Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
Before the show of Raf Simons even had started, rumors about the designer leaving his commercial partner were already spreading around. And the rumors seemed true, but did not affect the show and the collection at all. Simons sent out a calm, yet inventive collection with a mix futurism (pants in black PVC, mohair aprons) and preppy college style (sweaters, checks, Fair Isle knits). Duffel coats, in camel and brights, were the main statement. One voluminous version came in purple neoprene – worn with a sharp shirt and tie and a scarf – while another cocoon-shaped design in tomato red fastened with a single closure at the neck.
Backstage the designer said he wanted to explore a mix of maturity and youth, and also pay homage to craftsmen.
Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 22, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
It was a romantic and gently deconstructed collection of Ann Demeulemeester with hints of antique uniforms. The designer gave the fronts of topcoats, jackets and waistcoats a used and beaten look, and most of the jackets peeled open in flaps at the waist. She also bleached fabrics to make ghostly patterns, sometimes sprinkled across a suit like a constellation. Pops of blue, red, yellow or orange broke the darkness, Demeulemeester used the colors for tops or they peeped out from under sheer black layers. The high, black ridingboots and leather gloves gave the models the look of a 17th century landlord, elegant, tough and a bit nostalgic
The standing ovation from Patti Smith was well deserved.
Backstage at Sjaak Hullekes
Team Peter Stigter went backstage at the intimate presentation of Sjaak Hullekes’ fall winter collection 2011 in the Institut Neerlandais in Paris. We watched the models getting dressed carefully by the designer himself and we also discovered the beautiful, elegant logo Hullekes has developed for his fashionbrand.
At his blog we read he will be opening his first shop soon in march in Arnhem. Cant’t wait to see the collection there!
John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show FW2011
With his fallcollection 2011 John Galliano tried to tell the story of balletdancer Rudolph Nurejev: his struggles, triumphs and artistry. Of course he studied the life of the great dancer thoroughly and tried to translate every part of it even his idea of hope, discipline , dreams and the way he fled Russia. The show started with a pack of Russian emigres amidst a flurry of snowflakes dressed in heavy layers of second hand overcoats and with all their belongings packed at their back. Further on the show recounted Nurejev’s jet setting years in the Sixties, the torturing rehearsals in studios and finally beautiful, glamorous stage-costumes with Tatar-elements.
Galliano didn’t forget the fashiontrends though, he did send out beautiful militairy coats, chunky cardigans, cropped blazers and some fur. Colors were dark and rich, fabrics soft, wahed and luxurious.
Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
The men’s suit played a major part in the collection of Comme des Garcons, even cardigans looked like a well made jacket. It was actually a very decadent collection compared to other’s we’ve seen of the Japanese label. Maybe it was because of the flowing, silk fabrics used for skirts and pants mixed with slim tailoring. It was a very modern, layered mix of T-shirts, comfy and soft looking jackets and wide pants. The loose fit is something we have to get used to, after years of slim tailoring.
But is all looked relaxed and rich, thanks to the colors and fabrics.
Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 21, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
For next fall Junya Watanabe showed us a different take on the Fair Isle knits, which were a big hit this winter. Instead of showing the print on cardigans and sweaters Watanabe used it on suit jackets and coats in the most colorful examples. They looked comfy and warm and formed a good combination with the ankle hem of the (pretty basic-looking) pants. As they ambled around some park benches, placed in the middle of the stage, Watanabe’s mustached models really worked the new look.
The color palette ranging from bright red and blue to mustard yellow and dark green gave the collection a cheerful twist and showed the versatility of the collection too. ‘Cause whether it’s a 18-year old student or a 45-year old family man, many fellows will be able to work some of the fairy isle items into their wardrobes.
Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 21, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
Like other designers Dries Van Noten seemded to have found inspiration in the militairy world, but more free and luxurious using his strengths as a tailor and colorist. His own comment to the collection though was that he wanted something glamorous without being feminine and that’s where David Bowie as the Thin White Duke comes along. Not only in the silhouette, also the grooming of the models and in the soundtrack.
A battalion of navy jackets and overcoats — some oversize and belted, others slim-line — formed the backbone of Van Noten’s collection. He added removable fur collars and lapels or inner nylon shells in contrasting shades. He showed little discipline in the pants department, sending out skinny motorcycle and oversize Bowie-styles in equal measure. He also played with oppositions: a formal navy evening jacket over a casual white tee: a sleek, chic shawl-collared blazer in traditional camel pinning down the silhouette over huge white cargo pants; a cropped cadet jacket laden with bullion embroidery paired with a chunky hand-knit; dark overcoats in the most traditional English materials layered over their exact twins in bright white technical fabrics.
Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
Jean Paul Gaultier’s menswear show was one big spectacle. It started with turning & flipping ninjas and the introduction of Blond. James Blond, the androgynous model Andrej Pejic with his long blond wavy hair.
The collection was filled with tuxedo’s in the most diverse examples; tuxes with hot pants and fishnets, tuxes with long, navy-buttoned skirts, and a whole passage of neoprene jackets and tuxes with wet suits. Golden pants were padded, jackets were embossed. And in between all that funny fashion JPG also introduced his brand new collection of shades, he designed for Alain Mikli. Pure fashion entertainment.
Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 20, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Paris
Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 20, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
The Louis Vuitton-collection was a pitch dark one, with lots of black, dark-blue, brown and highlighted by off-white and the brightest of red. The silhouette was rather straight and sometimes the waist was accentuated with a belt or ribbon tied around it. It seemed designer Paul Helbers played with the volumes of a down jacket, textures of velvet, leather and fur, the mix of formal with informal. The coat played a big part in this collection, from kimono-inspired to parka. Different fabrics used in one item gave a contemporary look, the shiny and sharp body-warmers had the look of body armor. Luckily the red and white flowing fabrics like silk added some air into the rather strict and sober collection.
