Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Let’s hear it for the Lions is the theme of Dutch designer Liselore Frowijn’s collection for fall 2016. Art has been an important source of inspiration in het work and for this collection Liselore Frowijn would like to give a big shout out to all feminine artists making a change and showing  a different perspective. The collection is an homage to all  strong women who are living or have been living in this world, with Niki de St. Phalle as a muse. The beautiful round volumes this artist created with her Nana’s together with the energetic and edgy approach the women Frowijn admires have towards life formed an inspiration to this collection.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

The afternoon after Leonardo DiCaprio received his first Oscar wearing Armani we all gather at via Bergognone for the Giorgio Armani show. One of the final shows of Milan Fashion Week, but given it’s length a spectacle to stay around for. The 81-year old designer sent out no less than 82 catwalk looks. Seemingly monochrome, yet with sligt touches of pastel if you’d take a closer look. Fringes and flowers seemed to be recurring elements. Floral prints kept popping up throughout the show in small and bigger versions, on dresses, bags, shoes and coats. Still the collection felt sober. Floral printed maxi dresses and embroidered velvet suits breathed Armani’s classic elegance as they passed by. Hair (a springy nest of messy curls atop a double French twist ) and make-up (classic makeup with a nod to the Seventies) appeared flawless. And that finale filled with evening numbers could one by one have had earned a spot on the red carpet at last night’s ceremony.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Spaghetti bolognese, espresso and their fiery temperaments. Oh boy, do we love those Italians. But if we talk fashion, we can’t skip their nation of knitters. Something we seem to forget sometimes, but Angela Missoni will make you remember it in the best way she can. Their idiosyncratic patterns, knittings and use of bold colours make us wish we had some Italian DNA ourselves. Or at least own a beautiful house near the Riva del Garda, with a beautiful patio where we can sip our homemade wines all day long. As perfect as this sounds (we know, working on it), that’s how imperfect this collection was. Not in a bad way, but if you expected anything super matchy-matchy, here’s your sorrynotsorry. Because the many layers of color and pattern in each piece may not match in a classic way, but worked surprisingly well as a total look. Stripes, zigzags and checks on every level and in every way, from oversized cardigans, dresses, tunics and sweaters to chunky beanies and almost floor-sweeping scarves. Towards the end the more eighties and bohemian slim-cut disco dresses and plissé maxi dresses in shimmery black and silver showed they can do more than just drown us with what once made them so famous.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Jil Sander’s dress code for autumn 2016 seem to underline exactly what we love so much about the brand: practicality, sophistication, precision, quality, detail and perfect execution. Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga, at the helm since 2014, understands these highly appreciated values like no other and presented us the image of a strong and powerful woman right there on a platter. If we talk about stylish authority, sign here please. We saw strong-shouldered coats, robust shaped jackets, slightly oversized suits with perfectly cut deep v-necks, below the knees hems, one-shoulder tops and asymmetry dresses that twisted and folded around the body. And who wouldn’t want to try the high-neck white midi dress? The military and androgynous references definitely showed throughout a big part of the collection. But between the ultra clean designs look 3 already showed us a hint of what was more to come: luminous and shiny materials. Spice up the office gear with some rose gold metallic, shimmery knits paired to mesh and glossy or metallic leather. Or opt for a furry sweater or dress to match with your turtle neck. It was a welcoming touch of modern elegance to such essential, minimal language. The collection had a trusted and familiair rhythm to it, us marking some favourites that could definitely make it into our wardrobe, but it won’t be the most memorable show we’ve seen.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Want to unravel the secret of power dressing? Please have a chat with Donatella. If there will ever be a women’s national army, please let them get dressed in Versace. The blonde Italian captain had her army straight in line last night, and it only contained the best soldiers in today’s business. Supermodel du jour and Versace muze Gigi Hadid opened the show, followed up by best friend Kendall Jenner, Mica Arganaraz, Karlie Kloss, Irina Shayk and Adriana Lima. All models wearing military chic-inspired clothing, balancing on the sexy side as well as the sporty side. Because why make a distinction? With the athleisure trend reaching great hights last year (and still this year) those skinny, zippered suits with leather inserts, cropped tops, slim skirts, chains functioning as belts, and flowy but streamlined sleeveless dresses with slits on the side can make it to any wardrobe. The show started off with classic marine blue garments with leather detailing, slowly adding more touches of electric neon colours with every look, from fresh blue shades, block pink,  fierce yellow and coral-ish orange.  Something that was already predicted by the show venue: the room was illuminated by neon lights. Which made us pretty happy and cheerful upfront. Because power dressing isn’t particular in the suit, classy hair, high heels or total black palette. Donatella’s season’s spin on power dressing felt way more fun, comfortable and accessible. And that’s what makes this collection feel so powerful: it’s embrace of the female body and our ability to stand our grand without falling into the high fashion clichés. This is as much ready to wear as it can be.

