Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

This morning Karl Lagerfeld turned his show venue into a large Chanel supermarket where models, dressed in the latest creations of the French fashion house, did their weekly shopping. And of course it wasn’t just any supermarket. Karl made sure everything was customized CC, from the Coco flakes, the Tagliatelle mademoiselle and the Eau de Chanel to the shopping carts. Grocerie shopping never was this chic. And though all we wanted was to get our hands on those designer groceries (after the show the venue was completely plundered until all shelves were empty) we had to try and focus on the clothes. Leggings and crop tops with turtle necks, worn with metallic sneakers and oversize tweed coats at first. Tweed ensembles and checked skirt suits with sporty sneaker boots later on. Followed by monochrome all leather looks, by metallic creations, rainbow bright prints and girly pink designs. All decorated by large chain accessories, fur details, sunglasses, pearls and grocery baskets as the new it-bags for 2014. Shapes were long and lean as well as cartoon shaped. It was a little bit of everything for everyone really, yet what the designs had in common was their wearability. Nothing too tight, too crispy clean or too over thought. Just a selection of casual clothing anyone would wear on a trip to the supermarket.. Almost…

Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

A sober collection which had British tweeds as a starting point welcomed us at Maison Martin Margiela. First off was a long grey tweed coat, followed by a camel colored sleeveless ensemble. There was a black/brownish tweed suit with strong shoulders and a navy shaded pleated tweed dress worn over a suit in the same color. Midi skirts, overalls and perfectly pleated pants and what looked like a fifties inspired tailored dress were sent out. The focus was on the models’ waists, which was accentuated by small tied leather belts (in camel, red and black). Oh and they sported leather boots, bags and collars too. On perfect pleated pants models sported feminine lace tops, thick Nordic sweaters (again with strong shoulders) and strapless suit jackets. Masculine inspired, but a perfectly feminine collection all together.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

After opening a brandstore in Amsterdam last month Dior made clear The Netherlands form a target market important enough to focus on. So Dutch actrice Carice van Houten being invited as a front row guest (next to Jessica Alba and Rihanna) at this afternoon’s show for the first time was no coincidence either. And if you ask whether those fall/winter ensembles looked suitable for the Dutch woman, the answer is yes. Raf Simons presented a colorful, well tailored, elegant and sophisticated collection women can actually wear (yes even while cycling to work, like us Dutchies do). There were deep colored, double breasted suits to hit the office in. Models wore chic woolen trenchcoats which had ¾ sleeves with long colored gloves. Simons sent out quilted, flared dresses, paired with flared scarves. Bright (fluo) dresses were worn over tank top dresses in a different color. Each and every single double breasted, pinstripe jacket paired with a shirt dress and bare legs looked super chic. Lace up going out dresses seemed elegant for women of any age. And the finale, existing of a number of floor sweeping sheer dresses worn over shorter simpler designs, had a fresh kind of coolness we’d sure like to try.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Sure, minimalistic fashion can be super chic. But there’s nothing wrong with a perfect mix of textures, prints, colors and embroideries, like we saw at Etro Friday afternoon. On the contrary, the show was a feast to watch. Etro may be famous for it’s paisley prints; designer Veronica proved the brand has way more to offer. The clothes had luxury written all over them, with models sporting creations made out of deep colored, rich fabrics. Contemporary looks with a definite vintage touch.  Perhaps those wide legged pants with golden prints looked a little too disco (seventies/eighties) and a brown velvet dress (paired with a waistcoat) is hardly to become a fall musthave, but the rest of the collection had enough modern accents to make it cool. Forget those monochrome printless pieces that have been dictating fashion for the last few seasons; we want paisleys, florals, checks, tassles, shearling, embroideries, fur bags, suede boots and what not.

