MENSWEAR TREND AW2016/17: Pink suave

It’s 2016 and in that sense anything goes for our dear men. And in the category of gender-fluid trends, there’s one trend having a huge moment: pink! We’re talking any kind of hue: coral, salmon, rosé, fuchsia or pink panter-ish. Pink has a controversial background and history in menswear, and for long time it has been a huge sartorial no-no, considered a colour for only women, queers or Oxford men. But thanks to icons like Sonny Crockett (Miami Vice) and John Draper (Mad Men), pink is becoming more of a new neutral tone, like white. Even the manliest man figures on this planet can pull it off big time (looking at you Drizzy Drake and Cristiano Ronaldo) .

Perhaps it started with the Adidas Stan Smith collaboration in baby pink, and we noticed many pink pastel tones in previous catwalk seasons. And when colour authority Pantone named rose quartz as THE colour of the year, there’s no question about why you should be wearing pink this year. Only HOW you gonna wear it. Especially if you look at the many catwalk examples: Kenzo, Etro, Ferragamo, Westwood, Gucci, Versace and many more. They all have their own spin on this bright and cheerful colour. Even as a bomber jacket (check Givenchy) is pretty darn cool, don’t you think? And a trend rarely makes its way so quickly and directly to the high-street stores. Now there’s pink everywhere, cheering up the streets. Before you get to excited (and you have the right to be so) and jump on it, this is how to nail it without looking like you robbed your little sisters wardrobe: keep it simple and classy, team up with darker ‘masculine’ colours and avoid sparkly embroideries.

MENSWEAR TREND AW2016/17: The metallic dream

We hate to say this but: the end of summer is not so far ahead anymore. And as much as we like to postpone the colder and darker days and lengthen those endless summer nights, there’s also much to look forward too: like a new winter wardrobe. So coming weeks it’s time to have look at the menswear agenda for the season to come. And you better be ready, because there’s lots of new and exciting things to come and to fill your wardrobe with. Just follow our lead…

The designers have a new trend on their creative hands: metallics. And with the Olympics in Rio it shouldn’t be too surprising that a group of designers is going for the gold. Metallics are making a comeback once again, and the results are nothing but f-f-flashy (for all our Dutchies: this song is your best compagnon). Not all men will feel excited when thinking of metallic coats, a pair of metallic trousers or shiny bomber jackets, but high fashion labels like Donatella Versace, Calvin Klein, and Emporio Armani showed that a bit of shine doesn’t mean lack of masculinity. At all. They featured a range of metallic tones such as silver, gold and even shiny blue in a very cool and manly way. The reflective materials add an fresh and futuristic touch to every day and night wardrobe.

This may not be the most easy trend for men (not even for women!) to adapt and it can quickly feel a little over the top, but you can definitely make it work. To make sure you won’t get the peacock effect (yep, there’s a high risk), balance is key to pulling off this look. Metallics do best when they complement your outfit and not being the main essential. So start of slowly, by wearing accessories or flashy shoes, and easily make your way up to the trousers or tops. And try to match the metallic tones to other colours in your outfit. Now, that’s what we call a winners look.

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

What a nice tropical surprise on such lousy summerdays like these. Hearing the crickets sing while sitting between huge decorations of colourful flowers and plants. The show was called ‘Afropolitan’ and tells the story of tradition and development, identity and the power of the African woman. To get the most out of it, Liselore joined forces with Vlisco, a famous Dutch company that produces and distributes fashion fabrics for the West and Central African market. She was inspired by the many colourful fabrics she found in their archives. Her muze comes from the Igbo-pedigree, Nigeria. She calls her the typical ‘Afropolitan-woman’, a term that stands for the bridge between old traditions and habits and modern day life. And it showed in every form and fiber.

