Burberry Prorsum Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Christopher Bailey sent out a rich, chic and sophisticated collection yesterday, with focus at shiny fabriucs and sartorial finish. The show opened with metallic silk in   purple, blue, green, fuchsia, and orange. Bailey worked his metallics into shirts, trenches and onto the collars of cabans and car coats. Another important part of the collection were  bubble-shaped, multi-toned bomber jackets. On the models’ feet dark socks and flashy metallic sandals.
The color palette was inspired by one of Bailey’s favorite artists — David Hockney — while the geometric prints found their origins at the Bloomsbury Group. To temper the vivid colored metallics, Baily came up with slim-fitting and sober suits, in deep navy seersucker or cotton.   Bailey often layered the shiny with the matte, or put a dark, slim-fitting jacket over a long, loose printed top.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

The models at Ann Demeulemeester’s show wore a wild crown of hair, blades and black feathers. They had long leather gloves on their arms and black leather pants that melted into long boots. There was lots of black leather and velvet, but more inbteresting was the inky, midnight blue color. The collection had powerful outerwear and dark elegant dresses — worked in variations and fabrics rich with dimension. Tailored jackets and trenches came cut up into asymmetrical folds with sculpted collars. Long, lean dresses were simple aside from a single drape at the neckline or back. This was surely a tough, graceful women.

Round Up Paris FW2011

There was nothing girly on the catwalks in Paris during the fall 2011-presentations. In fact, it was a very mature look: elegant, dressed-up and in control. Collections that moved from 30’s to 60’s. Strict tailoring created sober and understated silhouettes and the bold sculpturing reminded us more then once of former Balenciaga collections. Apart from these ‘heritage collections’ with their disciplined sobriety there was sheer doom and gloom. As if Paris sensed darker emotions this season compared to New York, Milan and London. We were delighted to meet sudden touches of glam, an unexpected hint of glitter, adventurous flashes of plastic and a single humorous touch.

GEOMETRIC

Lot’s of graphic, androgynous suiting plus black and white blocking. YSL fused rigorous elegance to masculine flair.

HAUTE BOURGEOIS

Prim suits and proper coordinates. Miu Miu more elegant then ever which confirmed the trend for a more grown up and dressed up look.

SOBRIETY: Minimalism to be continued. Precious sober looks, precise, careful and well balanced.

MINIMALISM

At Celine – where sobriety was conceived, there was this constant feel for minimalism: understated sensible shapes that made her simple fur coats look extravagant. She signs for another season of flawless and streamlined urban uniform dressing.

MODERN GLAM

The look that inspired us most. Where doom and gloom, from grunge to Goth, proved itself as a genuine Paris catwalk trend, Haider Ackerman turned it into a feasible and desirable inspiration. Glamorous in precious jewel shades, wrapped and draped generously in fluid silks.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.