Klavers van Engelen Collection FW2011
March 6, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris, Presentations, womenswear
For coming fall Niels Klavers and Astrid van Engelen, the Dutch designers behind Klavers van Engelen, continued their search for designing as minimal as possible. They still want to create maximum effect wit less and less interventions.
The overall look is that of a beautiful piece of fabric thrown on the body by a gentle breeze. Adding knitwear to the Klavers van Engelen line for the first time, in downy and weightless mohair, as well as a deep dyed curly goat fur, they further explored their signature purist design principles.
Two different rectangular pieces of fabric sandwich the body to make a top or dress, a mohair knit in front and a washed silk for the much shorter back. Complexity and ease merge in dresses and trousers with large integrated square shaped shawls that can be worn loose over the shoulder or tied around the neck creating a sophisticated draped top. Graphic effects were created by using different fabrics and colors, and the designers also tried to change the view on their creations, the front and back of some dressed were different in color, fit and fabric.
The colour palette starts with the Klavers van Engelen signature ‘flame’ orange and ends in a solid silver grey. Inspired by Mark Rothko’s great colorfield paintings juxtaposing precious shades such as daffodil, mustard, cerise, grape, loganberry, bordeaux, bronze, a wonderful deep fawn, chocolate, latte and just a touch of black creates a mesmerizing effect.
Again the design-duo made a collection that looked simply beautiful from the outside, as if it was created accidentally. But take a closer look and you’ll see true designs that will keep surprising you by every movement.
Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011/2012
February 17, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, New York, womenswear
It seems like every fashion brand is focusing more and more on Asia. Fashion shows are held in Shanghai, extra shops are opened in Tokyo and collections have all kinds of Eastern references. Last season this was the case at Louis Vuitton and for next winter it’s Ralph Lauren who’s aiming at this new market.
Ralph Lauren showed a Oriental inspired autumn collection full of Chinese dragon patterns and black silk and colorful embroideries. His designs were long and sleek, his fabrics shiny and luxurious. The ‘China Girl’ cover which came out of the speakers completed our Oriental mood.
Besides the Asian touch all looks also had the Ralph Lauren appeal. The high waisted pants, the leather jackets, fur details and tuxedo’s all still breathed the classic, sophisticated style of the all American designer.
The collection clearly was Ralph Lauren’s interpretation of China. We’re curious if Asian women are really looking forward to wearing those dragon printed dresses (maybe a bit to literal?), but it was a fun show to watch.
Anna Sui Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011/2012
February 17, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, New York, womenswear
Anna Sui’s collection was inspired by Russian ballet, but don’t expect tutu’s and tule. No, Anna’s ballet girl had more of a rock side, working tough black and white looks.
The show was opened by three models appearing on the runway simultaneously. They wore playful black and white looks with checks, pied de poule and graphic prints.
Then the collection got more colorful as warm shaded clothes with metallic accents appeared. Like Marc Jacobs Sui also introduced several polka dot looks, so we might be seeing a lot more of those next winter. Models wore crazy hats (we saw Lindsay Wixon with a cat head on) and obvious wigs.
Towards the end of the show the collection became more luxurious showing more embellishments and layering, all matched with Sui’s wonderful leg wear. Several hippie looks in white lace formed a nice contradiction with some of the black rock and roll dresses.
Backstage Anna told the press she wanted to keep it simple this season, but of course Anna’s way of simple is still quite over the top. That means a lot of details to look at and something to like for almost anybody.
H&M launches eco-fabulous Conscious Collection
February 3, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, womenswear
This spring H&M will launch yet another eco friendly fashion collection. The Consicous Collection, which will hit the stores on the 14th of April, is meant for women, men and children and looks amazing.
With lots of whites and shades of nude, embroideries, ruffles and drapings the collection for women is ultra-romantic. And though the designs are made from organic cotton and recycled polyester, there’s no sign of the geeky image sustainability might have. We loved the maxi skirt, the shorts and the beautiful embroidered dresses!
With Natasha Poly as the face of this collection (in the commercial for the sustainable Garden collection of last year we saw her with blond hair) H&M couldn’t have picked a better spokesperson.
Here are some snapshots of the Conscious Collection…
Hunkemöller Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam
January 30, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Amsterdam, Fashion, Featured Items, womenswear
On the last evening of the Amsterdam International Fashion Week lingerielabel Hunkemöller held a show named ‘It’s a women’s world and we love it’ in the Zuiveringshal at the Westergasterrein. For it’s brand new collection Hunkemöller was inspired by Hollywoodstars of the thirties and forties, like Marlene Dietrich, Josephine Baker.
Models with daring pink wigs (which had been cut and steamed for hours backstage) walked the runway in the most diverse lingerie looks.