It was translated into a collection that keeps on developing itself. It all started in 2013, analyzing and renewing prints and colours by adding or skipping layers. Creating luxurious elements by using lacework, embroideries and subtle shimmers. Using the typical Igbo-colours like indigo (earth), yellow (sacred) and red (human) on new silhouettes. The models wearing plants and flowers in their hear and heavy red eye shadow. We also spotted some rich Indian fabrics, like hand painted silks and woven jacquards, giving it a ultra feminine feel. All the while keeping the lines and shapes very simpel and clean, with draping and folding to create some movement in the clothes. It was complimentary for the eyes, but it also makes you question what kind of woman this would wear. There’s a big group of modern urban men (we usually tend to call them ‘hipsters’ and especially living in Amsterdam) that have been embracing these kind of prints for several years now, but what about the ladies? There were definitely looks that fit perfectly in the streets nowadays, but is the Dutch woman brave enough to wear these extravagant clothes? We shall see. It would definitely not hurt on such grey and rainy days.

Tess van Zalinge Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Pretty sure there’s not one single woman on this planet who loves to see herself in white fluorescent lightening. Except for today, at the show of Tess van Zalinge. The venue, that was supposed to feel like a (modern) church, was lightened up by long sticks of white fluorescent light, and it didn’t do any harm. At all, on the contrary. It fitted the minimal ambiance of the collection called ‘Status quo ante’, which is Latin for “the way things were before”. What she means by that? It’s a reaction to the overflow of stimulus, choices and possibilities we have these days. Which makes her longing for the way things were before. Go back to basic, there where it all started. Anna Wintour once said: “Fashion’s not about looking back, it’s always about looking forward.” But is it? Something that’s seriously questioned today by Tess. She thinks we’re too focused on the future, which makes us numb for what is right now. We should embrace the moments as they’re happening. And so we did, completely taken by her beautiful collection based on support, structure and Dutch craftsmanship. Building a bridge between lingerie and upper wear, and innovative twists to Dutch folklore. Which was obvious in pieces like a black semi-transparent bodice accompanied by an black apron (so cool!) or a bright green pleated shirt-dress. Rebuilding the foundations doesn’t mean it will be boring or predictable. Although her signature style that’s highly appreciated, Tess perfectly knows how to leave enough room for your own imagination.

Dennis Diem Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

A fully packed Gashouder is waiting for designer Dennis Diem to start his show. Also the big fashion journalists are present, gathering in the front row. All iPhones held in line to capture the perfect opening shot as soon as the lights switch off. The excitement for the ‘Sweet Rebel’ show is tangible. And who doesn’t want to be part of a romantic fifties movie scene, but in real life? A show that takes you back to the set of cult-film Cry Baby (1990, John Waters). Don’t we all dig the famous love stories about the good girl falling for the bad guy? And good she was, oh la la. The collection was sugarcoated with pastel colours, ruffles, petticoats, silk, organza, tulle, jacquards, lace and cashmere. Not to mention his hand-made bodices. It felt like we were attending high school prom, waiting (and shivering) for our big crush to come pick us up on his motorcycle.

“I’ve never seen such a proper show from Dennis”, someone in the audience recalls. Probably not knowing what was about to come. Because our high school crush a.k.a. The Ladykiller arrived on an actual (!) motor vehicle, and it immediately changed everything into a good girl gone bad vibe (where’s RiRi when you need her). Dennis Diem collaborated with designer Jos Jacob, who’s work is known for leather, bondage and beauty in the imperfection. Leather bathing suits, platform shoes as high as the Eiffel Tower and fishnet pantyhose with a skull hiding your most precious parts. It felt like 50 shades meets 50s romance, talking of a extreme clash. “I met him in the candy store”, the music plays along. Wouldn’t that make love so much easier than it is today? Let’s forget about online dating, delete Tinder or Happn, and channel your inner sweet rebel. Because this is the real deal, and we would die for a ride on that motor vehicle.

