Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

On a bright yellow catwalk Sonia Rykiel’s models appeared in looks more subtle than in the past few collection. It started with creamcolored skirts, knitted tops and dresses, which all had a black strip attached to them. They were followed by some lace items (a suit, a pair of pants). Then some pops of yellow, nude, orange and ochre came on. All pretty and perfect for spring.

The collection was mostly the work of her daughther Nathalie and the new creative director April Chrichton, but Sonia made damn sure her signature look was portrayed. The Sonia style was visible in the knitwear, the stripes and the choice of color. So nothing to unexpected, but just the right amount of change to make women hit the stores again.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Leave it up to Viktor and Rolf to set up an incredible stage act. This Saturday their show in Paris was opened by French duo ‘Brigitte’, who performed throughout the whole collection. But instead of them standing on the catwalk, they were high above it in long, colorful pleated dresses, from under which the models appeared.

It was a sweet sight and the models in their candy colored (peach, pink, coral, blue) outfits made it even more sweet. They looked like real life dolls/Barbies (incl. fake pink eyelashes) in their ultra-feminine pieces.

Summer dresses, long shorts, halter tops, trench coats and evening gowns all appeared with larger than life details on them. Like the enormous stitching details, which were used on every look, the enormous sequins, the enlarged buttons and the wave-shaped appliqués.

Feminine fabrics like duchesse satin, silk gazar and tulle plus the use of colored Swarosvki crystals added up to the glamorous looks of the girls.

For a sweet, fun & flirty summer 2012, or an extravagant performance-look (we’re talking to you Gaga, Rihanna and Katy) Viktor and Rolf are you’re guys!

Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

With their hair blown fully in their face Margiela models strutted the catwalk in some unconventional long and lean looks. One dresses was made without straps, so the model herself hat to hold it up. Others were held together by Velcro and countless zippers. There were girls walking around with the plastic clothing bag over their outfit. And nude colored tops made it look as if the models were really naked underneath their black jackets.

Yet as bizarre as it all looked on the runway, there were some good ideas their. Those maxi leather skirts might just become a hit and short sleeved tuxedo dress could be kinda cool as well. If only things were brought to a more normal proportion this collection would be an instant hit.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Our review will follow shortly

A.F. Vandevorst Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Kenya was the big inspiration for A.F. Vandevorst’s spring collection. The designers felt inspired by special African tribes to design unconventional clothes with even crazier accessories and hat pieces.

Their asymmetric looks were layered, fringed, tassled and embroidered to make sure they kept our attention. Military references were placed chests and shoulders.

A color palette of black, deep blue, red and camel didn’t feel very spring like, but the beautiful earthy toned paisley prints sure made up for that.

Headbands and extravagant Mohawk headpieces gave the collection even more character.

Welcome to Vandevorst’s warrior jungle!

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

It was a sweet collection that Marco Zanini presented on the first day of Paris Fashion Week and which he described as ‘a journey through the vortex of cinema’.

His models had turned into elegant, chic women in fifties-inspired, pastelcolored (mint green, peony pink, ivory, lemon, kiwi, orange, blue) designs. Their outfits looked delicate, luxurious and original, made out of couture-like materials and new even some newly developed fabrics. All designs had their very own ‘sparkle’, whether it came from the shiny silk organza or the hand embroidered details.

A long shiny skirt with a grey knitted T-shirt appeared to be one of the youngest, most wearable looks. Shiny, almost see-through jackets looked exquisite combined with over the knee pencil skirts. And those bathing suits just breathed old skool glamour.

The styling made the show picture perfect with cat-eye glasses, organza kerchiefs covering big hair (fifties-style) and shoes varying from sky-high mules to soft suede sandals. This is how you do classy.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Going from the Giorgio Armani show to that of Roberto Cavalli is quite a change. From sober to over the top, from sophisticated to sexy. And we don’t mean that in a bad way. Cavalli was overwhelming as ever, presenting lots of color, gold, embroideries and – of course – animal prints.

Cavalli too, dropped his waist. He even accentuated the models hips by thick leather belts.

It was a super feminine collection even though lots of masculine influences could be seen. Like the sharp looking suits, the tough embossed leather jackets and the suit jackets (with black strips) worn with long evening gowns.

A nice mix of styles for the Cavalli woman who doesn’t want to loose any of her sex appeal by wearing what’s in fashion right now. For next spring she mustn’t worry; the sexiness was everywhere (the colors, the prints, the shiny element and the silhouette), you can leave that up to Roberto.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

With the Milan Fashion Week coming to an end Giorgio Armani presented his new collection this morning. A luxurious collection full of shiny silky designs. The looks were clean and simple but never dull. Low V-necks, sheer fabrics and the beautiful use of material made sure of that.

There was a lot of diversity in the looks; for every cute dress Armani made a shiny pair of pants too. Giorgio Armani’s spring women did feel somewhat middle-aged yet she looked stunning in his over the knee skirts, asymmetric dresses and pleated jackets.

The ending was gorgeous with three models in long sequined dresses appearing on the runway. It just was a great collection, although we would have loved to see some extra color.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

After seasons with neutrals, nudes and black and white today Massimiliano Giornetti brought in the bright colors. He showed a vivid collection full of super feminine looks; silk pants with blouses, jumpsuit and lots of sexy, sophisticated dresses and shiny evening gowns with high slits and big bows.

Most of the designs had gorgeous exotic prints (a mix of leaves and animal prints) on them in great summery shades. Blue, purple, red, pink, turquoise were beautifully mixed and matched throughout the show. The colorblock looks felt a little like last season (the popular Gucci and Fendi collections) though.

But no matter how renewing this collection was; there were more than enough great looks to pull from it for any kind of festivity. The clothes felt luxurious and together with the great accessories (cool clutches and sexy shoes) Salvatore Ferragamo is known for,  they resulted in some amazing summer looks.

 

 

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

There’s no denying Missoni’s popularity. The immediate sell out of the Missoni x Target collection sure proved that. But as wearable and recognizable that more affordable line was, as unexpected was today’s spring collection.

Here too, models looked like gypsy women parading on the runway in colorful, layered designs with lots of jewelry. Tops and dresses were mostly off shoulder and the layered bottoms often had extravagant ruffles on them.

Fringes and sheer mesh pieces made it hard to picture everyday women in these outfits. And even though the color palette (purple, blue, yellow, chocolate, pink) was quite lovely, the asymmetric looks didn’t translate very well. There was just too much going on.

Perhaps Angela Missoni got carried away by the big success of the past few months. At least she felt good about the collection, made for the “happy girl, full of life”.

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