Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show NYC SS2019

Could a Jaws T-shirt with a CK logo printed onto it be a potential hot seller? Designer Raf Simons likes to think so. Inspired by seventies movies such as Jaws, Hooper, Ben and The Graduate he came up with a playful collection of deconstructed, asymmetric, unfinished (fringed ends everywhere) looks and a whole lot of Jaws merch. There is not much left of the straightforward, minimalistic, clean catwalk looks Calvin Klein used to have over the past few years. Raf Simons seems to like to experiment for the brand.

The printed (prints were animal inspired and tie dye) tea dresses looked a bit difficult though. Strong shouldered tweed jackets seemed appealing. Leather bodysuits felt fit for a dive into the ocean as heavy knits and graceful pleated  skirts (as worn by Stella Tennant) felt like the best idea. And that loose fitting red beanie Doutzen Kroes sported might just finish off the whole look. Food for thought.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2018

Raf Simons marked his first year at Calvin Klein by filling the American Stock Exchange building with a silo’s worth of popcorn, not for people to eat but to wade through and sit in, for his fall show. This collection was about America.

The collection felt loaded with dark symbolism. With Wile E. Coyote and Road Runner sweaters, sinister but cozy homespun knitted ski hoods, Warhol silver foiled aprons, and prairie dresses done in subversive sheers or with cutouts at the breast. There was an abundance of oversized tailoring, ski sweaters, a leopard coat and wispy silk dresses printed to mimic classic American quilting patterns.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

After two collections, it’s clear that Raf Simons’ approach of Calvin Klein is to mine broad-stroke aspects of American culture, whether out of respect, curiosity or a yen to telegraph to skeptics (if any exist), his appropriateness for the creative helm of one of the great bastions of American fashion. Hence, a prolonged stroll under Sterling Ruby’s latest collaboration with Simons, the rafters now hung with colorful, exaggerated pompoms and banners representing the cheery high school life, but with grim sightings — an axe here or there — interrupting the frivolity. That provided the setting for the show, “Sweet Dreams,” inspired, Simons’ show notes informed, by the Hollywood horror genre and “its depictions of both an American nightmare, and the all-powerful American dream.” It resulted in a thoughtful juxtaposition of pleasant facade and disturbing underbelly, realized via a collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts; Simons used graphics from the artist’s “Death and Disaster” series to recontextualize clothes that ranged from ethereal (ghostly, billowing nightgowns) to cool (coed denim).
Within the social-commentary context, Simons mused broadly and brilliantly on silhouette and materials. He presented Take Two on several very American motifs introduced in his debut collection — the denim, quilts and the color-blocked Western shirts with which he opened. These made an odd kickoff to a show brimming with ideas: modernist nylon redos of full-skirted Fifties frocks, madcap dresses made from miles of yarn fringe, and, for men, lean-cut plaid suits that worked the chic side of geek.

The clothes were often inventive and always impeccable. Yet it all felt a little hollow, observational rather than immersive. Perhaps it’s the difference between an intellectual and emotional approach. Simons falls in the former camp, and masterfully so. Yet horror is an emotional motif. The show notes indicated “a corporeality that speaks of both sexuality and mortality.” That’s a lot to put on a dress — even one with Warhol knives on it.

, our review will follow shortly.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2017

Raf Simons made his debut as chief creative officer at Calvin Klein with a collection thrilled with smart, powerful clothes for women and men. Everything surrounding the clothes sent out a message of efficiency and pragmatism.
His inspiration was all about the U.S. American youth – which is the future for this country. So the collection turned out to be minimalistic, but in a modern sense packed with American references both general and Calvinist. The former category covered workwear and How to Make an American Quilt Parka.
As it turned out, Simons didn’t go near the Seventies, preferring Klein’s tailored Nineties. Despite the stated inspiration of young America, the collection wasn’t all that young. The clothes will appeal, too, across gender. Throughout, Simons showed his-and-hers versions of like concepts, some nearly identical. There were buttoned-up shirts tucked into hip-slung trousers with bright athletic stripes down the sides; matching denim; those sheer Ts over men’s wear fabrics — his, pants, hers, a trouser skirt; spectacular mannish coats under a layer of slick plastic. The tailoring continued in perfectly cut men’s suits, some in vibrant colors; others, classic checks. For women, he also showed vibrant ribbed knit skirts and plastic-sheathed feathered dresses, their silhouette inspired by the house archive.