Esmay Hijmans + TRINHBECX LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

What happens in room 237, doesn’t stay in room 237. Cause we were all invited tonight, by designer Esmay Hijmans (started as intern at Mattijs van Bergen). Her newest collection is based on the movie The Shining and happening in a dark surreal world where night creatures come alive. What happens between dream and reality? ‘The dark night of the soul is a journey into the light, where she becomes a tender dreamer with an artistic freedom.’ This collection was inspired by fashion photographer Guy Bourdin’s seventies inspired dark glamour. Which means a lot of black, black and black. Feminine womenswear and comfy couture with a bedroom/evening dressing feel to it. We saw some white silky jumpsuits, silk trousers, narrow tops with flared sleeves and lingerie inspired finishing touches like embroidered moths, butterflies, flowers, beads and sequins. And who’s daring enough to wear the black bra with off-shoulder flowy sleeves attached to it?

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The label started by Tung Trinh en Tim Becx, both coming from ArtEZ Hogeschool van de Kunsten Arnhem, first participated in the Global Denim Awards before entering the actual fashion arena here in Amsterdam. This saturday they showed their SS17 collection called ‘Drift’, named after the 1960’s sculptures of British artist Philip King. A big pink paper roll covered the runway, creating a colourful backdrop. And it got even more exciting from the bubbly music beat from Jessy Lanza’s ‘It means I love you’. It was a perfect match with a collection that was all about the sensual balance between masculinity and femininity. Cause where is the border? You probably won’t find the solid answer here on the catwalk, neither do you find it somewhere else, cause it’s all up to you. You decide. But these two young designers will definitely help you shaping your thoughts on this matter, by using heavy shapes, straightforward and oversized silhouettes, extravagant fabrics and quirky volumes that emphasize or negate the conventional ideal of the body. Time to reconsider the definition of male and female. Men wearing a pink patent leather trench, why not? A woman showing off her boxer over her sagging pants? Sure do. And we couldn’t keep our eyes of the ankle length black coat with slits so high up you may want to train your bum a little bit more next time you hit the gym.

Futura Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

It’s the invitation that gives you the first clue of a show. Same goes for the venue. Especially the venue, as it is the white canvas for your work of art. In the case of Futura it was a little bit bigger than last time, cause for the first time designers Anne Bosman en Sanne Schepers got to show in the Gashouder (not Fashion Lab). And they did so in a pitch black and ominous environment. People standing in the twilight somewhere on the bleaches, holding enormous black flags, like a big (fashion)riot was about to start. Was it? The pumping music wasn’t any prove of the contrary. And when the lights dimmed, an army of men (and a few women) showed up in the dark. Only their silhouettes sparkling in the small string of light, but it was enough to tell they were ready to take on the catwalk. Which they did in their familiair workwear with a minimal look and slightly futuristic edge. Sartorial tradition meets a mix of contemporary details. Cropped hemlines, layering, boxy jackets on slightly baggy trousers and sturdy fabrics. The minimal suit was worked up in different shades of blue and greenish (which worked so well!) and a little bit of playful patchwork to keep their signature feeling. They also underlined the backpack revolution that has been happening for a while now, a good addition to the cool and urban feel of the collection. If this represents the modern day (wo)man, it looks pretty damn good.

BEAUTYTREND SS2016: Easy beach hair (oh yes!)

Sun, sea and chlorine – the perfect ingredients for you summer beach hair. But you don’t nééd them to get it properly done. The reason why we have piles of argan oil, coconut hair masks and texturizing salt spray is because we want that coupe du soleil all year round. One of our faves is still the Kate Moss ultra natural but ultra gorgeous do, but you have so much more options to try. Like DVF’s seventies power flower hair (that matches your retro, high waisted  bikini), Altuzarra’s laidback Basque hairdo or cool-girl wavy hair like popster Lorde (don’t you envy her hair?!) as seen at Chloe and Rodarte. Even the huuuuge 90’s trend where you pull back all your hair except for two teeny tiny strand at the front (Rochas, check) is back. And when at the beach and the wind blows hair into your face, keep it that way. It’s so Rag&Bone-ish. End your beach day with a party? Just comb it all backwards with a little bit of a crest at the front, we count on the approval by Blumarine, Thakoon and Roberto Cavalli.

