Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Phoebe Philo presented confident, distinctive women with a taste for classic luxury in her runway-show for Celine. That luxury looked advanced and individualized with a quirky cut, proportion, color or print. There was a sense of cosmopolitan practicality and versatility. Like the girl in the brown trench, crinkled as if it had been folded in a suitcase and worn with a leather hood tied around the neck, pants and galoshlike pointy leather boots. The woman in the black-and-blond fur coat over a casual navy V-neck sweater, aqua blue T-shirt and pants that zipped down over white heels, carrying a large, plain black canvas tote, like a reusable shopping bag, could have been trying to look like she wasn’t trying to look chic at the grocery store. A model — in a modernist Josephine dress, draped and gathered at the hem over lace tights and gold shoes — might have been headed to date night. Those carrying big fluffy blankets with their tuxedo tailoring and exotic prints, suggested travel, as did the model in a lightweight white trench done in a map print. We’ll definitely find parts of this collection back in mainstreet collections.

Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Before the show even had started, the Celine team had people already talking about the huge tented space in yellow, orange, red and blue. It was designed by the Danish artist Fos, also known as Thomas Poulsen, and a longstanding collaborator with Philo on furnishings in several Céline stores worldwide. The backdrop is always one of the first signs to see what’s on the menu for spring 2016 and this tent symbolized the feeling of freedom. Pack your tent and you can go anywhere you want.

But although you’re on holiday and decided to go camping, you still want to look your best. Philo understands like no other. The main question for this collection was: how do clothes make you feel? Or more importantly: how do you want them to make you feel? According to Philo, it’s powerful, strong, sexy, feminine and free. She doesn’t only creates clothes she likes to wear herself, but simultaneously the kind of clothes that other women might actually want to wear. From the fashion editors to the main stream audience and from New York to Japan. And we’re sure same goes for this spring collection. If you were wondering how to combine soft refinement and duty or how to balance between strong and feminine, take a close look. We counted many strong and structured silhouettes layered over soft and fluid garments, like a leathery tunic worn over a soft blue flowy t-dress or a minimalistic halter top teaming up with classic checked trousers. Philo also did a turn with lingerie, like she did for fall 2015. The lace-trimmed black and white silk slip dresses that opened the show are the perfect comfy summer wear, surprisingly combined with sturdy ankle boots and a perfectly strong tailored coat worn over it. But it could be easily worn as negligees as well. The smooth braids, bold red lips and eye graphics only empowered every look even more.

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

Designer Phoebe Philo tried to explore the fine line between the idea of sexuality and sensuality and translated that into the Céline-style. She opened with a sweater with belled cuffs covering the hand over wide pants in what looked like embroidered crocheted lace. The fabric would recur in a jacket over pants and a dress, all chaste of silhouette but revealing of skin via random devoré windows. Philo also did a turn with lingerie, corsets undone and deconstructed over slipdresses and deliberately ill-fitting conical bras. Sweater dresses covered up in front flashed circular, open portholes in back.
Besides that there were shirts in charming animal prints over roomy skirts or loose plunging-neck onesies with polite underpinnings and enormous, colorful totes.

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

The Céline-collection for fall 2014 was about diversity, starting with lady-like fit-and-flare coats with off-beat button treatments. That continued with portrait collar tops tucked into wide-legged trousers. This established a subtle retro vibe that went in and out.

The thirties were on Philo’s mind when she was first thinking about the collection, especially women like Hannah Höch and Lee Miller, pivotal figures in the Dada and surrealist art worlds.

Despite the masculine elements in the collection — the oversize, man-styled trousers – Philo’s preferred emphasis was the tenderness of the clothes. That translated into pieces that were very much crafted by hand rather than manufactured. They were as sensual as the tweed knits that pooled extravagantly over platform sandals, as textured as the hazy animal prints. Philo underscored the importance of nature with the lush greenery that sprouted along the catwalk. She imagined her woman running through fields. The clothes themselves often felt bursting with life, with seams feathering and fraying.

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2014

Phoebe Philo said goodbye to minimalism yesterday with a collection that burst with power, flamboyant color, tribal adornments and artisanal elements.

