Usually sticking to his winning color scheme of ‘greige’ (grey and beige, usually in the mix with navy and black) Giorgio Armani turned a different page at his couture show today. Turquoise, blue, green, purple and pink formed his disco proof palette. Models sported punk black hairdos and eyecatching earrings to match that theme. We arrived at an eighties party. Strong shoulders, high waisted trousers, bandeau dresses in the mix. Armani’s choise of materials like velvet, lurex, Swarovski embroidered fabrics kept things modern though. As did the styling; skirts and dresses worn over pants, loafers instead of high heels. Sequins and feathers added to the luxurious feeling of the collection. Armani may have taken a risk here, turning away from is ever so chic and slightly predictable haute couture. A daring collection turned out for the better. Shocking.
It was obvious that Giorgio Armani’s haute couturecollection was all about the moon. It was in the colors – from midnight blue to moon-white – in the buttons and closures, in the rounded silhouette, in the curvy cutting and in the embroideries made to look like craters of the moon. For evening there were sparkling silver beading at dresses, pale metallic pinks and greens and many shiny sequins.
Surely there are some designs we will see again during the Oscar Awards. Especially the long, figure-narrowing dresses in black with white or cream.
The pantsuit is making a subtle comeback at Paris haute couture, and there’s only one master who can make beautiful pantsuits: mr Armani. He has a lifetime authority on the subject. His show focused on jackets with rounded shoulders over sofly pleated pants. Colors were silver, black and ivory. Armani said he’d been inspired by black-and-white-movie stars, but the collection never looked too retro.