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

If you were ever wondering if it’s possible to wear a chandelier as a dress? Well, here’s your answer: yes you can. Even better: you áre the chandelier itself. Or follow Sia’s lead, swinging from the chandelier and live like tomorrow doesn’t exist (if you haven’t seen the Carpool session with Sia and James Cordon, please do so as she sings like it’s her last day). And if that was the case (don’t get scared now, it’s just hypothetical), why not dress like if it’s your last day. Make it big, make it bold, make it edgy and never back down, even when everything’s on fire. Picturing the Moschino logo flaming in orange letters, can someone please call 911- the fire department? Jeremy Scott has lit up Milan city. Which he did with giant theatrical dresses with satin bows in purple, yellow and pink fastened with shimmering brooches, strapless ruffle dresses combined with a t-shirt underneath, a black floor-sweeping dress embellished with chains, a pink strapless dress with a leather bodice. If you’re more into playing it cool on the down low, you have the zip-adorned black leather, lots of denim items, hotpants, t-shirts with playful Moschino prints, fishnet tights and biker boots. Finish it off with some big accessories like a ‘Warrior Milano’ belt, leather caps, black leather gloves and as many chains as you can get. It was only towards the end that everything got the fire lighter treatment: burnt holes and sweeps of black and grey. But what would you expect with those fierce attitudes and cigarettes hanging in those ears? So we couldn’t help but playing Jimi Hendrix’s Fire over and over again in our heads. ‘Just play with me and you won’t get burned. Let me stand next to your fire. Let me stand next to your fire.’ 

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

 

Massimo Giorgetti (MSGM) has geared up to show his second main collection for the luxury Italian label on the runway. He’s following up Peter Dundas as creative director, who was at the helm of the brand for seven years and has left to take charge at Roberto Cavalli. His aim: to keep working on and developing the playful, childish and sometimes crazy looks that’s signature for the Italian Brand, but at the same time finding new routes to fit this. As an Pucci woman you’re not afraid of any eye-popping hues (Dundas has transformed the brand into a hyper-coloured gathering) or eccentricity, and that’s exactly what he showed for this season: lots of colour and print, but in a less sexy and poolside glamour way than we used to. So it was quite surprising he put his focus on outerwear and active wear, something the brand wasn’t particular familiair with. But hey, that’s what exploring new path ways is about and Giorgetti took a good shot at it.  Most visible in the skiwear staples like zip-up leggings, onesies, oversized ski-style sweaters and it was impossible to miss the alpine and mountain-range prints presented in almost every look. Sometimes really obvious, sometimes more arty translated in a scene of colours on easy-going sweaters, Pucci-logoed shirts, shearling coats, puffer jackets, silk-printed midi dresses, pyjama-style separates and knee-length skirts. What better way to ensure your safety by wearing such bold colours and prints, at least they will find you in a sec. Would that be most practical in the form of a yellow velvet floor-length coat, blue leather knee-high boots and a colour blocking skirt? Probably not. But you can never change the luxury hugging Saint-Tropez DNA of a Pucci woman. So who’s ready for a well deserved champagne break in the après-ski?

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear FW2016

The Burberry-collection for fall is a polished, high-shine medley of some of Christopher Bailey’s passions: military tailoring, the Mitford sisters, the Bloomsbury Group and some of his favorite art and music.
Bailey mixed masculine military overcoats with a battalion of glittering dresses. They came short with flippy pleated skirts; quilted or textured to resemble lightweight tapestries, or long with fluttery sleeves in a nod to the bohemians of Bloomsbury.
The designer also worked with lamé, Lurex and real metal yarns to give his silhouettes an insectlike iridescence. Sometimes, shine came from crystal embellishment and sequins, as in a cluster of minidresses that shone with a magnified flower pattern.
Outerwear — when it wasn’t doing military duty — came in materials such as bright green python, blanket plaid, technical down, high-shine leather and with details such as oversize toggles and fur.

Mary Katrantzou Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear FW2016

For her fall collection, Mary Katrantzou translated her inspiration (an early commitment to American ’50s Western styling) into a collection of colorful and sparkly cowgirl clothes. Models tread an aluminum-foil runway in boxy rodeo jackets, shirtdresses and sheer dresses, all plastered with appliquéd hearts, stars and flames. The designer made a good case for a tooled leather pencil skirt, and the slightly pervy blouse — a sheer black polka-dot one, and a chestnut ciré silk yoked version — all of them “off” enough to be cool. At the end, there was a finale of extravagant dresses in tulle, several of which could find their way to the Oscars. But actually, it was the simple shirtdresses with manically jeweled panels on the front that came out as the winners.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear FW2016

Garteh Pugh sent out a strong message with his fall-collection: women are in charge. The powerful show was hinged on demonstrative, strong-shouldered tailoring with tinges of Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana.
It’s been a while since skirt suits stalked a European runway, and Pugh’s were streamlined and compelling, whether in camel, prince of wales check or an electric blue wool covered with embroidered stars.
Flaring pants were another key element in this ode to Eighties power dressing. They anchored a bounty of terrific coats: mannish and military ones with big gold buttons; cozy wrap numbers with built-in shawls; and dramatically flaring swing styles with cape effects.
Runway gimmicks included Hannibal Lecter masks and briefcases handcuffed to wrists, adding a disquieting frisson to what Pugh called an exploration of “the visual codes of raw female ambition.”

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