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Just as Eastern inspired collection themes seem to be fading away, Anna Molinari came up with an Asian inspired collection this morning. She sent her models out on the runway sporting, shiny satin creations, with eastern inspired floral prints and kimono sleeves. Not only was the satin shiny, the designer played with metallics, glitter, sequins and smashing leather too. Heavy leather and fur were in the mix with sheer tulle and lace, hardly ever covering up the models well enough for the winter season. But then again these looks aren’t meant for everyday wear. They were created to make heads turn and yaws drop. Like the finale of evening wear, containing both shiny tuxedos and sequined party dresses.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2014

Where other, normally moody, designers are going for a slightly happier vibe for SS2014, Ann Demeulemeester stayed true to her black and white darkness. Although she did sent out a few looks in bright red, her pale, long and lean models with faces hidden underneath enormous headpieces still reflected the fashion label’s darkness. There was room for some elegance though. Demeulemeester used sheer parts on almost every single look, whether it was on a pair of floral decorated tights, a lace dress or an asymmetric jacket. Stripes and floral influences were put in the mix on several ensembles as wide leather belts (or were those skirts?) and ankle boots (sometimes with peep toes) added toughness to the collection. Whether the Demeulemeester girl is in for showing some leg in a pair of super shorts (the first look) or feels like covering cialis generic drug up in a long and floor sweeping skirt – perhaps dress? (the last look); with a collection full of transparent pieces to choose from she will make an airy appearance in any case.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2014

I Want to Break Free, was one of the songs from the Gareth Pugh soundtrack this week and it viagra without a prescription indeed felt like the designer was in a rebellious phase. It was time for something different, or as Pugh stated himself: “It’s that idea that if you’re pleasing everyone, you’re doing something wrong!”. So his audience was treated to a new kind of Pugh. There were enormous feather headpieces, architectonic larger than life collars, floor sweeping trains and shiny creations made out of plastic. Yes it was an over the top collection, shown by models with drag queen-like make-up. But still the presentation had a touch of serenity too, which came through in the color palette (with monochrome looks in hues of white, black, gray and the surprisingly fresh teal), the clean cuts and the absence of accessories and jewelery. Pugh is definitely breaking free for Spring 2014; let’s hope his clientèle is ready to make this change with him!

Antonio Marras Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2014

At Antonio Marras we arrived in a fairy tale like setting today. Beautiful girls with light make-up and strangely twisted hair appeared one by one wearing the most romantic creations. A variation of printed dresses in pastel shades with extras like ruffles and large ribbons. Prints were nature inspired, depicting peaceful settings with roses and butterflies. More dreamy designs followed in shiny silk, with lace detailing and swags. Horizontally layered skirts had all sorts of fabrics combined from lace to transparent and printed pieces. But it wasn’t all sweetness sent out on the runway. Some tough designs popped up as well. Like coats with cute leather collars, like cool knitted jumpers paired with over the knee skirts, like a few crop tops and a structured bomber jacket that stood out in particular. Leather pieces got a metallic treatment and toward the end prints turned from nature to fantasy. A dramatic finale of loud violin music, maxi dresses and models wearing head pieces decorated with green leaves and butterflies seemed an appropriate ending of this ss2014 presentation.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

After a surprise treat of popcorn and a mini bottle of champagne it was showtime for Lanvin. Showing off Alber Elbaz’ many variations to the Little Black Dress the models were fully accessorized. They sported large chain necklaces with the words happy, help and cool as bees and flowers were stitched onto the clothes. Though most pieces were classic ones – the day suit, the fifties cocktail dress, the godet skirt and the corsetlike top – the collection had a young feeling to it. Elbaz may have doubted his position in the current fashion world (with bloggers and editors being all about getting their streetstyle picture taken) it seemed the designer found back the fun in fashion.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Owens chose a heavy theme for his fall/winter show. Battle-scarred heroism was the inspiration for his signature big coat, boots and T-shirt and a full range of black and white creations. His pale models with the frizziest hardo’s could be seen sporting kimonos, asymmetric tunics and coats with larger than life stitches (which were in fact created by traditional basket-weaving techniques). Large gloves, high standing collars and a few fur details accessorized the looks. Like so many designers Rick Owens opted for a Japanese influenced collection. Yet he managed to use this popular theme in a very unique way, inspired by his notion of heroic grace under pressure.

 

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