Trend Report SS15: Flat forward

Let’s talk flats for a minute. We mean, except for the fact that they’re a huge trend right now(we’re not only seeking a flat stomach, that’s for sure), it’s summer for god’s sake and that invites you all the more to take off those high heels, take fashion a little less serious as you would normally do and give your feet a much needed holiday. Most of the time flats are our secret best friend (changing shoes right before you walk into the office or shoe-changements in the cab before making your entrance during fashion week; guilty as charged!), but this season it’s time to get your most comfy buddies out of the closet and give them some time in the limelight. And you may go flat, but that doesn’t mean you’re neglecting points on grace and elegance. Make sure the shoe has a slim and demure silhouette and choose by forehand what pair of shoes fits best with what outfit, whether you choose easy-going sandals (Dries van Noten), ankle-strap loafers (Chanel), cut-out flats (Carven) or Balenciaga’s pointy-toe flats.
It has never been this tempting to stay flat on the floor for a whole season. Sometimes the most fun part about getting dressed is about what’s going on down under, so make sure it’s worth while.

Monique Collignon Couture Light Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA SS16

Mother Earth is obviously the main topic this Amsterdam Fashion Week. And for Monique Collignon it was time to turn yet another page of her earth prelude this week, revealing chapter two of her Earth Delight story. The catwalk was blocked with an enormous inflatable planet. And what better way to warm up your audience than to press play Michael Jackson, whispering his earth song in your ear (“what have we done to the world”). It led to absolute silence minutes before the lights turned off.

While her show on thursday’s opening night was based on earthy minerals, this one’s based on nature’s four elements: earth, water, fire and wind. The main differences were not so much in the designs itself, but mostly in the use of colour. When talking of nature’s treasures, you can’t skip its beautiful shades. Each element had it’s particular color scheme: Earth (soft pink, beige, green), water (white, blue, green, yellow), fire (red, orange, pink, black) and wind (black and white). Outfits consisted mainly out of dresses in all sorts: knee-lenght, ballet-like, sleeveless, covered with sequins or wrapped around the body. If you’re not a very dressy person, the elegant cinched or strapless jumpsuits might be a good option. Some looks were accessorised with animal printed scarves and clutches. No surprises there for the real Collignon fans (except for the sneakers), but just a rich collection both timeless and modern.

AMWESTEN Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

In a world of fast fashion, designer Annemarie Westen wants to go back to craftsmanship, the point where the fashion process starts from scratch. “My work is never really based on a solid concept, it’s more about the feeling. It surpasses time or age and particular fashion seasons. I aim to give women a certain feeling, I want my clothes to strengthen who they are. Be equal to yourself. Sexyness and confidence is not depending on boobs or butts, but knowing yourself.” Something Annemarie herself has no trouble with, as this collection was full of her familiar signatures. Her designs are simplistic, sophisticated and wearable without losing elegance. She plays with subtle changes in the usual, using sharp graphic layers as a sign of strength, while the soft springy materials such as silk and wool emphasise a woman’s grace. But this time around she added more draping details in maxi-dresses and trousers. For a summer collection though, the colour palette was quite gloomy with only black, white and green. “Black is usually the basic pallet I’m working on, because it’s my favourite colour. And use of colour can cause distraction.” It perfectly fitted the dark, heavy music of Marilyn Manson and Pantera that reached our ears, and gave the show an even stronger heartbeat and a don’t-mess-with-me feeling. Exactly as she had hoped for.

Tailor&Elbaz Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

Two years ago designers slash models slash tv-personalities Maria Tailor and Tamara Elbaz took over Collection PRC, the label of former designer Percy Irausquin. But due to the lack of freedom and design possibilities, especially the lack of space for sporty and super trendy items, made them decide to start their own label. So they did, launching Tailor&Elbaz, a line based on their personal taste, mixing trendy with basic and casual with chic. The exact ingredients they showed today on the Amsterdam Runway. Except, they added a, let’s say, little show element to it. Because how not to go all the way when the theme is Alice in Wonderland. The catwalk was transformed into a dreamy fairytale setting, including a stretch of grass, enormous flowers, mushrooms and rose peddles. All is well, but the question was of course: what is Alice wearing today?

We can imagine Alice her wardrobe isn’t that surprising, but what would happen if you add some Tailor and Elbaz to it? The answer: she would definitely be more glamorous, rock ‘n roll and sporty. She would wear more polo dresses, blossoming skirts, pencil skirts, varsity jackets, ‘love’ and ‘queen’tops and denim shorts covered with hearts. Their color palette of choice existed of shades of black, white, blue and pink. After so much fairtytale sweetness and romance on the tennis court, the rock ‘n roll was mainly found in the many earrings, heavy cat eye make-up and severe ponytails.