We saw bras, strings and high waisted knickers in nudes, orange, green, purple, petrol, deep blue and black. Combined with lace, strass-details, bows, feathers and garters they made up for a very feminine and sexy look.
The collection was divided into four separate themes; Hollywood Glamour, Hot Cognac, Excentric Luxury and Mysterious Black, each with it’s own inspiration, colors and style. All looks were finished off by eye catching jewelry and accessories.
During the grande finale a model (the contemporary muse of Hunkemoller) wearing a brown slip dress, a shoulder- and an enormous head piece appeared on the runway. She stood on top of some stairs as all models walked their final round on the catwalk.
A great show. Adele’s Rolling in the Deep is still in our heads…
NŌN by KIM Presentation FW2011
January 26, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Featured Items
Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: Jan Taminiau FW2011
January 24, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items
For upcoming Amsterdam International Fashion Week designer Jan Taminiau has the honor of showing during the opening soiree. And while two designers usually show during this evening, Jan is doing it alone, presenting two different collections.
Jan sure has been busy the last couple of weeks designing not only for his brand new Haute Couture collection, but also for his Demi couture collection. Yet for Jan having to coordinate two different collections at once, is not bad at all. ‘It just feels like I can now ‘play’ more, cause I now get the make twice the amount of designs. It’s like synchrone dancing, since I’m making the same progress with both collections’, he said.
Demi Couture – Seperates
Jan will open the Amsterdam Fashion Week with his Demi Couture collection, a slightly less pricey collection, for which he focused more on his customer. ‘The Demi Couture collection is not very different from the Haute Couture collection. Yet if a costumer would want an item from the Demi Couture collection they would only need one appointment with us, compared to five appointments for a design of our Haute Couture collection’, Jan explains.
The Demi Couture collection is, like the Haute Couture collection, not based on a certain season. Jan: ‘My customers travel to the sun when it’s winter and go skiing in the summer, so I never really work with seasons.’
Jan used the word ‘demi’ (this means ‘half’ in French) as a joke in his collection too. He would not tell us exactly what he did, but we guess certain designs will seem like they’re just one half of an item.
Jan: ‘The collection will be feminine, sexy and tough and you’ll see soft tones like gold, beige, off white, soft green and light pink’
Haute Couture – Irradiance
Jan’s Haute Couture collection is called irradiance (it’s about inner glow) and is inspired by hiding and being visible. ‘It’s based on a certain feeling you might have right before you enter a stage; you want to go on stage, but you’re also afraid and want to hide. You want to take that moment, yet you are hesitating. I always compare it to the moment you, as a child, have to give a presentation in front of the whole class; you have to do it, but you’d rather disappear. It’s about that vulnerable, yet positive balance’, Jan explained.
Jan: ‘I loved making this collection, cause there were no rules or restrictions, since this Haute Couture collection doesn’t necessarily have to be about clothes or wearablity.’
All materials for the collection were woven in the Textielmuseum in Tilburg and a lot of the details of the clothes were made by hand. The silhouette, as well as the colors of the collection are typical for Jan Taminiau: ‘You’ll see a lot of grey, silver, black and white and the music of the show will be moody.’
Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: Sage & Ivy FW2011
January 22, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items
The young fashion label Sage & Ivy will not be part of the official Amsterdam Fashion Week schedule, yet it’s show on the 28th of January is definitely a must-see. Designer for Sage & Ivy Alexia van Engelen chose to give her fashion show at the Felix Meritus center in Amsterdam. ‘I really wanted the show area to contribute to the feeling of my collection. I only have about ten minutes to explain to everyone what I’ve been working on for half a year, so I want everything to be in line with what I have to say.’
Alexia used St. Petersburg as an inspiration for her new winter collection. ‘You’ll see looks inspired by Russian costumes and folklore. I played with volume and alternated different materials and colors’, Alexia explained.
In the collection light colors like white, soft grey, lavender grey, moss green are used as well as shades of black, silver and gold. Alexia came up with some great outerwear for winter like a cape and a coat of faux fur and mohair. ‘We also used stretch satin and a tweed with threads of gold. Most items are great for winter, but on some of the designs you might wanna put an extra cardigans’, she says.
As well as all of the designs Alexia gave the collection. The words ‘My Beating Heart’ therefore will be visible in different ways throughout the collection. ‘I chose this name, because for this collection I stayed very true to my heart; I listened to myself. I used the name My Beating Heart on a body of gauze, on the sleeve of a sweater and on a belt’, Alexia says.
The collection will exist of 19 looks, which will all be accessorized by some amazing vintage jewelery Alexia got to borrow from someone in her family. ‘That lady had tons of great jewelry and was very cosmopolitan; the jewelry will really add something special to the looks in the show.’
