Milan Catwalk Fashion show fw2010: Roberto Cavalli

The Roberto Cavalli fashion show was a mix of several themes. There were military influences and Victorian details. Yet the show was also very Cavalli due to the use of jaguar prints.

One piece of clothing really stood out: tartan trousers, cut just under the knee. Those trousers came by in a few variations matched with large coats, metal mash tank tops or velour’s jackets. One metallic top had such a detailed pattern that the material resembled lace fabric.

Roberto Cavalli accentuated the men’s body in the right way with this collection; small at the bottom and wide at the top. So his trousers were tight and his big jackets had emphasized shoulders and XL collars with often, not one but two, fur layers.

The models wore shiny shoes in different shades. Their feminine metal belts had all sorts of frills and therefore were real showpieces.

The use of military as a theme may not have been quite renewing. Yet overall the Cavalli collection was creative and sophisticated.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Salvatore Ferragamo

After the sound of trampling hoofs the Ferragamo models slowly came on to the runway. The collection meant to present the elegance and pride of ‘a man on horseback’ and show his sophistication and casual look.

This resulted in great balanced outfits in warm natural colors like orange, chocolate brown, velvet and red.

The models wore loose-knitted scarfs with long fringes. They looked comfortable in some large knitted cardigans with leather belts on top of them.

Ferragamo’s trousers were striped and his thick jackets had the tartan look going on. A few good old toggle coats came by and we saw some dignified jackets with a smooth satin finishing.

Altogether the use of knitwear, leather and cashmere made up for a luxurious-looking Ferragamo collection.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Burberry Prorsum

The collection Christopher Bailey presented yesterday for Burberry Prorsum was one of his strongest and focused of past seasons. He cut out all the crap, and what was left over were strong, big coats inspired by army-wear (off course, Burberry’s heritage lies in the trenches of World War I) – from army-green, big coats with golden buttons to bulky aviator-jackets and comfy marine-duffels. All a man needs besides coats like these are a shirt (washed denim, grey or off white), a soft knit, a slim pant in black and a pair of army-boots. And maybe a jacket for more formal occasions – but he only needs te coat to make a good impression.

backstage world ss2010: tension

It’s a whole different world backstage at the fashionshows. A world of fun, excitement and creativity. Today: backstage at Christian Dior, where John Galliano  takes a zip of champagne while the rest is waiting for the show to end.

backstage world ss2010: ray of light

It’s a whole different world backstage at the fashionshows. A world of fun, excitement and creativity. Today: backstage at John Galliano, where a ray of light catches a glimpse of the extra-ordinairy heels.

Catwalktrends ss2010: showstopping shoes

The designers gave the models a hard time walking the runway to show the spring/summer collections. The shoes they had to wear often had eye-catching shapes and heights.

The shoes in the Jil Sander show had iron pins for heels. Donatella Versace used platform shoes. John Galliano’s shoes were extremely high and his stiletto heels seemed to be made of colored pearls. Chanel introduced a few clogs.

Some models in the Dsquared show had spikes all over their shoes. Viktor & Rolf embellished theirs with pink flowers, Vivienne Westwood decorated hers with wings. Matthew Williamson’s shoes had bows.

Next to the ultra high shoes we saw ultra-flat sandals (Issey Miyake, Anna Sui, Valentino, Lacoste, Etro, Armani, Chloe). Those sandals, snake leather and wearing socks in open shoes seem to become the trends for this spring.

Of course the Alexander McQueen shoes were real showstoppers. His shoes were high, had crazy alienated shapes and had reptile prints all over them. Gaga oehlala…

groupielove, the end

In his time away in New York, Williamson learned something about putting on a show. Honed by exposure to that city’s demand for brevity in design, his show in London was a much more focused, slim-contoured collection consisting of leather-inserted polished-linen sheath dresses, super-skinny pants, and paper-bag-waisted shorts.

Catwalktrends ss2010: Headbands

Although many designers gave their models a natural look and let their hair hang loose, some of them experimented with the model’s hairdo’s. We saw braids, we saw curls and we saw headbands!

Stefano Pilati created the most outstanding headband-look for Yves Saint Laurent. His girls wore the zig zag headbands you may remember wearing when you were a kid. Yet his models didn’t just wear one of them; it must have been at least ten headbands per model.

Then we had the Hermes models who wore wide headbands, some with a snake print. In the Bottega Veneta show all girls wore the same white ones. At Lacoste the models got a braided white version or a colorful striped one. And Michael Kors’s models showed some transparent plastic ones that matched with his bracelets.

Marc Jacobs of course used his headbands with bow and Sonia Rykiel had the black flat circular ‘hats’ attached to hers. Sienna Miller gave her girls a turban-looking headband for her Twenty8Twelve show.

groupielove #14

After Fall’s long, almost clerical lengths and the fifties ball skirts of the season before, he went short and leggy for Spring. The recurring silhouette was a drop-waist frothy minidress reminiscent of the twenties. Smothered in dense fringe or feathers (both real and represented in trompe l’oeil prints) or swirls of jeweled embroideries, these jazzy numbers were interspersed with the egg-shaped dresses and cocoon coats that have become a signature of Valli’s nearly five-year-old collection. This season, those came in graphic color-blocking or overscale prints and embroideries inspired by antique carpets. Bold leopard-stamped ponyskin was also in the mix; a short-sleeved jacket and shorts suit in the stuff seemed to attract particularly strong interest from his socialite fan club.

Paris Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #30

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