First View Paris FW2011: Surface & Proportion

Paris opens with an almost academic exercise in shape and proportions. Supersize knits in chunky ribbons of faux leather by Balenciaga in contrast with rococo prints on fluid crepe de chine. Miyake shows giant hounds tooth on models wrapped in outsized origami.

Dries van Noten works in clashing king-size graphics reminiscent of Russian constructivism. Pugh and Owens go monumental, composing leather into architectonic and iconic works of art.

But this is not just about the grand gesture. The surprise is in the detail; crafted tailoring, precious surface effects, appliquéd and gilded aspects, embossed and hand coloured leather and ribbon weaves.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

At the sound of a slow heartbeat and Leonard Cohen’s poem A thousand kisses deep Haider Ackermann presented his romantic, serene collection. It lend to an outburst of emotion at the audience. The designer received a long and weldeserved applause. Some tears were falling down.

Don’t matter if the road is long
Don’t matter if it’s steep
Don’t matter if the moon is gone
And the darkness is complete
Don’t matter if we lose our way
It’s written that we’ll meet
At least, that’s what I heard you say
A thousand kisses deep

I loved you when you opened
Like a lily to the heat
You see, I’m just another snowman
Standing in the rain and sleet
Who loved you with his frozen love
His second hand physique
With all he is and all he was
A thousand kisses deep

I know you had to lie to me
I know you had to cheat
You learned it on your father’s knee
And at your mother’s feet
But did you have to fight your way
Across the burning street
When all our vital interests lay
A thousand kisses deep

I’m turning tricks
I’m getting fixed
I’m back on boogie street
I’d like to quit the business
But I’m in it, so to speak
The thought of you is peaceful
And the file on you complete
Except what I forgot to do
A thousand kisses deep

Don’t matter if you’re rich and strong
Don’t matter if you’re weak
Don’t matter if you write a song
The nightingales repeat
Don’t matter if it’s nine to five
Or timeless and unique
You ditch your life to stay alive
A thousand kisses deep

The ponies run
The girls are young
The odds are there to beat
You win a while, and then it’s done
Your little winning streak
And summon now to deal with your invincible defeat
You live your life as if it’s real
A thousand kisses deep

I hear their voices in the wine
That sometimes did me seek
The band is playing Auld Lang Syne
But the heart will not retreat
There’s no forsaking what you love
No existential leap
As witnessed here in time and blood
A thousand kisses deep

Leonard Cohen (do you want to listen to the poem? Click here)

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2011 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The weeping willow that dominated the stage at the Lanvin-show beautifully symbolized the roots of tradition, according to designer Alber Elbaz.
And despite that serious but positive vibe, Elbaz went dark, maybe it were the hats or the soundtrack with hints of Twin Peaks. The show started with plain, grounded, coated and caped looks, with pilgrim shoes and ladylike handbags.  Metal trims were a suitably, intriguing detail. But the severity had to fight itself free during the second part of the show. And the designer helped, wih metallic jewelry, textures, severe but sensual drapes, black lace, knit sheaths disordered by poufs of mousseline, and roses.

It was great to witness the way Elbaz built desire into his clothes, especially with simple things like a nip and tuck of fabric or with a zipper.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

It was not the strongest collection of Galliano for the house of Christian Dior, but is was for sure a memorable one. Not only because of the scandal the designer caused last week, but also because of the fact Dior fired the designer, the speech that Sidney Toledano – chief executive of Dior – held before the show this afternoon  and the atelier that received a standing ovation at the end of the show. In his speech Mr  Toledano didn’t mention Galliano at all, but he decried racism while reminding guests of the long heritage and bright future of Dior (see  parts of the speech below)

Outside the showvenue – the Rodin Museum – the scene was a mob. Police closed the street to accomodate the hundreds of people invited to the show waiting to get in.

The collection – that was finished by the couture house’s staff – was ultra-feminine. It reflected flirty styles from the early 20th century – and seemed primed for flappers, knickered ruffians, and ladies in their boudoirs. Boots were over-the-knee and on platforms, and the bags were big and roomy – looks that haven’t been seen on other runways this season, where shoes and bags have tended to be more prim and structured.

Parts from the speech Mr Toledano gave before the start of the show (quoted from New York Times):

“Since its founding by Monsieur Dior, the House of Christian Dior has lived an extraordinary and wonderful story and has had the honor of embodying France’s image, and its values, all around the world. What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal to us all. It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be. Such statements are intolerable because of our collective duty to never forget the Holocaust and its victims, and because of the respect for human dignity that is owed to each person and to all peoples. These statements have deeply shocked and saddened all at Dior who give body and soul to their work, and it is particularly painful that they came from someone so admired for his remarkable creative talent.”

…

“Christian Dior’s values were those of excellence in all that he undertook, of elegance and craftsmanship reflecting his unique talent.”

…

“The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsman, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and the vision of Monsieur Dior.”

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2011 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Never a dull moment in fashion-land. After the John Galliano-scandal and the rumors about who’s going to replace him, Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin was the next in line to cause gossip and speculations. He was absent from the label’s show and although a spokesperson from the brand insisted he was just feeling unwell and tired, others spread the rumor he was in a mental institution since te beginning of this year.

Let’s hope for Decarnin he is rested by now. And for his collection: it seemed he toned it a bit down, it was actually rather minimalistic – with the black, white, silver and gold. But the designer sticked to the strong shoulders and his favorite mix: skinny pants, jackets, boots, short skirts and T-shirts.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Almost entirely black. Ann Demeulemeester sticked to her own language, and let only a little bit of red and blue speak for itself – mixed with black that is. It was dark, goth and tough yet beautiful, romantic and fragile/edgy at the same time.

The Belgian designer strated with aggressively tailored looks, some cut from hard leathers, and all laced with loose strips trailing in the back.  But the softer, gentler and more feminine side of the collection showed up with beaded fringed jacket and dresses. Dresses were softly draped. Feathers decorated most of the oufits, which gave it a more warrior-look:  Demeulemeester stuck raven-black feathers into wide cartridge-pleated straps, like bullet belts.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again the Balenciaga-collection was full of modern, surprising fabrics, silhouettes and clothes.

The punk spirit of last season seems gone but is replaced by a softer, more feminine theme. Soft, draped longer length skirts, knitted leather, tunics worn over pants, skinny pants with zippers at the back of the legs, soft oversized coats and comfy sweaters made a gentle look. Of course there we graphic colorblocking elements in the collection, andbesides black, white and gray Ghesquiere used orange, blue, brown and green.

Thierry Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The show of Thierry Mugler was the talk of the day, yesterday. Not only because it was Nicola Formichetti his first womenswear-collection for the house – but because Lady Gaga would also be part of the show. It’s great when a designer is supported by a star, but it also distracts you from the clothes that are actually shown. And that’s a pity. Formichetti designs for the stage, like Mugler himself used to do. These are extraordinairy clothes for extraordinairy women – popstars, clubgirls and stylists who can use some outrageous clothes.

The collection was mostly in black, white, pale beige and Mugler’s royal blue, and there were some molded plastic show pieces, as well as animal prints. The silhouette was minimal, with close-fitting dresses that sometimes looked like a second skin. I heard Lady Gaga already ordered some pieces. No wonder.

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