Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear Fw2013

Inspired by the Asgarda tribe, a group of Ukrain warrior women who segregate themselves from the everyday world to become strong and independent the designs indeed seemed to empower as the models wearing them looked tough and confident. They appeared feminine and Victorian in Pugh’s long and lean silhouettes (in shades of black, white, grey and blue) with raised necklines and dramatic floor sweeping skirts. Structured leather and gold embroidered silk looked both Gothic, romantic and futuristic. Simple T-shirt inspired tops with chic pockets (a reference to the Asgarda women) added a new minimalistic approach to Pugh’s line. They formed quite the oppossite of the series of black finale dresses, which got a little more drama with every look. Who would have thought trash bags from a one pound shop could look this impressive?

 

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

As the European winters seem to last longer every year designer Massimiliano Giornetti made a smart decision making his coats the main focus of the show. He styled off at least half of his looks with a statement coat or jacket. Like a pinstripe jacket, a fur coat or a thick tuxedo jacket that might do the job outdoor too.
Besides a few navy blue and plum additions it was an all black and white collection. Shades that made it easier to focus on the design and details, like sheer parts, simple necklaces (sometimes worn in pairs) and tied up Japanese obi-belts.
Giornetti wasn’t trying too hard to be different or go with any flow. He just created a bunge of slightly minimalistic dresses and coats. Nothing too crazy, yet right on track for the woman that loves to show style without putting herself out there too much. His leather coats were wearable and modern, perfect to last throughout an average winter season. Even if the snow is lasting till March, like this year.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Having celebrated his tenth anniversary last season it was time for a new start for Alber Elbaz. He came up with a collection that was about purity and precision, yet not about control and minimalism, so he stated.

Elbaz worked on “deconstructed classicism.” He used smoking references and mixed them up with Japanese influences like kimono details and obi belts. He added a sexy dose of asymmetry, which was about the sexiest on a black bathing suit, matched with a pair of pants.

Constructed futuristic party looks full of metallic details followed. Though super modern, all the black & white made the designs appear classic. Next to his signature draping Elbaz used quite a bit of folding and of course his popular one shoulder dresses made their appearance.

A finale of several duo colored satin dresses was a cheerful closing to an all black and white show, that perhaps breathe classicism yet definitely was the beginning of something new.

Winde Rienstra & Marije de Haan Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013

Winde Rienstra
Standing here for the fourth time, Winde Rienstra is not a new face anymore at Amsterdam fashion week. She’s slowly putting herself out there as one of the new great talents showing here. And so far, she’s doing a good job.

Rienstra’s work is known for the handcraft, strong details, graphic shapes and the fact that she’s not afraid to experiment with several and sometimes complicated materials. And that’s what she showed us again today. The show started with a video portraying the different materials she worked with for this collection in a kaleidoscopic way. We saw sequins, silk, wool, and even pieces of Lego. Materials with totally different characters, but Rienstra knows how to make them work together and how they can intensify each other. Soft and hard reunites effortlessly.

We saw some long, silk dresses in soft colors like white, pale blue and salmon combined with wooden keen-edged constructions and revised with embroidered details. A faux fur skirt had knitted flowers on both sides. And the shoes, made of Lego that made the models cradle sometimes, screamed structure.

Although her designs may not always be easy or comfortable to wear, it was a nice collection. Rienstra knows what she’s best in, but is not afraid to renew herself. And that’s what we like about her.

(Eva Dusch)

Marije de Haan
Uncommon runway models walked in this afternoon’s Marije de Haan fashion show. Bearded, tattooed, stout, short and old guys played the part of Marije de Haan’s sailor men. They sported sailor underwear, carried bottles of beer in leather sleeves in their hands and did in fact appear slightly drunk.

Marije created striped ‘underwear’ shorts, checked buttoned tops and what appeared to be two combinations between a cape and a blouse. Dutch flag details were visible on a leather-ish/fringed, three colored jacket, a knitted scarf and a top with a flag attached to it. One of the guys even wore a line of dirty, striped and checked red  – white – blue flags around his neck.

Two tough bearded guys were dressed in the most adorable designs; one nude colored lace ensemble and a heart printed pair of pj’s. We can already picture them strolling around in the harbor on their Palladium boots on a Sunday morning.

“That can half up the sails that can swallow the moon. And he drinks, and he drinks, and he drinks once again.”

 

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

There were several really great aspects of the Gianfranco Ferre show today, inspired by Helmut Newton’s photography.

1. Designers Frederico Piaggi and Stefano Citron chose the most stunning shades, from deep emerald green to beautiful burgundy.

2. They opted for strong, architectural looks, which made the models look elegant and confident.

3. They, as did many other Italian designers, played with texture in a modern way.

With a focus on cut the designers created the most original, asymmetric looks. They emphasized the models’ waists by lines or belts and gave the girls more appearance by adding multiple collars.

Unexpected shapes and thick unflattering materials gave the collection a daring allure, which very well fits with today’s trends. Piaggi and Citron may be new at the Italian fashion house; with this collection they surely are on the right track.

Goodiebag!? Sjaak Hullekes Catwalk Fashion Show FW2012

The goodiebag contained

magazine James

Diary 2012 Paperblanks

Photo cover Prada LG

Two books of Sjaak Hullekes New collection

Estimated Value: 10 euro

Rating: 6

 

Collectie Arnhem Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

Today Collectie Arnhem presented it’s new collection designed by a group of ArtEZ students. Their designs came with bold stripes, enormous ruffles, sequins and neon colors. Male and female students walked the catwalk to the loud beat that was played in high heels and bright stocking. They wore pants with enormous legs, wide tops and long stiff dresses. Their faces were neon colored and they wore bright caps. It felt a bit like a circus but we certainly got a positive vibe from it!

 

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Bohemians were the characters Ennio Capasa of Costume National was thinking about, as an antidote to a materialistic direction that he sees society taking. Capasa called his collection a remix of his dark roots and all his experiences over the years.  There were  space-age boots,  punky mohairs, and  teddy-boy proportions, all elements we’ve seen before in Capasa’s collections – which point towards his passion for British youth cults.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

His prints of flowers and barking dogs were all over streetfashion during the last fashionweeks, and Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy is surely held responsible for the fact that fashion moved into a print-loving direction. But after two seasons of prints and black, the designer took the undersea world as his inspiration.

Tisci expressed in his show notes a desire to explore “a more romantic side….The general attitude is softer.” So the powdery colors, undulating peplums and sheer fabrics were indeed unmistakably feminine.

The tailoring was strong, innovative and varied. Tightfitted jackets with jabots swayed like seaweed. Skirts had swooping hems or were scooped open.

Starting in white the monochromatic ensembles became glossier, more mermaidlike, with leather slashed into fish scales and head-to-toe silver sequins.

Goodiebag!? Quoc Thang Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

Next time we go on a short trip; we’ve got more than enough small liquid cosmetic bottles to take with us in our hand luggage. Beautylabel Redken, the sponsor of the Amsterdam Fashion Week, was visible in maannny goodiebags.

At Quoc Thang the goodiebag contained:

Useful

Redken – rough paste

Redken – shampoo

Redken – curl wise

Redken – shampoo for men

She – energy drink

Redken – fan

Spam

–

Estimated value: 8 euro

Rating: 6

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