Fashion Focus: all about Ann Demeulemeester

Name of the brand: Ann Demeulemeester

Name(s ) of the designer(s):  Ann Demeulemeester

About the designer(s): Ann Demeulemeester (1959) was born in Belgium. She studied at the Royal academy of fine arts in Antwerp and graduated in 1981. She is now a world-renowned fashion designer. She is married to fashion photographer Patrick Robyn.

Start of the brand: 1984

First collection: 1985
Breakthrough: 1986; Ann Demeulemeester then shows her collection in London. She quickly become famous outside of Belgium. Ann is seen as one of the ‘Antwerpse zes’, a group of influential fashion designers who graduated at the Royal Academy of Antwerp in the eighties (including Dries van Noten en Walter van Beirendonck).

The Ann Demeulemeester woman: is not a specific type of woman. Ann said: ‘People can mix and match and adjust the clothes to fit into their lives. I don’t know exactly who will end up wearing my clothes. It’s like creating a present for an anonymous person.’ Ann does say the women she designs for have a strong personality.

Ann Demeulemeester women: Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, Nicole Richie

The clothes are: never ‘trendy’, their focus is on shape and structure. Ann designs with her feelings and uses lots of black in her clothes.

Type of clothes: outspoken, original, comfortable.

Signature: black designs in outstanding shapes

Collaborations: with Rodney Graham (1992), Patti Smith (1999), Steven Klein (2004)

Awards: Golden Spindle (1982), Culture Award (1996)

Quotes:

• ‘The idea that garments are alive is a big inspiration. I want to fill them with soul.’
• ‘I don’t travel’
• ‘I never planned ahead. I just go from one season to the next. If I ever feel like I’ve told my story in this medium, it’ll be time to move on to another.’

Extra:

• Ann has been designing jewellery and furniture as well. She even won some prices with that.
• In the beginning Mugler, Montana, and Versace were Ann’s inspiration
• Since 1996 Ann also designs men’s clothes.
• Ann and her husband Patrick have been together since Ann was seventeen.
• Regardless of the financial crise Ann Demeulemeester has sold more than ever.
• Especially Ann’s laced up boots were a bit hit.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Wauw, that was a beautiful and very feminine collection Ann Demeulemeester showed today. The Belgian designer – famous for her strong and tough ladies – brought out an almost sensual, ladylike collection with wide legged, supple trousers, short jackets with small belts tied around the waist for a tailored silhouette, classic capes and blood red accents.

Maybe it was in the contrasting colors and fabrics, the wufty feathers, the gloves,  the softer fabrics and focus at the waist – it all made the tough Demeulemeester woman look a bit more vulnerable, and that’s a compliment.

Of course there were her signature boots, leather jackets and harnesses of braided cords and dark sentiments, but the romantic mood dominated the collection.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Ann Demeulemeester

It was an almost poetic show at Ann Demeulemeester, also thanks to the building – the Couvent des Cordeliers. Is it a coincidence a lot of collections have that classic, mysterious Sherlock Holmes feeling, with all the capes, keys & chians ?

Black, white and beige were the main colors and Demeulemeester wrapped her men in belted (fur) coats, jackets and loose trousers. All mixed in that familiar nonchalant way we know from the designer. The chest and neckpieces of irridescent black feathers were stunning and added a special, dark but glamourous touch to the collection.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

No layers at the Ann Demeulemeester-show, no poetry, no mixing of proportions. Her ss2010-collection looked simple, sensual and masculine – but very clean and distant as well – with sparkly twinsets, long silken coats, kimono-like coats and simple suits in black and white.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear FW09

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show SS09

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear SS09

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show FW08

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