WOMENSWEAR SS2016: Give the cold shoulder

Forget about the cropped top, by now it’s basically fashion road kill. But its substitute will kill it just as much. We’re talking the off-shoulder tops. There’s no doubt about it: shoulders are THE erogenous zone for this summer. They always look good and we don’t have to train them like our abs (thank god!). Just put some illuminating (tanning) lotion on your clavicles and anyone can pull of that supermodel-over-the-shoulder-look (or brush her shoulders off like Jay-Z).

The off-shoulder is not just a trend, but a real wardrobe essential. Ever since the 1840s fashion is characterised by low and sloping shoulders. But today’s version has it roots especially from the French riviera style. French icon Brigitte Bardot, who owned this look during the 1960s, wearing off-the-shoulder tops with everything from midi skirts to pants. And let’s not forget about Jane Birkin. A jeans and simple top never looked this good. It’s flirty and fun, all the while hiding your armpits (what else could you ask for?!) And it comes in many variations. From elegant strapless items to ruffled one-shouldered tops and dresses or tight cut-out pieces, there are plenty of ways to work this trend. Team it up with a cool pair of boyfriend jeans, culottes or suede A-line skirt for a grown-up 70s vibe. Here’s how to wear the key pieces.

MENSWEAR SS2016: Sandal? You mean the ‘mandal’!

If we ask you what makes the man? It’s the beard. The masculinity. The lower voice. Perhaps his rough jeans and feel for casualty. But hell to the no this will include socks in sandals. Dark sartorial times. They don’t call it ‘the sad-dad’ look for nothing, folks. It’s actually number 1,2 ánd 3 on the list of ‘don’t ever try this at home’. Until there was this very handsome person named David Beckham (actually the Pope was first, but hey, let’s keep it interesting shall we) who wore his white sport socks (yikes!) in his white Adidas slippers (more yikes!). And all of sudden it got the cool-factor and it became a huge fashion statement. And with even The Biebs and lovely ladies like Rita Ora, Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen and Elle Fanning stepping out in them, it was only a matter of time before it was socially accepted.

The funny thing is, the sandal remains summer’s most divisive and unlikely trend for men. You may now be shaking your head grimly, but the good thing is, though, this time we’re talking proper leather sandals here (the so called ‘mandal’), not those cheap rubber flip-flops. And a bunch of heavy weight designers is showing you how to wear it, everyone from Gucci, Versace, Michael Kors, Marni, Kenzo and Maison Margiela. Most times it’s teamed up with a smart and tailored look, which is even more surprising. But let’s not forget: Fashion is not only here to make you feel more confident, but also to take you out of your comfortzone. One warning: Choose wisely. Tanned legs are a must. Thin socks and stylish sandals make sure you don’t cross the fine line between Beckham-sexy and lost German tourist.

WOMENSWEAR SS16: Unironed business

Don’t like ironing (who does by the way)? We have the best news for you: crumpled fabric is a key detail trend this season (yay!). Yep, it’s hot catwalk material. And that gives you way more time in the morning, sounds good right? A wrinkled dress seems like a huge fashion faux pas, but not if we ask the big boys in fashion. Take your cue from Victoria Beckham, Altuzarra, Thakoon, Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Givenchy who all decided to lack a little on the ironing part. Even the most delicate, silk (slip)dresses were wrinkled. And we have to admit: it still has this easy breezy elegance you wish for in summer. Going for a casual daytime look? Watch for Victoria Beckham or Altuzarra. Heading out for dinner or a party tonight? Take note from Nina Ricci or Givenchy. Finish it off with some statement accessories and these awesome summer it-shoes, and prepare to dance the night away.

MENSWEAR TREND ss2016: Vintage Americana

‘Cuba Quiero bailar la salsa. Cuba Quiero bailar la salsa.’ When seeing this trend, all we want to do is sing and sway to the Gibson Brothers song. Bring in the summer, pretty please! Latin America is becoming popular every year, not only when it comes to traveling (it’s on our wish list for sure!), but now also in fashion.

The cuban collar shirt never seems to fade away from the mens wardrobe and isn’t a newcomer. It’s probably something that your grandfather wore in the 1950s, the time the shirt made its big debut on the fashion stage. It’s the perfect light and breezy element in every men’s summer wardrobe, making it a gentleman’s must-have. Like a hot summer night in vice city. It oozes old-school charm and class. What sets them apart from the rest? They have an open, lapel-like collar, short-sleeved, buttoned down and have a straight cut hem. The collections from Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons all showed Cuban-collar shirts, executed with geometric prints or summery pastels. Yes, you can go terribly (but really terribly) wrong with this one (think Hawaiian or retro bowling style or Tony Montana in Scarface), but combined with baggy trousers (huge trend!), neckerchiefs (yep, trend!) and a pair of chinos and you’re done. This is a first for you? Maybe it’s best to opt for a slim-fitting version rather than a traditional boxy cuts to start of with. Consider rolling your shirtsleeves for an added touch of 50s nostalgia. Though, the main decision you have to make is will you wear the collar under or over your lapels. The designers will help you decide how to integrate a touch of vintage 1950s style to your warm-weather look.

