captured the energy of Gotham, but with just the right control.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

For fall Donna Karan and her design team decided to celebrate the New Yorks diversity, making that point clear with the show’s production. It started with a video featuring real-life New Yorkers — all young and edgy and in varying ethnicities — waxing poetic about the city.

Then came the runway show, cast with a mix of models and locals including girl-about-town Hannah Bronfman, nightlife hostess Melissa Burns and DJ Chelsea Leyland. As for the clothes, they too were diverse, from sporty to utilitarian to feminine. Karan mixed functional with whimsical — a quilted parka coat with a long-hair shearling hood over a glittery sequined skirt; an elegant burgundy fur vest with a navy duffle coat and wrap skirt.

It ended with flashes of hot pink worked on pieces including a lace jacket and slipdress.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

There was a party energy in the air at the DKNY Spring runway show, which officially marked the label’s 25th anniversary. Donna Karan and company took the occasion to remake some of the line’s greatest hits, ranging from streetwear staples like sporty parkas, bodysuits, and track pants—all plastered with bold DKNY logos—to the slinky, low-backed “naked dress”. The collection swiftly transitioned through a dozen or so distinct moments, including a series of cool bandana-printed looks, pastel-colored tailoring, viagra propranodol and fit-and-flare neoprene frocks. Rita Ora, the current face of DKNY, ended things on a high note by dancing down the runway.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

The DKNY Fall collection presented several of the label’s iconic items, including an oversize quilted bomber. It once represented “street style”  when the term actually implied a little grit. Urban outfitting was the focus this season. Oversized parkas and sweatshirts were featured, as well as fun animal prints.  Karan also added large rounded shoulders to her silhouettes, particularly on structured mini-dresses and tops that combined multiple fabrics including Neoprene.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The DKNY-collection was all the way about a New York vibe. From a rolled-down  jumpsuit tied around the waist with a silk button-up to a coated-cotton blazer paired with distressed denim Bermuda shorts. Other items made an impact, too. Leather-trim circle skirts cut from spongy coated mesh, oversize color-blocked car coats, and neoprene-jersey racer back gowns balanced femininity with urban athleticism.

Meanwhile, accessories including baseball caps, leather knapsacks, fanny packs, and wedge sneakers played a key role in putting the NY-vibe back.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

It looks like New York-based designers are preparing themselves for a cold and strong winter regarding the major outerwear focus most collections have.  At times and temperatures like this, a coat is your outfit — just look at all the fashion-people bundled up along the runway.

There were endless excellent choices on offer for next season at DKNY, with a theme called New York Mods. Donna Karan did those coats tailored and graphic, like the black styles with a bold white panel across the chest, adding a little edge with leather sleeves. Toward the end there were knit puffers and furs. It was all sharp and suitable for everyday use. Same goes for what was worn underneath. Tough menswear in sharp, colorblocked tailoring mixed up with motorcycle jackets. Karan worked up chunky knits with a preppy tomboyish flare: bright cardigan dresses and stripey angora sweaters were worn with tailored trousers, tapered and flared. It was a cool and right on time collection.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

The DKNY collection had the perfect summer feeling to it. The fresh-faced models walking the show looked happy, playful and very girly, all aspects you’re looking for in summer.

Donna Karan obviously went for a commercial collection this time. All of her design, in shades of turquoise, beige and pink, seemed wearable and will be easy to mix and match into any woman’s wardrobe.

The short ruffled skirts, the boyfriend jackets with the tucked up sleeves, the easy going pants, the bathing suits and the floral printed dresses were items almost any young woman would love to wear.

Then again the items were not very renewing or distinctive. They could just as well be hanging in a ZARA store.

Yet Donna Karan gave the items her own twist by adding bright red heels, black bows (around the models’ waists) and small scarves (around their necks). In combination with the red lips and tidy buns all models looked incredibly sexy. So distinctive or not, these clothes will surely sell fast next year.

Pictures of this show will follow soon.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

For her winter collection Donna Karan dressed her models like college girls. Not your average ones, but well-dressed college girls from the sixties, complete with side-swept ponytail and mini skirts.

The great thing about the collection was the cohesiveness of it. Color-blocked outfits and autumn hues could be seen throughout the whole show. And Donna Karan had picked all the right colors to combine together.

Looking at the clothes we could only imagine how nice it would be to wear them. The woollen sweaters looked ultra-soft, the woollen coats seemed nice and warm and the pleated trousers appeared super comfy. Besides none of the clothes were too tight or revealed to much skin.

The layering looked just lovely and some sequins added a hint of glamor to a few outfits.

So, we fully embrace Donna Karan’s new collection, yet we have three remarks to make:

1. All models should have worn leggings or panties underneath their mini-skirts
2. The boyfriend blazer from the first look wasn’t very flattering
3. Those woollen hats…..

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