The bold graphics startled, initially; it felt like an aggressive statement — in a good way. Philo retained her clothes’ inherent refinement while injecting them with a primal energy influenced not only by the creative adornments of exotic, nonspecific cultures, but also by Western graffiti. Philo made it ultracool canada pharmacy and modern.
The color palette had that late-eighties feel of something primary, urgent, graphic.
Philo opened with sturdy elongated, crisp T-shirts and tanks decorated with big, bold painters’ brushstrokes over delicate, breezy pleated skirts, the contrasts of structure and texture creating a fresh silhouette. She widened her stance with oversize tunics and sweaters and added textural diversity with festoons of thick fringing. The bags were fabulous, whether big sacks with endless fringing or big, flat carryalls in bright colors with contrasting linings and metal handles.
In her comment after the show Philo told the press that her collection was about “power to women”.

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Phoebe Philo returned to a traditional show for spring. Philo’s clearest message was a twist of fabric, a wide bandeau of sorts, across the bodice of T-shirts and other tops. Sometimes tone-on-tone, sometimes with an additional twist of black netting against white.  There was rawness  in unsewn hems, whether fully frayed or with a few long threads flying about.
While Philo still loves a slouchy, mannish silhouette, she also included looks with leaner, more sensual lines. Another nod to the vibe: dresses with deep V-necklines inset with graphic netting.
The accessories got everybody’s attention: the silly flat slippers lined in vibrant fur  were a runway-only joke. Simply beautiful was her new handbag, a soft pastel clutch rolled over on top like a paper bag.

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

You can’t avoid Céline these days in Paris. Not in the streets, not in the shops – the new minimalism Phoebe Philo preaches inspired lots of people and made women reconsider their garderobe and make new choices. The collection she sent out this morning pushed the boundaries of simply elegant again. This time Phoebe Philo added a touch of militarism and workwear to the clothes.

The grid was formed by wide pants -ankle-height -, pleated skirts, battledresses and longer jackets with large pockets both tied wit a big belt and dresses that reminded of a nurse in gone-by times. The collection breathed moderism in every stitch but had an invisible Forties touch. White was the main color, followed by brown and dark green, one part had flashes of red.

There were Philo’s signature leather structured tops, sweaters, T-shirts and tunics with a longer length at the back. They added a feminine touch to the straight pants and mixed very well with the pleated skirts. Balck suede shoes had high platforms – sometimes in contrasting color -, round toes and big straps.

 

Trend Report SS2011: minimal effort, major success

This season too, you can look terrific without looking like you’ve spend hours in front of the mirror. Yes, we’re talking about the minimalistic look which is still a big trend in fashion. This season besides Chloe, Celine and Calvin Klein other brands have joined in on the fun as well. Derek Lam, Isabel Marant and Jil Sander all opted for the less is more look in their spring/summer collections.

And the great twist of this season is color. So after the minimalistic white, nude and black, there’s the minimal red, yellow, pink and even turquoise. The rest of the minimalistic rules remain the same though; clean cuts, no prints, straight lines and no extra fuzz (cutouts, frills, ruffles, bows etc).

Looking chic was never this easy…

Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Oh, oh, that was another beautiful, simple and sober collection Phoebe Philo created for Celine. Hardly any prints, except a wood-print in brown-tones, but muted colors ranging from black, brown, darkred, yellow, orange, creme and light pink.

It was minimal to the max: long straight coats, two-colored pants, sleeveless tops at pleated skirts and a graphic play with contrasting colors in shirts and turtlenecks. No jewelry, onlu twotoned pointed shoes, two new handbags – that’s it. The only indulging part were the fur-coats and deux-pieces in a soft furry fabric.

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2011

We spotted lots of minimalistic, leather camel-and black colored outfits in the audience at Céline. The ultimate proof that Phoebe Philo’s collection of last season was a big hit. And after what we’ve seen today, we’re quite certain this new spring collection will do just as well as the last one.

Philo again opted for a minimalistic approach; clean cuts, wide sleeves and long tuxedo pants. All with a masculine touch. In between a lot of white looks were some strong-colored outfits. First denim-like blue linen and then a slightly brighter blue combined with Burgundy leather.

New were the thank tops with zip-details, the extremely low V-necks and a few graphic colored prints. Overall: a perfect summery variant to the collection we saw half a year ago.

Next Page »