Camiel Fortgens Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Last summer Camiel Fortgens graduated at the Design Academy in Eindhoven. For today’s show he expanded his graduation collection KNOWN based on fashion classics like a pair of jeans and the white T-shirt. As a form of criticism against the contemporary cut-copy-paste generation Camiel decided to take a step back. Back to who we really are. Who or what is a man in our globalized, urban society? It turned out to be a man dressed in archetypical clothing. White tees to start with; stiff pants, jackets, coats and sleeveless tops to make them stand out. All made in the most basic and simplistic manner; stitches on the outside and never really with proper fit. They did stand for something though and made up for a strong looking selection nevertheless. There might not be a lot of men copy pasting these designs into their wardrobe. Still, the young designer and trend forecaster made his point trying to bring recognition back into the fashion world.

Maison Laponte Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Maison Laponte kicked off the morning of the final MBFWA day. The Italian label presented a simplistic yet feminine collection of mostly duo colored designs. Long tops worn over maxi skirts and floor sweeping dresses in touches of red, white and black. Viscose, known for it’s ability to absorb moisture and contain warmth, was designer’s Gianandrea Sergi’s main choice of winter fabric. The zipper played a big part in this collection (not the first time this fashion week), forming the lining on sleeves and collars. No accessories, but a bunch of zipper decorated bracelets and some extra pairs of shoes, presented on a golden platter. A joyful start of the week and an special experience for the young Italian designer. Gianandrea was excited, we could tell.

 

Smaranda Almasan Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Romanian designer Smaranda Almasan expierenced her AFW debut on Sunday evening. A colorful introduction to conclude the forth day of fashion. Besides color looks were all about layering. Different materials in contrasting poppy colors, worn on top of each other created a unique look. A skirt suit, a duo colored dress, a boxy top worn over a turtle neck and a range of thick woolen coats. A short sleeved coat in shades of orange, black, lilac and camel almost had a Mondrian feeling to it. Small dots, cut out symbol and embroideries gave the outfits an extra playful touch. Although it’ll probably be a while before the guys start rocking duo colored skirts and peplum like tops Smaranda’s clothes are meant to be worn by both men and women. Colorful, dynamic, fantastic!

Army of Me Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Wearable, modern and tough; just three of the ingredients out of the impressive Army of Me catwalk show. The male models were all zipped and tied up in the perfectly tailored pieces. Wearable menswear items, yet never anything to obvious or familiar. All done in black with a touch of orange (which is the new black). Boxy neoprene sweaters, nylon bombers, supple leather jackets, longer length woolen sweaters, baggy pants as well as skinny trousers. Statement pieces any cool kid would want to strutt around in. Leather gloves, laced up boots and innovative bags to go.

Dennis Diem Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

A little later than scheduled a singer high above the audience started singing to us from high up on half a moon. ‘Trouble in paradise’ were the words of the song as Dennis Diem’s inspiration too had everything to do with paradise. Inspired by the story of Lilith, Adam’s wife even before Eva, Dennis presented us a feminine yet powerful collection. Fifties silhouettes (reminiscent of the perfect housewife) as well as menswear pants with loose legs, high waists and tuxedo jackets in black and white. Circle skits from silk gazar and woolen crêpe. Floor sweeping, body hugging evening gowns with crop tops in black and deep red produced from satin duchesse. Designs made out of green iridescent beetle shields formed the most astonishing pieces of the collection. As small necklaces, embroidered flowers (from nacre), elegant nude colored, towering high shoes and old Hollywood glam hairdos completed the paradise picture. Truly worth the wait.

Mirte van Wijngaarden Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

The toughest of men, inspired by the powerful and confrontational Samurai, walked the Mirte van Wijngaarden show. Nomads, warriors with thick eyebrows, hairy beards, messy hair and tough body postures. They sported strong, slightly out of this world designs, with pointy shoulders, long silhouettes, heavy layering. Created out of the most winter proof materials like thick leather, wool and winter tweeds. Attention was all in the details; one of a kind statement necklaces, laimbock gloves and leather bags in all shapes and sizes. A fascinating story. We’re curious to see it’s chapters being translated into modern, every day looks.

Barbara Langendijk Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

All nine models appeared at once at Barbara Langendijk’s show tonight. They practiced a complete choreography making sure every attendee could see the looks from all angles. Clean comfortable looks created only in shades of red, white, sand and black. Simplistic designs with a high level of exposure (sheer tops, see through skirts, breast revealing dresses). The models looked long, lean and classic, their hair worn back in a stylish bun, lips colored dark. A sand timer formed a fascinating backdrop to the serene show, portraying our limited attention span. It didn’t run out of time though. There were still seconds left for a little wave from Barbara and some guests stepping under the rain of sand. Riches from Rags.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Surprisingly light was the show Rick Owens presented us with this week. It was (almost) out with the black and in with the ‘colors’. And even though it was just khaki, sand tones and shades of grey, in Owens’ world those are true colors. He used them on his remarkable amount of dresses (structured, strapless, sheer, asymmetrical and printed). Dresses made out of a mix of materials, both heavy and airy that almost appeared elegant. But even though Owens is showing us this new side of hem, there were still enough signature details (white painted faces, heavy cloglike footwear) to make it a signature and tough Owens collection.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

When it comes to show backdrops it’s hard to top Chanel and it’s enormous decors. Still, Prada has been creating some impressive ones for it’s shows over the past few year. This week lilac coloured sand-dunes formed the backdrop of Prada’s summer collection. Although summer was not the first word coming to mind when looking at the passing creations. Due the moody vibe of the show, the choice of heavy and rich fabrics (the knitwear, the fur, the leather, the brocades) and the first half of the collection containing mostly dark coats autumn might be more of a seasonal match. Nevertheless designs were impressive in the way only Miuccia Prada can impress. Coats, a lot of them, had obvious topstitching and most clothes with undone frayed ends had a patchwork design to them. With 30 different types of brocades worked into the collection, creating modern pieces of reproduced antique textiles. Something old turned into something new; luxurious yet undone. Elegant earrings, knee socks and oddly shaped blog boots put the Prada S/S2015 look together. A look returning models (after quite a period of absence) Gemma Ward (opening) and Lara Stone (closing) were able to pull off fabulously.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

‘We are wearing Valentino!’, a pregnant Olivia Wilde mentioned at the Oscars on Sunday evening. And today there were more than a few Academy Award-worthy dresses at display during the brand’s fall/winter show. Starting off with quite a bold, colored print, inspired by Italian Pop art from the sixties and seventies, Valentino began young and playful. Midi skirts and short, yet long sleeved, flared dresses popped up in shades of red and pink. The silhouette than got a little more elegant and laid back, when longer, looser dresses and jumpsuits appeared. A selection of capes paired with skirts and leather boots made up for sexy yet sophisticated autumn looks. Quickly followed by romantic winter floral printed dresses, above the knee as well as the midi length. More flora and fauna inspired prints (on both dresses and heavier coats) came in the most beautiful color combinations. Materials like leather, lace and wool were all in the mix and a lot of attention was paid to details. Like the embroidered flowers, the butterfly appliqués, sequins and touches of metallic. Not to mention the perfect little handbags to match every single look. A few pairs of gray pleated pants were introduced towards the end, combined with turtlenecks and pieces with a large check pattern on them they looked refreshing yet classic. Oh, it’s too bad Anna Wintour had to watch from the second row. Especially the finale was like a fairytale full of long, sheer, airy, warm shaded, floor sweeping, Oscar proof dresses for next year.

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