Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Thom Browne’s first proper show of his women’s collection was a special kind of spectacle. He transformed the New York Public Library into a church with a convent’s worth of models dressed like nuns. Finally Browne found a way to mix his Catholic upbringing and his fascination for uniforms. His nuns marched in covered up except for the gigantic fake eyelashes peeking out from beneath their habits. One by one the girls were liberated from their cloaks by a pair of altar boys, only to reveal clothes that were the real cross to bear.

Underneath there were elements of Browne’s menswear vocabulary: checks, extreme proportions, difficult layering, and an absolute upending of red-white-and-blue tradition. Browne encased each woman in ultra-stiff, tailored layers done in exaggerated proportions with a preppy, varsity theme. There were shrunken suits in mismatched plaids,  blazers with giant peplums and layered maxi coats with shirttail hems, some of which will be wearable once the look is dismantled.

There was absolutely no sex in this collection, restriction was everywhere: the models walked without moving their arms, turtlenecks were pulled up over their mouths, and molded bubble skirts and tops looked about as comfortable as a straight jacket. That seemed precisely the point. One of the finale looks actually included a skirt made out of a cage of red and blue ribbon.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Donna Karan loves to work with contradictions. Masculine-feminine, natural and urban, soft and rough, satin and fur. She continued last season’s pale palette, now  pearl gray and taupe instead of ivory-beige.

As for the clothes, except two pairs of high-waisted draped jersey pants, Karan showed dresses, skirtsuits, and coats, along with a few filmy blouses with draped necklines that sometimes doubled as head scarves. Every look, without exception, had a nipped waist. Karan was at her best in terms of cut, decorating the clothes not with extra stuff but with elegant drapes and folds. One dress was tucked on a soft diagonal and wrapped in front; another fell into a gently  cowl. The jacket of a slim suit had sleeves that tapered from wide, puffed shoulders. Another big hit of this collection were the shearlings and coats.

Often the looks were accessorized with flowing chiffon headscarves worn with a mysterious air of the runway variety, exquisite pearl necklaces and long gloves with deep, dramatic fur cuffs.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

It looks like New York-based designers are preparing themselves for a cold and strong winter regarding the major outerwear focus most collections have.  At times and temperatures like this, a coat is your outfit — just look at all the fashion-people bundled up along the runway.

There were endless excellent choices on offer for next season at DKNY, with a theme called New York Mods. Donna Karan did those coats tailored and graphic, like the black styles with a bold white panel across the chest, adding a little edge with leather sleeves. Toward the end there were knit puffers and furs. It was all sharp and suitable for everyday use. Same goes for what was worn underneath. Tough menswear in sharp, colorblocked tailoring mixed up with motorcycle jackets. Karan worked up chunky knits with a preppy tomboyish flare: bright cardigan dresses and stripey angora sweaters were worn with tailored trousers, tapered and flared. It was a cool and right on time collection.

Preen Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s of the British label Preen looked to the San Francisco crafts movement this season, but approached it in an ultra-modern way. They loved the idea of replicating hand-embroidery, tapestry and appliqué and incorporating it into their designs.

It was the first time Preen had knitwear and art and crafty embellishment in a collection, but it didn’t effect their future-vision. They experimented with proportions – hemlines were elongated, while single items looked like they were several garments. Shirt-sleeves and collars – appearing to be part of a shirt beneath – actually belonged to overcoats,  jumpsuits appeared as matching trouser-and-shirt looks and tapered skirts with  thigh-high splits were fitted with attached shirts. The effect was very modern. The vibrant pops of color, abstract geometric prints and embellished accents that jingled as the models walked by gave the classic silhouettes a touch of chic.

G-Star Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

The new G Star NY RAW-collection was a fusion between 3D, craftsmanship, the elegancy of 1920’s city life and outdoor. That sounds a bit weird, but somehow the designteam of G-Star made it into a modern, consistent collection with a clean urban vibe. The collection also showcased hidden functionalities, based on 1920’s explorers mixed with elegant tailoring. Heavy protection-wear is back into fashion.

Highlights of the collection were the New Charlie Pant for men, featuring a 3D-shaped leg and extreme high back, originally to protect from weather conditions at sea, and inspired by an over pant, which creates volume. The padded Jade Skirt for women featured an extreme knee silhouette created for protection, whilst looking elegant due to high tech tailoring. It was combined with the utility Selwyn Vest, featuring a waxed finish inspired by early North Sea fishermen, who would rub linseed oil into their smocks for waterproofing and windproofing.

Representation of this Metropolitan Explorer theme included the Launceton Coat for both men and women, featuring a storm collar and the natural insulating properties of wool to create a weather proof piece, whilst having a refined tailored silhouette. The city camouflage modern geometric print in the collection also underpinned the core theme, as expressed in the Mackay Jacket.

Libertine Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Known for it’s sophisticated yet handcraft one-of-a-kind garments the Los Angeles based label Libertine sent out a colorful, artistic collection with painted plaid-prints on coats, blazers, dresses, tights and even gloves. The garments were pretty classic and chic – like short blazers, pencilskirts, dresses, tiny cardigans and coats – but the colors, prints and mix made it very modern and surprising. Electric blue, purple, fuchsia, yellow-green, red, orange and black were mixed together and made it into an upbeat collection.

Johnson Hartig and then partner Cindy Greene started Libertine in 2004 presenting vintage pieces with silk-screened graphics. After a few seasons of silence Hartig is back without his partner.

Velour Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2011

LM Lhana Marlet & Marije de Haan Catwalk Fashion Show FW2011

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

For the YSL:-menswearcollection Stefano Pilati found inspiration at Savile Row and the Mod style so unmistakenly linked to Sixties London and still there. Choosing this theme the designer left the wider pants behind (a fit other fashionbrands are showing this season) and made cigarette-pipe trousers and big shoes the foundation for innovative jackets. Some got a velvet trim, breast pockets, compact lapels and clustered buttons which added a youthful character to the new tailoring.

Turtlenecks or band-collared shirts added color. In a season with a lot of outerwear the coats Pilati showed were rather refreshing because of the trapeze-silhouette and use of fabric.

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