Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2014

After being born in Milan in 1986 and raised in Paris Costume National this week returned to it’s roots after 23 years. Back home where the brand’s Italian tailoring can fully revive again. Held in a ‘under construction’ building in Italy’s fashion capital the theme was clear. For spring designer Ennio Capase viagra cialis online focused on deconstruction, calling his collection De-Construct-Re-Construct. “I constructed this collection by freely assembling and reassembling patterns to give each piece a sense of ease”, Capase stated in his show notes. That translated to sharply tailored, minimalistic creations, mostly monochrome, but with a hint of neon, metallic, beige and blue. Models appeared powerful and modern in the asymmetrical dresses, skirts, jackets and tops. Sleeves jackets were left open to reveal the middle part of the models’ chest, sheer tops revealed boobs and bellies and skirts were given a super high slit. Yet even with all this ‘nudity’ the collection remained modest and chic. Probably thanks to some of that Parisian heritage..

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Costume National Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

Today Ennio Capase almost sent out a completely black colored collection. But, proving the power of black in fashion, there was more than enough to look at. Capase paired tough with chic by mixing leather pants with woolen coats and by giving other coats extra biker details, like multiple zippers and strong leather collars and panels. Extremely tailored jackets and classic hats added to that contrast. Touches of white and blue cheered up the collection, but it didn’t change the long haired models’ bad-ass mood. They were perfectly dressed rock ’n rollers on a mission.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

A new kind of minimalism was Ennio Capasa’s starting point for Costume National SS2013. With so many brands focusing on minimalism the designer decided to bring something different to the table; minimalism with more technique, elegance and more of a couture feeling. His creations indeed were minimalism with a twist. A twist mostly formed by a print of an aloe leaf and bird wing snipped with scissors (even on a pair on sunglasses!). Capasa experienced with color too; mixing unlikely shades as red and fuchsia, but also navy and black together in a series of tuxedo looks. Matador hats, leather clutch bags and unexpected asymmetrical details in almost every piece of fabric further strengthened the collection. One thing’s for certain CN’s minimalism was unlike any other kind we’ve seen the last couple of weeks.

 

Costume National Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2013

Utilitarian style dominated  at Costume National. Sticking to the brand’s signature urban and punk vibe, Ennio Capasa played with volumes and layers resulting into a young and sophisticated collection.
The sharp look of a sleeveless leather safari jacket was softened by fluid baggy pants. There were also  deconstructed tailored suits with loose shoulders.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Yes it was a dark collection, but it was an elegant kind of dark. So instead of studded rough leather designer Ennio Capasa created gracefully cut leather pieces, that formed rich details on skirts, coats and pants. And not only the leather was in perfect ‘shape’; every single item in the show was perfection. We would love to get our hands on those majestic coats, powerful pleated pants and minimalistic dresses. The only few items that were a bit off were a series of see through turtle necks, with tape on them to cover the models nipples. The rest of the collection proved Capasa is classier than that and a more subtle kind of sheerness suits him and his Costume National women way better.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Bohemians were the characters Ennio Capasa of Costume National was thinking about, as an antidote to a materialistic direction that he sees society taking. Capasa called his collection a remix of his dark roots and all his experiences over the years.  There were  space-age boots,  punky mohairs, and  teddy-boy proportions, all elements we’ve seen before in Capasa’s collections – which point towards his passion for British youth cults.

C’N’C’ Costume National Catwalk Milan SS2012

The perfect mix of casual wear and sportswear, that’s how you’d describe the new C’N’C’ collection. It’s the right timing for the label, since sporty influences are a big trend for next spring.

And C’N’C’ used the theme beautifully in it’s new collection. Colors changed subtly during the show; from emerald green to white, yellow, nude, pink and black. Leather pants were mixed with cool tops and hoodies, all in one shade. Pants, which showed just a little bit of ankle were styled with short leather jackets. Blouses and tops made of sheer fabrics were worn over bandeau tops.

One by one outfits which you can easily work into your wardrobe and all looks in which you can do a good workout as well. That is, if you change the brogues and wedges into sneakers. Let’s just hit the gym!

 

 

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

It was a very minimalistic collection we saw today at Costume National. Mainly in black, but also mixed with light blue, yellow and red.

Please enjoy the pictures for now. We will post our review later.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Costume National’s designer Ennio Capasa tried to mix traditional tailoring and fabric/construction research with a rebellious core. The result was less surprising as it sounds, because this is what he does every season. Experimenting with clean cuts, jackets without seams assembled by laser technique and a synthesis between formal and sportswear. Of course in signature black, with hints of res, royal blue, dark green and salmon for sweaters in soft mohair.

What I liked the most were the coats and jackets made of wool with leather sleeves, or made of fabric with knitted sleeves. But in the end it was a reset of ideas. Daring was a knitted tuxedo. And this season Capasa finally got rid of all the wite shirts and ties. In the name of a creative rebellion.

C’N’C Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011.

Since the C’N’C fashion show was held outside, at the Piazza Duomo thousands of people could have the joy of watching a live fashion show. But before the models came on there was music and there were dancers as part of the Milano Loves Fashion concept.

For spring 2011 Ennio Capasa presented womenswear and a few menswear looks. He chose white and gray as his main colors, but towards the end he added nudes and brights like yellow, blue and red.

His maxi dresses, tunics and bandeau tops looked easy going and elegant, but didn’t make our fashion hearts beat faster. Yet it was a good collection and it’s just great that so many people could enjoy it in the centre of Milan.

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