Trend Report FW2016: Shine your way into the new year

Fall season represents the end of bikini’s and other sexy summer wear, but it has its charme on its own. And that brings a noticeable -and likeable- shift in the amount of clothes and fabrics we wear. Of course, we need to get more warm and comfy, but that doesn’t mean we can’t still be alluring. For the women who love anything shiny, the designers haven’t let you down. On the contrary, the catwalks were dripping in shiny fabrics. Some went for full-on, dazzling (Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton and Cavalli) others more demure and sophisticated (Margiela, Philipp Plein and Liselore Frowijn). Translated through metallics, satin, brocade, soft silks, sequins and sparkly embellishment. But the main thing to remember for this trend: it’s highly wearable. You don’t have to be a model to pull this one off. You don’t have to pretend like you’re walking on a catwalk or you’re about to attend The Grand Ball. Any of that, most of these looks are suitable on a daily basis (okay, the dresses might be quite challenging at the office) and especially this december month. So don’t be afraid to throw on a shiny bomber jacket as seen at Alex Wang or a toned-down shiny wintercoat spotted at Valentino. So chop chop, get on it and make some space in your wardrobe for this holiday-ready fashion statement.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear Spring 2016

“Let’s get digital, digital. I wanna get digital. Let’s get into digital.” The first song (a parody of Olivia-Newton John’s ‘Physical’) suddenly popped into our minds by seeing the Louis Vuitton’s newest collection, showed in the brand’s brand new Louis Vuitton Fondation. Perhaps it was slightly to bubbly for this considerable tough collection. They choose Moderat’s ‘New Error’ as the (yes, perfect indeed) soundtrack to compagnon the big screens beaming futuristic outer space lights. The fully packed front row (Catherine Deneuve, Miranda Kerr, Michelle Williams and many more A-listers) was about to take off and rise up into, well, the future perhaps. We were looking at the frontiers of the digital era and took a trip into sci-fi. It was one of the few shows that didn’t look back, but forward. Way forward. A theme like this can be quite challenging for such a big and established brand like Louis Vuitton, but it has proved many times it can translate its heritage from the past into the future. Any future so to speak. Nicolas Ghesquière did a great job finding a in between way making a clear sartorial statement. He opened the show with a a bubblegum pink leather jacket edged up with patent black tape, a black patchwork skirt and heavy black sports-sandals. It set the tone right away: this girl is a tough one (literally, the models had their hands bound like boxers). Even so is her wardrobe. Dazzling silvered dresses and coats, ‘oily’ holographic sheen, metallic puffball or bubbled skirts, shiny knits, in-your-face zippers running over a leather skirt or on the frontside of trousers. But if we’re talking about IT-items for next season, there might be a good chance the biker jackets with monogrammed sleeves and LV prints will be a huge hit amongst their more youthful and experimental customer.

Saint Laurent Paris Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Spring 2016

The pitch-black story continues. After the rock stars slash groupies from the fall 2015 collection and the dark menswear collection from last season, LA-based designer Hedi Slimane decided to roll out the black carpet even more. It felt like diving deeper into this young rocker chick’s wardrobe. Add a splash of Courtney Love (who was actually there at the show) and Kate Moss and you’re ready to bake the cake.

When we heard that the primary source of this collection was the everyday wardrobe we were kind of surprised. Because everyday it was: a white cotton camisole teamed up with a regular jeans and trenchcoat or a biker jacket with jeans. We even spotted blue denim dungarees with wellie boots. Everything but the familiar Slimane DNA. Luckily for the true Slimane admirers and buyers, between the more casual garments, there were plenty of sexy I-dont-give-a-fuck dresses, half hanging on your shoulders, and little nighttime pieces that leave your breasts out in the open. All silky, glittery or covered in animal print. Yet again we saluted the mini slipdresses (a huge trend for next spring!), but also drapey bias gowns and the finale existed of almost all-black gowns with high center-slits that will make you wanna find (not wait for) a party. Any party, that is. Or throw one yourself. Add a oversize denim jacket, motorcycle jacket, golden varsity jacket, or furry vest and you’re ready to go. Oh wait, before we forget: perhaps lose the frown and pout. You can wear the most gorgeous dress and even a crown, but in the end it’s the face everyone will remember.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Check, check, check. That’s how Stella McCartney opened her spring 2016 show. All in vivid colours such as red, green, black and yellow. Some of them as preppy polo shirts, as one shoulder dresses or maxi-skirts and tanktops. It was the perfect start to give you this relaxed, summer vibe.

