Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear ss2012

Shiny, streamlined and sexy like a car, that was Prada’s ss2012 womenswear-collection. The sweet colors, full (pleated) skirts and carcoats reminded of the Fifties but of course Miucca Prada added her own modern touch by the use of fabrics, prints and accessories. And instead of last summer’s bananas she presented another print that surely will be copied sooner or later: cartoon cars and Thunderbird-flames.

There was more, of course:  grey felt coats with appliqué flowers all over the front in blue and cream or in orange and green; stiff, pleated skirts worn to the knee with Thunderbird-flames in pale pink broderie anglaise; cotton tube tops worn over pencil skirts; cotton house coats in pale blue with lapels in a contrasting print;  dresses with elastic in the waist. This was certainly a collection to be remembered.

D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Today it became clear designer Domenico and Stefano are ending their D&G line with their heads held high. ‘Cause together with their announcement to end with the brand’s diffusion line they showed one of their strongest D&G collections in a while.

After florals and letters, the collection was fully inspired by scarf prints. The most colorful, rich scarf prints came by on blouses, trousers, tops, skirts, dresses and even on shoes and bags! The more clashing the prints were, the better the outfits.

All looks were styled to the extreme; with golden necklaces, earrings, bracelets and sunnies all worn at once. We even saw some larger than life floppy hats. But no matter how over the top the looks were, you can’t blame the designers. They just made sure their very last D&G show was a party and they had fun with it.

And even though we’re sad to miss out on these kind of fun, effortless collections, we shouldn’t be too disappointed to see this second line go. According to the designers the change will lead to their Dolce & Gabbana collection becoming even stronger. Cheers to that!

And watch the video of the show below.

Blugirl Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Today Blugirl’s models looked like they were heading to some kind of tea party. They were elegantly dresses in cute summer dresses, skirts and tops. All looks were perfectly styled with the right kind of shoe, the perfect little vest, a cute little hat and some nice colored jewelery.

Pastel hues, nudes and bright floral prints made the girls look fresh and flirty. It was a perfect wearable and girly collection, which lots of women will appeal to. It would have been fun though, if we could have seen some more of the maxi-looks (the green maxi skirt with floral printed top was one of our favorite looks of the show). And perhaps a good pair of trousers for the colder days?

Anyway, when it comes to party looks the Blugirl will have more than enough to choose from. Let’s just hope she’s a fan of ruffles, sequins and bare legs!

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

The models at the Fendi-show looked like housewives from the Sixties with their beehive hair and pleated dresses with apron-fronts. The collection Karl Lagerfeld presented reminded us of women cooking, baking and cleaning dressed in stiff apron-like dresses, black and white ensembles, bermudas and jackets. It was a no nonsense chic, with the fly-eye shades and cotton jackets, featuring bare shoulderparts and soft, shapely cuts to match the full skirts.

The tufted fur coats of mustard and green fox, wide mesh striped knits and multiple bangles worn up the wrist had a homespun appeal. While the sleeveless cable-knit jumpers – oversized in cream or black with sheer back panels – and the little jackets added a more casual feeling.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

The sporty vibe initiated in NYC continues this week in Milan. This morning Max Mara too, presented us with some very sporty designs. Like oversized dresses worn with leggings and short leather ‘baseball’ jackets.

Yet sport wasn’t the only theme of the show; we spotted some minimalism and some sixties as well. Not the Twiggy kind of sixties though, no it was the pure aesthetic of that decade that inspired Ian Griffiths, head of the Max Mara design team. It was the futuristic silhouette and the clean lines that originated from that inspiration.

Everything looked like it was made for comfort. If a jacket didn’t need an extra pocket, it didn’t get one and all kind of other extras (zippers, belts, studs) were left behind for the ultimate minimalism look & feel.

The many camel and sandtones weren’t necessarily new for Max Mara, but the added turquoise hues gave the collection the right amount of summer freshness. It will be an easy-chic summer 2012 with Max Mara.

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

At Ferretti we saw sheerness in all kinds of places, shapes and sizes. Yet it was never overdone, it appeared subtle and sophisticated, like you’d expect from Ferretti.

The designs looked a little more sporty and minimalistic than before and a little less dreamy, which felt good. Due to the use of brights like tangerine, deep blue,  yellow and turquoise the outfits seemed more modern and youthful too.