Trend Report SS15: Not over(all) it

Overall, “pair of overalls”, bib-and-brace overalls, dungas or dungarees. So many names, so many functions. Who would have ever thought this casual attire would ever make it to the center stage of the fashion scene? Well, start believing it now because this golden oldie has been revamped and ready for action this SS15.

With denim being one of the biggest trends for this season, it’s likely you already have one overall in your closet. The two of them have been intertwined since forever and seem to dominate our wardrobe every few years as they go way back. The first pair of jeans were created in 1873 by Levi Strauss. He created an affordable denim version of the overalls silhouette once used by the British Army in the mid 18th Century. In the 19th century, the overalls became the uniform of the day laborer, worn by miners, mechanics, railroad workers, and farmers.

The ’90s were a big moment for overalls as it became the personal style of hip-hop artists like Tupac, TLC, LL Cool J and DMX. Wearing them without a shirt on underneath or better yet, one strap unbuckled and tucked in their Timberland boots. And the garment’s popularity extended to an even bigger stage when it started to appear in popular tv series like Beverly Hills 90210, Friends and The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. And can’t we all remember TV style icon Carrie Bradshaw (Sarah Jessica Parker) wearing her fitted overalls on a trip to the country on Sex and the City? She was a hot child in the city, for sure.

No wonder the fashion pact began to sell one-piece overalls -taking it from practical to posh. Dungerees have proven their fashion charm beyond toddler domain and have evolved from functional clothing and runway favourite into our favourite summer gear and the ultimate festival compagnon (especially with shorts). The easy, wear-it-with-anything is playful and casual, but can also be dressed up very chic (in leather). No time for considering; let your imagination flow as these classics are the new chic.

Round Up Paris Womenswear FW2012

We have seen some supreme tailoring in Paris, resulting in sensual rounded shapes, exaggerated and challenging proportions and exciting fabrics. The world is clearly connected and the runways as well. Power looks, sculptured contours and very literary historical references were all over the place. Where we first spotted a hint of powder pink romance this was too scarce to be labelled a strong influence. The general feeling of tough powerplay and getting ready to withstand challenging times is ruling. Executed in a careful play with the existing parameters of couture, yet tailored with the contemporary flavor for bold statements. Think big.

It was not just the silhouette that takes on new dimensions this season; there is also the stage. Vuitton and Chanel confirm the feel for drama, stage setting and grand gestures. Catwalks became movie-sets, the models actors and the garments costumes. To quote one of the grand old NY ladies in the wonderful upcoming documentary: ‘Advanced Style’. ‘I dress up everyday for the theatre of my life’. That reflects clearly the attitude of women who opt for the most eccentric looks that where shown in Paris past week. These represent the icing on a cake that tasted very well, but were confirming the fact that the flavors of cakes today are not regionally bound any more. Globalization is a fact in fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

FIERCE

Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent staged fierce and perseverance. Ferocious, brave and powerful women with a provocative attitude. Forceful shades as black and red gain power by leather sheen, high polish and slick coatings.

 

SCI FI

Balenciaga and Chanel teamed up showing challenging material with a science fiction character. Priestesses of techno cult in bonded materials, plastics, liquid films and technical coatings and foils.

 

SCULPTURE

Lanvin was the master of sculpture. An expression of exalted womanliness with a generous emphasis on the curve. Comme des Garçons took it to an extreme by showing models as paper cut dolls and labeling these as ‘the future in two dimensions’.  The exaggeration of shape, the bringing back contours to the explicit essence, seems key.

 

HISTORY

Louis Vuitton takes us back in the old days by showing series of costume outfits that stand out by their absolute supreme elaboration and embellishment. Making history relevant once more by showing truly innovative skills and craftsmanship in embellishment, scattering crystals generously.

 

ORIENT

Style.com claims that Haider Ackermann has the most sophisticated color sense of anyone in Paris and we just want to confirm this. He seems to reflect on the orient; the passionate shades of the east in subtle monochrome harmonies are stunning and truly inspiring. This combined with the intricate and elaborate patterns Dries van Noten showed are great inspirations for garments that will please the crowd.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Round Up Milan Womenswear FW2012

Milan was all about beauty and redefining feminine presence. The importance of womanhood translated into powerful design. Reports noted clear, modern sensibility and elegance rooted in the classic past, but applied to today’s woman. From linear, architectural statements to rock and roll romance, from virtual princess looks, to pre-Raphaelite twists and martial arts references. Inspiration was well documented and there seems a clear wish to find the context behind these hybrid collections. Where New York mixed identities Milan reinforced them. We spotted impeccable tailoring, love for crafts and embellishment, sublime couture and a daring choice of materials inspired by the wish to tap into the duality of the 21^st century woman.

Prada was much more then just ORIENTALIST, with a vibrant collection with strong contrast and  sharp & graphic silhouettes. In these outfits we see a glint of the well spread oriental inspiration shining though with opulent, high tech embellishment. Marni also joined this direction.

