AFW 2024: Tess van Zalinge Fashionshow

Dutch designer Tess van Zalinge presented her collection Momentum at this edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week.

Jef Montes Tormenta Paris Catwalkshow & Presentation

Collection Tormenta is Jef Montes’ first international presentation and Paris debut during the International Art Fair. The collection consists of thirty creations and a material installation. Collection Tormenta is inspired by the maritime industry. Tormenta means Storm in Spanish and the collection exploits Jef’s family heritage with their love for ships. He studied materials that are used in the process to build ships. Materials like nylon, brass, carbon and fibre-glass were used to create technical fabrics. Jef’s grandfather gabriel inspired him to create the dessins for Tormenta. When he was younger he worked on several ships in the south of Spain catching sharks. A few years ago he gave Jef a miniature ship that he handcrafted out of wood. Jef got inspired and that meant the beginning of Tormenta.
Like a ship caught in the storm, Jef designs materials that arise and develop like a storm around the body. Through technical fabrics that take on a new dimension, the essence of the collection is captured in the material installation. Sustainability plays an important role in the p[rocess of Jef’s projects. For Tormenta, several creations from previous projects are further developed and recreated.
Jef Montes is a Dutch designer, whose work balances between the borders of fashion and art.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Designers are looking for new proportions and silhouettes, besides the HD-color, that’s the main message in Milan right now. Prada is trying to change the slim silhouette now for a few seasons, but it is difficult in a world where men hate to change the fit of their suit. They prefer to stick to what they have. But what Prada suggested yesterday didn’t seem strange at all: the rounded shoulderline, the wider fit and the black mixed with lurex in jewelcolors looked nice. However, it were the tracksuits and shiny, synthetic fabrics that made me look away.

In a time where men are desperately looking for a new dresscode this was not a serious alternative. It was tacky and a bit cheap. But, as with all those Prada-collections which irritate at first sight, the fashion-oracle probably knows something we all don’t understand yet. Time will tell.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Dolce & Gabbana keep on celebrating their 20th anniversary with memorable events. Not only a cocktail and exhibition in the Palazzo Marino (City Hall) in the centre of Milan, but also with great theatrical fashionshows. The shows not only tell the story of their roots, but also of their creativity and passion.

Today’s menswearshow was all about passion and drama. The duo took inspiration from their beloved Sicily, especially from the fishermen. They took their simple, but inventive way of clothing – pants held together by a rope, fishnet-shirts, simple linen suits, sandals and shorts – and translated that in a casual, relaxed collection with white, black and sand as their main colors. I’m sure there was something for actor Morgan Freeman or Matthew McConnaughey who were attending the show.

But the most dramatic part was the performance of singer Annie Lennox. Dressed in a  huge ballgown she played the piano and acted like a real diva. Her voice sounded better than ever and she sang her evergreens passionately.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

No final changes or last minutes alterations were possible at Marc Jacobs’ fashion show. All of his models were already visible on stage at the beginning of the show. At first they were standing in a wooden frame, wrapped up in brown paper. Yet as Marc Jacobs tore off the paper they just stood there waiting to hit the runway.

Fortunately they didn’t have to wait very long. Because since Marc Jacobs banned celebs at his show this year he was able to start the show on time, for once. (His shows used to always start way too late, one time the delay was three hours.)

The first few outfits of the show could best be described as simple and sober. The wide skirts and the neutral grey shades did not make our hearts beat faster.

Then it got a little funkier as large fur coats with huge fur collars and cuffs were introduced. Though the hues of grey and beige were the same and they stayed the same throughout the collection.

The three new faces from last season, our Dutch top models, walked in the show as well. Bregje Heinen appeared in one of the sheer dresses of the collection. Patricia van der Vliet wore one too, yet hers was combined with a long striped coat. Mirte Maas wore a pair of colored glasses, which didn’t look too cool.

Several sequined looks reminded us of the fact that we were watching a Marc Jacobs fashion show for the winter of 2010/2011. We’d almost forget that while none of the clothes in this collection were very renewing.

But it seemed that was exactly Marc Jacobs’ point. He told the press: ‘There’s so much striving for newness now that newness feels less new.’ So he purposely didn’t go for something new or different. He just showed he knows what he’s doing and showed he’s good at it too.

But we’re not satisfied that easily…

The show ended with a few shiny dresses. Yet while the models wore hardly any make up and just let their hair hang loose the finale didn’t look very impressive. Marc could have put a little bit more effort into that part, if you ask us.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

It looked like Alexander Wang took the traditional banker’s uniform – the darkblue pinstriped suit – deconstructed it and put it together again. The result was sexy and dark, almost with a Belgian touch. But where designers like An Demeulemeester and the early Martin Margiela put a lot of effort in the making, the cut and the fit, it seemed Wang aimed more at the effect. Cropped blazers, tailcoats and vests exposed flashes of skin and were worn with thick thigh-high legwarmers and chunky heels. Layering also played a part in this collection, but was less relaxed. For evening and partywear Wang chose velvet and chenille.