It was a typical McCartney collection: sharp, simple tailoring with a feminine touch and a considerate approach to wearability. Because she knows like no other how to design clothes that actual women really would like to wear. In Dutch we have a saying for this, and it sort of sounds like: from a nice plate you cannot eat. Which means: only beauty won’t work. But that doesn’t seem to be the problem for McCartney. Her collection breaths comfort, and we were breathing ‘oooh’s’ and ‘aaah’s’ of excitement. The plissé pleated top over a plissé pleated skirt both in contrast zingy colours, the asymmetrical poloshirts worn over body-con stretchy skirts, and raw indigo denim looks. The familiair elliptical hemlines and slouchy tailoring was there as well. The collection ended with a range of lovely black and white, orange, yellow and blue (evening)dresses, providing discreet glimpses of skin and with sporty mesh inserts. Super sexy and feminine, but no I-cant-breath-or-move-in-this-dress situations. And that’s what we thank her a million for.

Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Before the show even had started, the Celine team had people already talking about the huge tented space in yellow, orange, red and blue. It was designed by the Danish artist Fos, also known as Thomas Poulsen, and a longstanding collaborator with Philo on furnishings in several Céline stores worldwide. The backdrop is always one of the first signs to see what’s on the menu for spring 2016 and this tent symbolized the feeling of freedom. Pack your tent and you can go anywhere you want.

But although you’re on holiday and decided to go camping, you still want to look your best. Philo understands like no other. The main question for this collection was: how do clothes make you feel? Or more importantly: how do you want them to make you feel? According to Philo, it’s powerful, strong, sexy, feminine and free. She doesn’t only creates clothes she likes to wear herself, but simultaneously the kind of clothes that other women might actually want to wear. From the fashion editors to the main stream audience and from New York to Japan. And we’re sure same goes for this spring collection. If you were wondering how to combine soft refinement and duty or how to balance between strong and feminine, take a close look. We counted many strong and structured silhouettes layered over soft and fluid garments, like a leathery tunic worn over a soft blue flowy t-dress or a minimalistic halter top teaming up with classic checked trousers. Philo also did a turn with lingerie, like she did for fall 2015. The lace-trimmed black and white silk slip dresses that opened the show are the perfect comfy summer wear, surprisingly combined with sturdy ankle boots and a perfectly strong tailored coat worn over it. But it could be easily worn as negligees as well. The smooth braids, bold red lips and eye graphics only empowered every look even more.

Commes des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

Rei Kawakubo always have been part of the most fearless designer pact. And that’s what she showed today, adding another show in her range of extremely challenging and extravagant collections. Will we see anything recognizable as clothes? Not much. It was big, weird, in-your-face and anything but commercial. We were looking at monumental sculptural creations in deep and icy blues, based on her theme ‘blue which’. But is it a good or bad which? We weren’t sure. The big red plasticised afro’s covering the models faces, and black painted doll lips were kind of frightening. Same goes for the voluminous garments, that seemed to be a lot of everything, but we were actually looking at a black large coat with white cotton ruffles all the way down the front, a black shiny velvet coat, a pleated black wool and velvet coat-dress or an ice blue and navy dress with exaggerated sleeves. It was the cascade of marabou feathers that gave the harsh looks a softer and more playful touch. The idea behind all those layers and volumes was turning the clothes into a refuge from the world in times of crisis; a place where we can safely bury ourselves and where we can be who we want to be. When we have such a space in which to reflect, we remember who we are and what we value. Something Rei Kawakubo knows by heart. It may not be commercial and wearable, but Commes des Garcons has grown against all odds into an independent worldwide multibrand.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

From what planet did these models came from? Or is this future Africa? We weren’t quite sure. The collection, which was represented at the Paris museum of the history of immigration, showed us oversized neckbands, wild animal (lace)prints on dresses and a whole range of beautiful bold colours: bright yellow, royal blue, olive green, orange, white. It definitely felt fresh en summery. The animal printed capes hanging over their shoulders and the voluminous draping and folding around the body, we would almost forget we were still in Paris. Although the cornerstone of the collection was the shirtdress, seen in almost every look, we were slightly distracted and still in awe of the spacious head creations (could this be the avant-garde sister of Marge Simpson?) and futuristic tribal jewellery. The big rubber belts and hoops around the models necks, XXL bracelets anchored the sleeves of some shirtdresses or a harness around the chest made out of black patent leather. Although it wasn’t quite clear what the exact message of this collection was, it was quite refreshing to be looking so much forward in time, instead of looking on history repeating itself over and over again. To quote Anna Wintour in The September Issue: “Fashion isn’t about looking back. It’s always about looking forward.”