 

Many designers explored a dark color palette, but the DARK VISION of Dolce & Gabbana was at the same time an Italianate vision of palazzo life. They showed, as Bottega Veneta and Aquilano.Rimondi did, a more costume message.

 

Sportmax explored details in martial arts dress forms and applied these to a TECHNO FORWARD collection, combining natural and tech materials with retro futurist flavor. As did Fendi and Max Mara.

 

Raf Simons at Jil Sander was one of the designers for whom it was ALL ABOUT BEAUTY, both impeccably tailored and meltingly soft. Bottega Veneta presented a more powerful woman, but also beautiful in every detail.

 

Missoni, Roberto Cavalli and Fendi showed their NATURALIST character by applying their masterful crafts to nature’s textures, weaving an urban wardrobe out of wood, stone, fur, tree bark, and mica-sparkled minerals.

Milan’s collections where strong, spirited and powerful.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Round Up New York Womenswear FW2012

This was an interesting week in New York. This season seemed one big exercise. Testing shapes, volumes and proportions. Trying textures, various embellishments, prints and crafts from different origins and inspirations. Probing periods, from 20s, 30s, 70s to 80s. And the fun factor is that it is hard to guess what comes from whom. It seems ideas are exchanged, copied, re-edited and re-interpreted. Identities mixed, profiles and signatures blurred. Scatter collection snapshots and guess its origins. It will be a wild guess this time!

We spot a feel for the extreme and ECCENTRIC, iconic and humorous as Marc Jacobs showed it, reflecting on grand fashion divas. Altazurra and Libertine are two among others staging artful embellishment and intricate crafts.

 

Ports 1961 hit on a SCULTPURAL trend, showing a peplum silhouette, one of the favorites this season. But there is more; masterfully executed by the grand master of simplicity Calvin Klein but also Philip Lim, Peter Som and Alexander Wang showed bold rounded silhouettes.

 

OVERSIZED is an understatement when talking about the Proenza Schouler collection. Also both Donna Karan and Y3 super sized items within their range. Y3 is one of the few collections faithful to sportswear as we were so used to in The Big Apple.

 

NY was DRESSED UP this season, Donna Karan hat topped ladies dressed reminiscent of Marlene Dietrich. Victoria Beckham shows shapely contouring shifts and Diane von Furstenberg sensual draping.

 

Friendly and relaxed were the global travellers; modern NOMADS in multi cultural referenced cuddly warps and layers. Rag & Bone, showed city nomads, Y3 global hybrids and Proenza Schouler went east.

This fashion mash-up makes us curious about what comes next!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Milan Catwalk Fashion fw2010: shoppinglist

While the fashion circus is traveling to the next stop – Paris – we thought it might be helpful to give you already a sort of shopping list. You’ll never know what you might run into during the sales !

Milan was all about slim suits in techno fabrics, mixed with bulky grandpa’s cardigan’s often used as a coat and a rough knitted aged sweater. Military style is back, especially in coats – look for navy duffels in blue, aviator-jackets in black/shearling, the Monty-coat and officer-coats in army-green with golden buttons.

Black is still the new black, but also all shades of gray. The darks are often mixed with rich colors as purple and burgundy. New are camel and off white, mixed with buttery yellow.

It seems men will have their own legging as well, regarding the many long-johns we spotted in the collections. It was a favorite of Dolce & Gabbana and maybe for some women, but we’re not sure men will like them. At home yes, outside hmm (maybe only underneath a comfy ski-overall). Instead of a long-john look for a slim, too short pant with or without ‘cuffs’.

The rough look is perfect with the military boots, beautifully aged at Burberry, polished at Bottega Veneta. Fans of modern classics can stick to the Gucci-loafer. More accessories: an Italian cap, berets and an army-bag.

One of the main messages the coming season is layering: a T-shirt, a denim shirt, a jacket, a cardigan or two, something leather, silver mesh or glitzy (like patent leather, or plastic). The style moves between polished Seventies style (like Prada), Fifties playboys (Gucci) and ageless rockers turned businessmen.

Catwalktrends ss2010: Headbands

Although many designers gave their models a natural look and let their hair hang loose, some of them experimented with the model’s hairdo’s. We saw braids, we saw curls and we saw headbands!

Stefano Pilati created the most outstanding headband-look for Yves Saint Laurent. His girls wore the zig zag headbands you may remember wearing when you were a kid. Yet his models didn’t just wear one of them; it must have been at least ten headbands per model.

Then we had the Hermes models who wore wide headbands, some with a snake print. In the Bottega Veneta show all girls wore the same white ones. At Lacoste the models got a braided white version or a colorful striped one. And Michael Kors’s models showed some transparent plastic ones that matched with his bracelets.

Marc Jacobs of course used his headbands with bow and Sonia Rykiel had the black flat circular ‘hats’ attached to hers. Sienna Miller gave her girls a turban-looking headband for her Twenty8Twelve show.