This is not a collection that will make heads turn or still you fashion cravings, but if you’re in desperate need of some easy-going daywear glamour, stop searching.

Political Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

It wouldn’t be a strange assumption that the worlds of fashion and politics are so different that they will never collide. But this afternoon, there was serious proof of the growing connections between the two of them during the Political Catwalk. A small group of youngsters from Amsterdam designed fashion for politicians, that politicians showed themselves on the catwalk. An initiative from Stichting f6, who organizes sociocultural projects to raise awareness and to convey knowledge about politics and democracy.

It’s definitely not a first that fashion shows have been linked to political engagement. But it’s definitely a first for these pupils, who used fashion as a tool to air out their thoughts on politics and democracy. While the musical background was filled with sound clips from Dutch political debates, the politicians slash models came walking down the runway in designs such as a jumpsuit covered with Twitterbirds, a skirt made out of newspapers, a dress with vote pencil fringes, a Dutch flag kaftan or a Van Gogh printed shirt.

But there was more to the program, as there was the Encouragement Award to be handed out. Cécile Narinx, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar, was one of the judges. “Uniting fashion and politics is just as hard as trying to merge the north and south pole. Most politicians generally play it safe when it comes to the clothes they’re wearing. Which is a pity, because the way you look can really underline your story and your political statement. You can use it in smart way. These kids made an brave attempt to bring those two separate worlds together throughout their designs. As a judge I will pay attention to movability, personality and, of course, if the political message is well translated.” According to the judges, it was Gaby Reiman’s bike tire skirt design who succeeded to do this best. Nonetheless the question still remains– will fashion and politics ever fully join forces? It’s up to you to mark your cross.

House of Byfield Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

Designer Carmichael Byfield, who has Jamaican roots, had one goal this season: bringing us closer to each other and closer to nature. “I saw it on the catwalks in New York City last year, nature is a hot topic now in the world of fashion. Because it’s important to us as human beings, nature and life are intertwined forever. We should not escape or ignore it, but embrace it instead.” So he did, but in a rock ‘n roll way. We were sucked into a fifties western movie, played by modern day cowboys. All dressed in ‘daywear suits’ balancing on the edge of bold and sophisticated, like semi-transparant bomber jackets and shirts or high waisted trousers. All clothes dipped in bold colours such pink, blue, purple and green. “My collection is for men who’re not afraid of some color in their wardrobe.” He even allows the lads to show some bare skin, sleeveless jackets and unzipped jackets, without feeling like an presumptuous arrogant prick. But as we all know, a man’s world would be nothing without a woman or a girl. The ladies had 50’s retro hairstyles and red lips that would make Gwen Stefani or Paloma Faith jealous, and ladylike dresses that want to make you swing forever on tonight’s jukebox tunes. If this is a proper way to embrace our planet, we feel you Carmichael.

Caribbean Fashion Spot Catwalk Fashion Show SS16

“Keep calm and be Caribbean.” That’s how not to loose your head in the fashion madness, because there is quite some to worry about when it’s your first time to show on the Amsterdam Catwalk. “I’m so glad you didn’t fell when you turned around in those high heels”, Ms. Ray sighs from relieve afterwards. She’s one of the six designer labels of the Caribbean Fashion Spot Catwalk that was featured earlier today: Atelier Doré (Suriname), Beatriz Rodriguez (Puerto Rico), Charu Lochan Dass (Trinidad & Tobago), Gigliola Designs (Aruba), Heather Jones International (Trinidad & Tobago). They aim to provide women of today in the Caribbean with updates about the latest fashion. “They are not only beautiful, but they are all amazing young women that are working hard on their dreams! Diversity always rules and includes”, they announced a few days ago on their Facebookpage.

And yes, we spotted a lot of beautiful young women. And yes, there was quite some diversity on the catwalk as well. Starting out with Atelier Doré showing enormous silver and gemstone jewellery, featuring the tropical nature of Surinam. What followed next seemed to be the Miss Caribbean contest where there was no room for unpretentiousness. Cause if we can learn one thing from those ladies: if you have it, flaunt it baby. There was an overflow of long maxi-dresses, some off-shoulder others with a deep cut v-neck. Lots of ruffles, dainty lines, sequins and subtile shimmers. We counted several jumpsuits, some see-through or with high slits on the side and an open back. The flowy materials made it sometimes hard to see whether it was a dress or jumpsuit. Of course there’s no tropical fever without a bold colour scheme, so we got bombarded with bold pink, red, aubergine, yellow, green, blue and white.