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Ask bad girl gone good and Dior muze Rihanna to come visit your show (and hoping she’ll be on time) and you know it will get crazy. And so it did. The paparazzi was all over her, while she was attending the red carpet in a pale pink oversized coat from the Haute Couture Fall 2015 collection.

But equally so important was the palpable question that hung above everyone’s head: What kind of exterior would Raf Simons come up with this time? It was everything to express a spring season in full bloom: a sea of blue posies against a crispy white backdrop. Although ‘the sun’ wasn’t properly positioned in the sky, it gave us the first tingles of spring. And it got even better when the models walked down the runway. The collection had to be simple and calm. Drifting away from the embellishments, bright colours and classic hourglass dresses. And thus he presented us ultra wearable clothes; little shorts, cute tops, scalloped hems, chiffon and pleats, smart tailoring, thrown-on parkas and a mainly black and white colour scheme. And if you looked really closely you could see the tight scarves and chokers, with jewels and metal tags, that nodded back to ‘1947’, the date when Dior presented its revolutionary New Look collection for the first time. Not to mention those bags, that got us women trembling for some Dior in our closets. Previous collections may have been more revolting and spectacular, but never underestimate the power of simplicity and calmness. We have this feeling this was probably the much needed silence before the shopping storm.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

It’s probably the most talked about show this fashion week episode. Because what happened at the Rick Owens show? Did we just really see women on women? How? And why? It’s definitely not the first time Owens presented us the unexpected, remembering the African-American dancers or the penis exposure. On Twitter and Facebook it was exploding (#rickowens). Cosmopolitan magazine headlined ‘Models 69 on the runway at Rick Owens’ and The Guardian called it ‘human backpacks and full-frontal nudity.’ What could this possibly mean in this crazy fashion world?

Women upside down, doubling up on limbs, their bodies harnessed to other women. It looked pretty weird and intense. No wonder Owens chose gymnasts and dancers to be his models. Soon enough we came to understand it was all about women nourishing and supporting each other. There was the idea of birth, of women creating new life. Translating this into a sartorial way, Owens is referencing what Leigh Bowery did decades ago, in 1994. It may be old hat, though still enough to get people completely surprised. But through all the theatre, we saw some actual fashion we really liked. The asymmetric lines and draperies against the sharp, cut-away coats. Loose or body-con sportswear against soft fabrics like silk and organza. And his signature black and white color palette was expanded with quite some beige, hints of bright orange and silver and grey tones. The American-born, Paris-based designer may be known for his radical collections and unexpected show elements, but his sense of fashion is still with a capital F.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

When attending a Dries van Noten catwalk show, you can expect two things: there will be lots of colour and there will be even more prints and textures. And you’ll probably gonna like it big time. It’s what we call the magic of Dries. He has been putting a spell on us for many seasons and it doesn’t seem to stop. Do we mind? Not a bit.

Flamboyant, bold, impulsive, vivacious, observant, infatuated, jubilant, kinky, fearless, flirtatious, those were some of the show notes expressing the feeling of this spring collection very precisely. At first sight it was a very feminine collection, with the bra tops, tulle baby-doll dresses, lots of sheer fabrics, brocade and jacquard, ruffles and many 1940’s en 50’s silhouettes and references like the sunglasses and arm length gloves. Van Noten added sparkly embroideries and sequins on to the already shiny fabrics and exuberant prints. The clashing colours such as mustard, purple, hot pink, orange and gold didn’t hurt our eyes at all. It was the rock ‘n roll victory hair roll (a Gwen Stefani No Doubt kinda style) and layering that gave it the unexpected and less serious twist, like the bra tops and blouses worn over tattoo-print sleeves and tulle tucked underneath bra’s. The double-breasted jackets, oversized blazers, slouchy trousers with exaggerated bows and some hands in the pockets gave it a more manly touch, to balance it out in that tangible Dries van Noten way. This is a woman well aware of her femininity and elegance, but she never likes to play it completely safe. On the contrary, this was the perfect dress up party.

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