Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

It was a romantic and gently deconstructed collection of Ann Demeulemeester with hints of antique uniforms. The designer gave the fronts of topcoats, jackets and waistcoats a used and beaten look, and most of the jackets  peeled open in flaps at the waist. She also bleached fabrics to make ghostly patterns, sometimes sprinkled across a  suit like a constellation. Pops of blue, red, yellow or orange broke the darkness, Demeulemeester used the colors for tops or they peeped out from under sheer black layers. The high, black ridingboots and leather gloves gave the models the look of a 17th century landlord, elegant, tough and a bit nostalgic

The standing ovation from Patti Smith was well deserved.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show FW2011

With his fallcollection 2011 John Galliano tried to tell the story of balletdancer Rudolph Nurejev: his struggles, triumphs and artistry. Of course he studied the life of the great dancer thoroughly and tried to translate every part of it even his idea of hope, discipline , dreams and the way he fled Russia. The show started with a pack of Russian emigres amidst a flurry of snowflakes dressed in heavy layers of second hand overcoats and with all their belongings packed at their back. Further on the show recounted Nurejev’s jet setting years in the Sixties, the torturing rehearsals in studios and finally beautiful, glamorous stage-costumes with Tatar-elements.

Galliano didn’t forget the fashiontrends though, he did send out beautiful militairy coats, chunky cardigans, cropped blazers and some fur. Colors were dark and rich, fabrics soft, wahed and luxurious.

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The men’s suit played a major part in the collection of Comme des Garcons, even cardigans looked like a well made jacket. It was actually a very decadent collection compared to other’s we’ve seen of the Japanese label. Maybe it was because of the flowing, silk fabrics used for skirts and pants mixed with slim tailoring. It was a very modern, layered mix  of T-shirts, comfy and soft looking jackets and wide pants. The loose fit is something we have to get used to, after years of slim tailoring.

But is all looked relaxed and rich, thanks to the colors and fabrics.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Like other designers Dries Van Noten seemded to have found inspiration in the militairy world, but more free and luxurious using his  strengths as a tailor and colorist. His own comment to the collection though was that he wanted something glamorous without being feminine and that’s where David Bowie as the Thin White Duke comes along. Not only in the silhouette, also the grooming of the models and in the soundtrack.

A battalion of navy jackets and overcoats — some oversize and belted, others slim-line — formed the backbone of Van Noten’s collection. He added removable fur collars and lapels or  inner nylon shells in contrasting shades. He showed little discipline in the pants department, sending out skinny motorcycle and oversize Bowie-styles in equal measure. He also played with oppositions: a formal navy evening jacket over a casual white tee: a sleek, chic shawl-collared blazer in traditional camel pinning down the silhouette over huge white cargo pants; a cropped cadet jacket laden with bullion embroidery paired with a chunky hand-knit; dark overcoats in the most traditional English materials layered over their exact twins in bright white technical fabrics.

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show FW2011

Dirk Bikkembergs Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Oh life is good and full of fun in the world of the D&G man. Despite it’s highly commercial level and copy & paste of all American logo’s and comics it was a breath of fresh air. Fashion has to be fun too, no? Especially after the dark years that are behind us now and the serious search of other labels for a new look and a new dresscode.

D&G let the sunshine in with their colorful, low crotch, small legged pants, copy/paste T-shirts with the Coca Cola logo and Disney-comics and preppy jackets and shirts. It seemed the American Fifties college-nerd inspired the designers for this mix and match of checks, prints, fits and proportions. It looked fresh and new thanks to the new proportions, shrunken wool knitwear, corduroy and padded nylon.

Moncler Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Thom Browne did it again for Moncler. The US-based designer favors big shows in big spaces al orchestrated with military precision and tyhis time he chose an arena for his hunting-theme collection. Unfortunately for him you cannot orchestrate Beagles the way you do humans, so  the animals brought some life and laugh to the presentation. The collection itse;f consisted of long (waxed) coats in black and green, bodywarmers, colorful turtlenecks and checks for pants.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Everytime you see a collection of Haider Ackerman you are wondering how it is possible he can make leather look so sensual, elegant and modern. The black motorcycle jacket seemed his startingpoint and like a wizard he turned it into halters and vests with curls and bows and he let clash with large kimono jackets worn off the shoulder. He mixed it with black suede trousers – low and tight- or long pleated evening skirts.

Long narrow skirts and black jersey dresses and tops were held in place by just a few cords. Shoulders were small and razor-shape. And his signature cropped jackets were finished off in back with heart-shaped bows.

The color-palette was strong with royal reds and blues and a shot of yellow. The colors were shown in gowns bearing dramatic cutouts at the hip and spaghettistraps, or were an accent on lapels and linings, flashing out from a black jackets rolled sleeves. The overall effect was dramatic and modern. No wonder the audience cheered ecstatic.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2011

Alber Elbaz is one of the few designers who thinks about what women want before he starts designing. He thinks about their lives, their work, their obligations, their worries. And he tries to make the best possible clothes for them. Next spring he offers them many choices from long flowing skirts to flat and smooth day-dresses to pantsuits inspired by athletic wear (his pantsuit is an elongated jacket over skirts and stretch leggings) . There was even a nylon raincoat.

Elbaz doesn’t like perfection, he loves wrinkles. And his collection seemed a hymn to skin: wrinkled in pleating, stretched in all those sheaths. It was a spectacular foundation on which he could use heavy colors. From elegantly taupe to acid yellow, hot pink, and aqua. The designer doesn’t like pantsuits either, so the focus was at his favorite uniformstyle for women: dresses. They came in one-shoulder styles, in a navy stretch fabric, with two dark zippers at the front and a belt. One navy dress had sleeves to just above the elbow and a deep V-front.  Simple flat sandals were the key-shoe.

The shoes in fact were the reason the show started one hour too late. When Elbaz noticed during the rehearsal that the models couldn’t walk on the high heels he planned for the show, the designer decided to skip the shoes and change them for other. That’s what I call respecting women.

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