This was not a show to give you an update on what to wear next season or how to be on trend. Although, we spotted one translucent white lace dress that could be perfect material for the ‘the rise and rise of naked dressing’ trend (how to look good naked without really being naked) as lately seen on Beyoncé, J.Lo and Kim Kardashian. Women with flaunting as their middle name. But no, this show was rather one to celebrate fashion and fun. Perhaps all those flower prints could cause some pollination of this cheerful Caribbean fever in our Dutch audience, so we can also keep it cool during these hot summer days.

Jonathan Christopher Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

You wouldn’t think Jonathan made his AFW-debut only a year ago. The Dutch designer from Rotterdam has made a huge leap forwards by winning the Global Denim Award and he has been nominated for the renowned Woolmark Prize, the global search for the world’s best emerging design talent, that will be handed out in Antwerp this monday. “This collection is peanuts when I compare it to monday’s happening. I’m so nervous!” And he has all the right to be so. If he wins this prize, he’s following in the footsteps of big names like Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.

But this evening it was all about his summer collection. Though the sounds of heavy rain and thunderstorms and the backdrop (with dark shadows, fires and a desolated desert) made us a little frightful, Jonathan had a positive message to announce to us all. “Even the most dark and destructive moments have something positive in them. It means a new beginning. A fire, which is presented by the red tones in this collection, also represents new possibilities. New things can be born. I’ve known some new beginnings myself too, because winning the Global Denim Award got me more involved with this ancient fabric and I started experimenting with new techniques and styles, such as scratch ‘n jean(as if the denim got scratched off).” It’s the perfect example of the juxtapositions in life to which the designer is drawn: masculine and feminine, light and dark, soft and harsh. Fragility yet strength is referenced using delicate romantic draping and fabrics against a hard shell of tailoring.

But he not only experimented with lots of denim, he also showed some new silhouettes, such as the kimono (Asian influences) and flared trousers with slits on the side. And what about the trousers that had one skinny and one flared leg? Pretty unusual and progressive for a Dutch designer. Luckily there was also still plenty of room for his well-praised modern and clean silhouettes, which makes it yet another successful collection for him. And for others, as we firmly believe his new designs will be hanging in a lot of male wardrobes next summer.

MAYN Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

The wave of Dutch menswear is getting stronger every year. Tonight another name came to the surface: MAYN. This Amsterdam based menswear brand was founded in 2014 by the award-winning Croatian-born designer Maja Podrug. She launched her first unisex collection for Spring Summer 2013 and her first menswear collection for Autumn Winter 2014 at Cro-A-Porter in Zagreb. Before studying fashion design Maja graduated in Art History. Exploration of sculptural and architectural formative principles is often at the core of MAYN’s designs resulting in innovative cuts and adaptive features.

And that’s exactly what she showed this afternoon, with her collection called Flow. It was inspired by Yuanyang Rice Terraces -hybrid landscapes that represent resolution between working man. It was translated into continuous and organic curve, soft lines and otoshiana pattern-cutting technique and details. It’s minimalistic pallet of blacks, whites and dark navel color-blocking was based on the work of surrealist German-French artist, painter and poet Jean Arp. Garments also took references from villagers minimalistic work wear in terms of casual widths and longer lengths, a high number of slits and compartments, adaptive details and use of waterproof materials and rubber coating, giving it an urban outdoor feel.

The minimal but functional collection gives the wearer extra layer of confidence for sure and seems perfect for our Dutch modern day city dweller that has to deal with constant shifts between casual and business, but especially the hot temperatures and heavy rain showers that we have to deal with every summer.

Judith van Vliet x Chris van den Elzen LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS16

Deep ocean diving is something we normally do under strict surveillance. But Dutch designers Judith van Vliet and Chris van den Elzen took us 14000 feet deep in just a split second. No wetsuit or snorkel needed. Just your eyes, to admire and explore life beneath the waves, with its mind-blowing creatures lightening up the darkest waters and also, hopefully, our feeling of responsibility. “With this collection we wanted to show people how incredibly beautiful the ocean is, with its colours and interesting creatures like jellyfish, plankton and algea. The oceans are the lungs of our world, so we should take good care of it. But we don’t seem to realize their importance, if you look at the heavy pollution that’s going these days. There’s not enough attention for this huge world problem.” So the designers took a good shot at it.
It was translated into a colour palette of different shades of blue, black, whites and coral tones. Liquid lines and light,transparant fabrics resembling the fluid water. We saw some skirts and vests with scaly structures. Simple plastic strokes were made into abstract coral-like adornment. The models’ faces were painted with bold blue tones and soft sparkles on their eyelids reaching over the eyebrows combined with a semi wet hair look. Normally ending rock bottom is something we would avoid by any chance. But this time it wouldn’t have been so bad to stay a little bit longer below the surface.

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