Alexia’s favorite look is one of the three evening dresses of the collection, called Anastasia: ‘It’s a dress made from organza with a baroque fit. The sleeves and the skirt have a lot of volume and the body is very tight.’
A trend Alexia predicts for next fall is a mix of light, transparent fabrics, heavy knitwear and rich fabrics like jacquard.
The music of the Sage & Ivy show will be a clash between an old song from the band Black Cat and a new one, Runaway from Kanye West. We’re looking forward to hearing that mix and seeing the collection. Everything already looks promising.
Photograpy: Jon Loek @ Team Peter Stigter
Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: Marloes Blaas FW2011
January 20, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items
In less than a week the Amsterdam International Fashion Week will start. So to get you in the right mood for all the great Dutch fashion you’re going to see next week, we will present you some previews of the collections of several Dutch designers. Today we tell you everything about the new collection of Marloes Blaas, which she will show on Friday the 28th of January. After having showed in the Machinegebouw last year Marloes is now showing in the bigger space, Zuiveringshal West.
For her fall/winter collection Marloes Blaas was inspired by the forties. She looked at the women working in factories (such as Rosie de Riveter), wanting to be independent. ‘Those women in the forties had to work really hard, to rebuild their country but also their families. Therefore I chose those strong women as my inspiration’, Marloes told us.
Marloes’ collection will exist of 20 different looks. ‘The collection starts with the aftermath of the War. You’ll see designs made of army tents and heavy knitwear. Then the collection turns from heavy to more feminine. You, for instance, see waist skirts. The show will end with some light, airy clothing’, she says.
Because people in the forties didn’t have a lot of money, they recycled their materials and knitted a lot of the clothes themselves. Marloes copied that example and also used old materials for her new designs. ‘I made a cape of army tents and I used old maps, printed on silk, as a fabric too. I’m lucky to have a friend who’s family business is specialized in items from the second world war. He is always on the look for objects and materials I might be able to use in my collections.’
In line with Marloes’ inspiration for the collection the colors will not be very bright. Marloes: ‘I worked a lot with army green and earthly colors, yet I also added shades of ocher, red and purple. Towards the end I show some white, some cream and a very light shaded type of denim. The old map is one of my prints and I added a slanting check print too.’
Overall the collection will definitely be very wintery. Fabrics will be heavy and many looks will be layered. Real winter-items in the collection will be leather overalls, pants and jackets. Marloes: ‘My favorite look is a cape with many different knitted parts and a collar made of army tent pieces.’
Marloes predicts: ‘Next year’s musthaves will be: knitted cardigans and clothes made from leather. I used a lot of leather in my collection as well.’
Marloes is almost finished with her collection (models & shoes for the show are all taken care of) and together with her boyfriend she’s working on the music for the show. We’re already fond of the story behind her collection, so we can’t wait to see what it will eventually look like.
Photographer: Jeannette Huisman@Team Peter Stigter
Amsterdam International Fashion Week Preview: Bas Kosters FW2011
January 19, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items
We have one week to go till the Amsterdam International Fashion Week starts. So to get you in the right mood for all the great Dutch fashion you’re going to see next week, we will present you some previews of the collections of several Dutch designers. We kick off with rebel designer Bas Kosters, who will show on Thursday evening, the 27th of January.
Bas Kosters has had a lot on his mind these past weeks. Besides putting his collection together he is busy with some other projects as well, including a new commercial job, which we will hear more about soon. Yet despite the rush Bas is pretty calm: ‘The days I was finishing my collections in the middle of the night are in the past. Now I make sure I rest when I need to, otherwise things get out of control. And there’s really no need in wearing yourself out, cause at the day of the show you still have to be presentable (you have to talk to the press and you’ll get photographed).’
And Bas is right on schedule, cause the biggest part of the collection, inspired by mutants, is done. For those of you who’ve seen Bas’ show at the Dutch Fashion Awards, this – indeed – is the same collection, yet expanded. ‘The collection we’re going to show during the AIFW is more prêt-à-porter. For the Dutch Fashion Awards we were in hurry, we finished the collection (of 15 items) in three weeks. This time everything is far more balanced. Plus, we’ve added five menswear looks.’
According to Bas this collection is very different from what we’ve seen before. ‘The last couple of collections were very dark, this time we brought back the color. We also used some new techniques. For instance, we used special painting techniques and we used screen prints and digital prints.’
Bas continues: ‘The collection will also be more refined and there will be more shape in the designs. My favorite look is one of the outfits from the finale. It’s a dress made from silk pastel strips and when the model walks in it, it moves beautifully.’
Like almost everything Bas works on next week’s show will definitely not be your average fashion show. He promises a great spectacle and we sure can’t wait to see what he’s got in stores for us…
Photographer: Jeannette Huisman@Team Peter Stigter