Exotic prints gave the collection a hippie kinda twist, yet Ferretti managed to still keep it very chic.

Apart from a few beaded bags the styling was as simple as it can be; no extreme make-up or hairdos, hardly any jewelry, not a lot of layering.

Ferretti let her ensembles speak for themselves and they sure spoke beautifully.

John Richmond Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

With thick eyeliner and colorful lips Richmond’s models paraded on the Milan catwalk today. They looked sexy to the max in their shiny, see-through, embellished dresses. As the show went on the level of sexiness increased.

While some of the first looks seemed appropriate for a business meeting, many of the outfits appeared even too daring for a cocktail party. Like the long black sheer dress with the low v-neck, the mesh top with the strategically placed leather breast pockets or the white/sheer glitter dress with long fringes at the bottom. None of them looks which a lot of women would leave the house in.

Yet the Richmond women perhaps will. They will lunch in the skirt and blouse ensembles, they will join their husbands on a boat trip in some of the simple dresses and jackets and they will seduce others in the over the top sheer designs. It will be a perfect summer 2012.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2012

From the flowing, moody jewel-colored Seventies style to a more constructed, hard and geometric jazzy style – that’s the turn Gucci-designer Frida Giannini took this season. And this anniversary-collection looks quite different. Polished as ever, but with jazzy influences (flapper-dresses), references from the Twenties and Thirties, Louise Brooks, African Art and Man Ray. But also the geometric lines of the art deco style the American way – as in the Chrysler building – and the metallic surfaces. Giannini herself said in the show-notes she wanted to show an optical side of femininity, a sculptural glamor.

Well, glamorous it was, and polished but somehow it lacked a certain softness and sensuality. Maybe it’s because of the mix of equestrian elements like striped, double-breasted jockey-jackets, the green/ocre/white and black. Or the straight lines and hard metallics.

Hopefully we’ll find more of Gucci’s sensual warmth in the museum that’s soon to be opened in Florence.

 

 

Highlights London Fashion Week ss2012

Some 104 shows and presentations in London in one weekend. After one week of New York fashion this seemed an unreasonable task, but journalists, buyers and photographers succeeded. And just before Milan takes off, we want to present you the highlights of London ss2012. Erdem, Burberry, Christopher Kane and Paul Smith all delivered beautiful collections which made sense and also fitted in the trends we saw already blossoming in New York.

Burberry Prorsum

Christopher Bailey was paying homage to all things natural. Skirts with high, tight waists  teamed with form-fitting tops of striped crocheted wooden beads. Woven raffia, in stripes of mustard and navy or plum and black, made super slim, high-waisted pencil skirts under cropped, cotton Parkas. There were African inspired prints for draped dresses, jackets and skirts.

 

Erdem

Erdem’s focus was again on florals, which he re-uses season after season. This time round they were  pretty: buds of cornflower-blue, lemon and poppy-red dotted, off-the-shoulder dresses, chiffon skirts and shifts.

 

Christopher Kane

To create his “ghost fabric”, an iridescent metallic floral that crackled with light and movement, Christopher Kane layered four materials including an organza made almost entirely of aluminium. He mixed it up with semi-transparent dresses patched with flower stickers, washed-out pastel satins,  sleeveless cricket jumpers and flat sandals.

 

Pringle of Scotland

This was Alistair Carr’s debut at Pringle’s womenswear.  Knits were the star, from trompe l’oeil intarsia technique that made light work of chunky herringbone. Twinsets were present too, fastened at the back for summer. There were also silk dresses patchworked together with twinset buttons.

 

Paul Smith

Sir Paul and his team know more about tailoring than any other womenswear designers, that’s why is menswear-inspired womenswear-collections always looks so stunning and perfect. And his use of color is unique.

 

Giles Deacon

The collection and show of Giles Deacon seemed a meeting of heaven and hell. The angelic looks of feathers, silver dresses and laser cuts combined with vivid red detailing to offset them. The swan became the overriding theme, featuring as it did as a print on everything from couture-esque gowns to trousers and tunic and in tiara’s. This was drama to the max.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Streetfashion London Womenswear ss2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-boots, your latest Celine-dress or that vintage Chanel? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: London  Fashion Week.

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