Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Where was Dior taking us, other than a fashion show? The grandiose set made us feel like we were about to step in a huge time machine. The big mirroring backdrop and a voice repeating “Time, time, time” on the soundtrack were only endorsing this. And if there’s only one thing that’s more involved with tim(e)ing, it must be fashion. It got us speculating with our neighbours. But what got us even more speculating was: what to expect from a show without primary creative director? At least, it didn’t stop the celebs from coming. And social media was still overflowing with Dior hashtags. Sure, there was no guessing whether this was still Dior, but it was missing the big bang. It’s jaw-dropping effect, it’s I-want-it-all and I-want-it-now- effect.

This collection felt younger and less extravaganza than previous ones. We saw the familiair bar jackets, off-the-shoulder bustier tops being layered over dresses, contrast of patterns of differing fabrics, contrasting furs as a collar, knee-length blossoming skirts, lots of black suiting, high-waisted pencil skirts and softer jackets. Not to mention those pointy shoes, and we can’t deny we felt our heart skip a beat when that red-orange coat came along. Dior showed us once more their serious atelier skills and it’s dedication to the house aesthetics, but we couldn’t help but wonder what’s the next step they’ll take in time. Like Anna Wintour said: fashion is always about looking forward and Dior need’s someone to direct this time machine.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

For fall, Raf Simons wanted to explore the more sexual side of the Dior-woman by taking her natural urges out of the garden, to a place where more primal instincts dominate: the animal world. The show’s sexual content proved more discreet than Simons’ idea would suggest. The show opened with a pair of short black cutaway dresses with colorful facings and pointy metal mesh collars. Both were worn with second-skin Lucite-heel boots in a blown-up, blue-and-red animal pattern. Such abstracted skin motifs would prove a recurring theme, two or three thick, wavy stripes undulating across a coat or making a splash on a swingy minidress, and, several times, on flashy bodysuits. Often they formed the underpinnings for an impressive lineup of coats.
Tweeds from his Simons’ collaboration with the fabric firm Kvadrat and other substantive materials, including multitone pastel furs, were a core of the collection. A woman in touch with her masculine side looks sexy. Simons dressed her with chic authority in pantsuits with trim, double-breasted jackets over slim cropped pants.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

After opening a brandstore in Amsterdam last month Dior made clear The Netherlands form a target market important enough to focus on. So Dutch actrice Carice van Houten being invited as a front row guest (next to Jessica Alba and Rihanna) at this afternoon’s show for the first time was no coincidence either. And if you ask whether those fall/winter ensembles looked suitable for the Dutch woman, the answer is yes. Raf Simons presented a colorful, well tailored, elegant and sophisticated collection women can actually wear (yes even while cycling to work, like us Dutchies do). There were deep colored, double breasted suits to hit the office in. Models wore chic woolen trenchcoats which had ¾ sleeves with long colored gloves. Simons sent out quilted, flared dresses, paired with flared scarves. Bright (fluo) dresses were worn over tank top dresses in a different color. Each and every single double breasted, pinstripe jacket paired with a shirt dress and bare legs looked super chic. Lace up going out dresses seemed elegant for women of any age. And the finale, existing of a number of floor sweeping sheer dresses worn over shorter simpler designs, had a fresh kind of coolness we’d sure like to try.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2014

It is Raf Simons’ third season as creative director at Christian Dior. And it seems that he’s trying to twist the Dior-code a little bit to his own vision. That means: modernity. The designer Simons started with slicing the Bar jacket at the waist over vibrant silk floral shorts. Much of the show celebrated the Femme Fleur, and he kept the silhouettes lean and ladified, with cialis 5 mg subtle hints of the Fifties.
Where Simons broke away most clearly was in details of cut. He reconfigured a ballgown into a short lantern skirt, and finished a sexy striped shirtdress with a knot in back. Light, roomy sweaters offered an alternative to the more fitted lines that prevailed.
Raf Simons focused mostly on daywear, until the finale, for which the models all changed into either black tailored looks or short evening dresses. Rendered in silvery metallic floral jacquards in familiar silhouettes.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

In his second ready to wear-collection for the house of Christian Dior Raf Simons brought art and Dior closer together. You could see it on the clothes with Andy Warhol’s early, sensitive drawings as a recurring graphic. Warhol also echoed in the silvered spheres suspended in the room and the Laurie Anderson soundtrack reflected the right mood. But also Dior and Simons got closer: the Bar jacket was paired with baggy pants in a navy or black denim wool.
The message seemed to be about control. Just look at the way the classic “lady” silhouettes—bustier, full-skirted—were translated into black leather, or the Dior houndstooth was transmogrified into a sexy little bustier with a wrapped silk dress. They’ll likely be the ambassadors for the new Dior.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Raf Simons surprised the audience with a feminine and refined collection. Almost like a literal clean slate, the show opened with a series of crisp black suits and neck-scarves, before descending into jacket dresses and mini ballgowns.  Styles which Raf Simons described as both “feminine” and “complex” in equal measure. The finale consisted of couture-worthy silhouettes with voluminous printed skirts and skintight black tops. It was beautiful, strange and unusual – so precise but so varied.

Christian Dior Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show FW2012 Paris

There are no words to describe the beautiful, elegant, French, chic yet modern collection Raf Simons designed for Christian Dior.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

With all the rumors about Dior he must be under a lot of pressure, but boy did Bill Gaytten show an amazing collection. It might just be his last one, and if so, he’s definitely leaving with his head held high.

Gracefully dressed women walked his runway in soft modern dresses and skirts. Again materials were combined in one look. Like for instance a pink dress with a diagonal leather band on it. Or a woolen embroidered version with a metallic part on the models’ breast. And not to mention those gorgeous evening gowns which had transparent sleeves or fronts and lottts of tule.

Every single design was feminine to the max; accentuated waists, flowing (New Look) skirts and ultra soft shades (nude, rose, burgundy). Also the large necklaces gave the looks extra reason to stand out.

A total of 56 looks may have been a little too much. Yet there wasn’t one look that didn’t belong in this jaw dropping collection. Props for Gayten and fingers crossed he might get to stay at Dior.

 

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The house of Christian Dior is still in transition. And while they are in this vacuum, the only thing the design-team can do is designing commercial stuff. The loyal customer still wants to buy new clothes, no?

Bill Gaytten showed a new, subtle version of the Bar jacket with a wide neckline and more streamlined silhouette. The collection never went to the extremes. The jacket was worn over organza blouses and bubble skirts done in airy fabrics. It looked pretty and feminine in pale colors as well as a few shots of red. The color was a light contrast to the graphic black-and-white check motif and geometric embroideries on shirts and dresses. For evening, it was a steady stream of filmy silks, plied with tulle and lace.

The king is gone

Christian Dior caused quite a mob-scene outside the Rodin Museum yesterday, where the fashion-house built a big black tent in the gardens for the show. Approximately 300 to 500 people gathered in the Rue de Varenne trying to get a glimpse of celebrities but also Bernard Arnault – ceo of LVMH – and other vips, cameracrews, photographers, journalist and curious tourists fled the street. Eventually the police tried to put everybody behind the gates.

And there was only one single man who symbolically tried to speak out for John Galliano. And let’s be honest – we will miss Galliano. A lot.

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