Calvin Klein Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

Slip dresses are, besides those famous boxers Biebs parades in these days, perhaps the fashion piece Calvin Klein is best known for. So in yesterday’s show Francisco Costa made sure he put some focus on them. He gave the dresses, done in a porcelain palette and matched with simple trainers, a deconstructed touch, straps and fringes dangling everywhere. Making looks feel messy and giving them a certain je ne sais quoi-touch. Pieces thrown on without putting much thought to it. Like you would on The Morning After; the show’s theme. Blossom prints added an extra touch of romanticism to the story as elegant chains gave the finale of silky slip dresses even more grace. A fresh approach for Costa whose CK collections were so serene, clean and minimalistic before.

Calvin Klein Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show MIlan SS2016

 Italo Zucchelli’s collection for Calvin Klein was single-minded, reductive and repetitive — and it was all the better for it. For the designer distilled the essence of the brand — clean, minimal and as urbane as New York City — into his muscular tailoring and military-ish sportswear.

Sturdy fabrics like cotton-twill added stiffness to topcoats and short, strong-shouldered jackets. Zucchelli also employed cotton twills and jacquards to approximate a signature of the brand — denim — giving jeans and jean jackets a worn, yet sculptural aspect. The other main ingredients were military parkas, cropped nylon bombers, boxy T-shirts, and narrow chinos with a wavy loop of fabric tacked to the waistband, echoing the lacquered waves of color winking from sleeveless T-shirts layered under gauzy sweaters.

Some of the chinos and bombers were riddled with enough removable utility pockets to carry keys, smokes and cell phones.

 

 

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

At Calvin Klein we were welcomed by 44 looks. 45 outfits (including Zucchelli’s own) in just as much shades of grey (no, we won’t dare make that joke). Now we can’t say the lack of color never created a dull moment. The double breasted same suit seemed to be coming up three times, only a touch lighter every time. Same story with some overcoats and sweaters, but it was all good. At Calvin Klein you need to know it’s all in the details. Like a subtle and therefore chic leopard print that kept popping up. The perfect Nordic prints on some woollen jumpers. The high waisted trousers. The large chest pockets on some bomber designs and their super short fit. The fur collars and those high boots. Not to mention some of the showstoppers like the XL capes and those patent leather pants. Perhaps the show could have been more of a spectacle. Yet Zucchelli’s still left us with more than enough fashion food for thought.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

Colorful, yet never frivolous were the looks Tomas Maier sent down his Veneta catwalk. His clothes were meant to appear like they’ve lived a life, like an old friend, and due to the faded shades, they did. The looks also had a surprising touch, probably conveyed through the styling since the fashion items itself were quite ‘normal’. Baggy, elasticized-waist, worn in trousers and oversize jackets seemed plain, but combined with silk scarfs, double breasted jackets, two toned brogues, suspenders and perfect leather bags they got a certain appeal. Though the curly haired, careless, on the go models could pass as farmer boys Tomas Maier gave them a touch of luxury.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

Francisco Costa celebrated his 10th anniversary designing for Calvin Klein with a powerful,sensible how much is viagra collection. The strength came in the architectural shapes, the masterful fabric manipulation, a dose of streety chic and even some unexpected details that were anything but minimalist.
The designers started with complex cuts and draping, some with exposed folds in contrast colors, like the slices of orange on a beige double-face canvas jacket and skirt. He also focused on the waist, often with wide bands placed strategically below the torso, most notably on slouchy, denimlike pants that touched the floor.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014

Multiple shades of blue-  from morning sky pale to Yves Klein intense – dominated the spring collection of Calvin Klein. It was graphic, athletic and slyly streetwise. There were color-blocked bombers and bonded wool trousers, or workers in stiff shirt jackets with silver snap fasteners looked futuristic. Interesting were the series of photo-printed T-shirts and sweatshirts depicting salt flats and seascapes at mid-day, sunset and under the stars.

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