WOMENSWEAR SS2016: Give the cold shoulder

Forget about the cropped top, by now it’s basically fashion road kill. But its substitute will kill it just as much. We’re talking the off-shoulder tops. There’s no doubt about it: shoulders are THE erogenous zone for this summer. They always look good and we don’t have to train them like our abs (thank god!). Just put some illuminating (tanning) lotion on your clavicles and anyone can pull of that supermodel-over-the-shoulder-look (or brush her shoulders off like Jay-Z).

The off-shoulder is not just a trend, but a real wardrobe essential. Ever since the 1840s fashion is characterised by low and sloping shoulders. But today’s version has it roots especially from the French riviera style. French icon Brigitte Bardot, who owned this look during the 1960s, wearing off-the-shoulder tops with everything from midi skirts to pants. And let’s not forget about Jane Birkin. A jeans and simple top never looked this good. It’s flirty and fun, all the while hiding your armpits (what else could you ask for?!) And it comes in many variations. From elegant strapless items to ruffled one-shouldered tops and dresses or tight cut-out pieces, there are plenty of ways to work this trend. Team it up with a cool pair of boyfriend jeans, culottes or suede A-line skirt for a grown-up 70s vibe. Here’s how to wear the key pieces.

ROUND UP MILAN MENSWEAR SS2017

Knock knock! Who is it? The most stylish man in Italy. And he’s wearing everything you need to know (and want to have) for coming season. Cause it’s Men’s Fashion Week (yes, we cheer for that!!) There’s an entire man squad making its way through Milano right now looking better than ever. And what can we say: this will make you want to update your closet sooner than later. Time to round up the 8 strongest looks from the catwalks.

Wether you go on a hiking trip, a walking tour, on safari or exploring a city, make you sure you look as fine as our Milanese men right here. The outdoor trend is presumably started by Versace. You no longer have to be ashamed wearing nylon zip-ups, backpacks, athletic leggings and a good ‘crocodile hunter’ hat. That’s the way to go. Also seen at: Moncler, Prada.

Three’s a trend: enter the modern journeymen. The idea that traveling is all about comfort and ease, no, we’re not taking it anymore. You have to look good while exploring the world, and that’s even possible in a suit. And how obvious can it be with Prada shirts covered with hand-drawn symbols of world travels. You better book that ticket fast. Also seen at:  Missoni, Marni.

Just like last season, blue is still the rage. And we’re not just meaning blue, but REAL eye catching cobalt blue. It’s one of the strongest and coolest colours for men, but it’s up to you how to dispense it. If you want to go all the way, your permission lays here in Milano. Just ask Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood or Dsquared.

Definitely not just a trend for the ladies, but also the gents got tied up this time. And the proof is here in front of you: Versace, Valentino, Ferragamo, and Fendi all showed men wearing tailored coats and jackets with a cinched waist.

What makes the man? Definitely the suit. What makes a dandy? Same answer. But that doesn’t mean the definition of smart tailoring isn’t fluid. And if you thought so, now you know it’s not. And it’s more clear than ever. The chapter of the art of proportions isn’t finished yet. We still got some pages to turn. The interplay of tailoring, sports and casualwear is rebalancing, playing with new proportions, streamlined details and well-defined shapes. Seen at: Sisters by Sibling, Jil Sander, Marni.

It may not rain that often in Milan, but we spotted a lot of raincoats on the catwalk. Showing you the best gear to ride out the storm and survive the rainy days or quick showers after a hot summer day. Make sure you have a light weighted parka or flashy (silver) raincoat by hand as your perfect battle armour.Seen at: Prada, Versace.

One of the most talked about words in 2015 was ‘gender’, or better said: gender fluidity. Something that not only started by celebs like Kristen Steward and Miley Cyrus, but also the fashion industry is one of the biggest players in this game changing development. And it shows again this season, with men wearing female-considered items like furry coats, flower print jackets and glitter tops.
Seen at: Dsquared, Fendi, Diesel by Gold.

The billion dollar fashion industry may be quite serious on the financial front, but let’s not forget it’s mostly about the fun wearing the clothes. Otherwise the designers will help remind you this. Seen at:  Dolce&Gabbana, Dsquared.

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