Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The spring summer 2013 collection of Donna Karan was about nature: sand, water, light. Abd it was light in every sense, floaty fabrics, slithering shapes and colors like dawn-sky blue and rich sunset pink. The silhouette – fitted-on-top, full-below-the-waist  – was borrowed from the world of ballet, or the 1950s.

Herve Leger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The collection Max Azria designed for Herve Leger was inspired by the quilts of Gee’s Bend, a rural community in Alabama whose women have developed a distinct style of traditional patchworking over the past two centuries. The influence gave the collection an extra dimension seen in geometric patterns and passementerie appliqué details. Versions came flared at the hemline or jazzed up with interlocking chains, a fishnetlike overlay and leather harnesses.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Phillip Lim’s explained in his shownotes that he had been exploring “cut-up,” a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead.  Cut-up is another word for nonlinearity. In fashion Cut-up could also mean mix ‘n’ match. Like Philip Lim did.
Take his interpretation of sheers. One ofe the main trends for ss2013 is see-through clothes which is not an easy concept to sell. But Lim, using obscuring plaid or woodland scene appliqués, made the look modest enough to be convincing. The silk sheers were among the standout pieces as were the patchwork denim, shredded khakis and his printed, corded silk biker jackets.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Tommy Hilfiger and his team brushed up two classic themes – safari and nautical – and made it into an upbeat and interesting collection. It was big and lively, with new  interpretations of sailcloth, stripes, and fisherman knits, among other staples of the seafaring look. The oversized red, white, and blue suit jackets, slouchy patchwork denim, and swinging tent dresses boasting sexy open backs looked refreshing and good. And many of the pieces benefited from unexpected finishes, such as the boxy navy-striped sailor’s tee, with a slick, stiff coating of wax. Yet for all the emphasis on the American palette, there were a great deal of washed-out sandy tones, too. They looked crisp and clean, though not obviously safari-esque, on cable knits and summery leathers.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It was tennis that inspired Felipe Oliveira Baptista for his ss2013 collection for Lacoste. He repeated an abstract version of rackets, balls, an umpire’s chair, and a pattern of folded polos as a print on shirts, pants, and parkas. The color palette matched perfectly: cobalt blue and  orange intensified the shades of summer. Baptista also tweaked the house’s more classic looks, cutting polo shirtdresses looser and working them in bold color blocks and mesh. The clear plastic jackets over cropped tops and miniskirts were especially fun, as was the sexy black leather minidress embossed with alligators.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The models that wore Jason Wu’s new ss2013 collection could have walked out of a Helmut Newton-picture. And the photographer was indeed one of Wu’s inspirations for this collection. So that means lots of leather and lace and sexy clothes, nude and black with leather harnesses, black net veils and deep red lipstick.

A point d’esprit bra ­— Wu collaborated with La Perla on the innerwear pieces — topped a short flounced leather skirt with laser-cut embroidery; a sleeveless white blouse with black lace inserts went with leather shorts. Wu softened the look a bit with lace blouses and cigarette trousers, and sheer and severe dresses.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The DKNY-collection was all the way about a New York vibe. From a rolled-down  jumpsuit tied around the waist with a silk button-up to a coated-cotton blazer paired with distressed denim Bermuda shorts. Other items made an impact, too. Leather-trim circle skirts cut from spongy coated mesh, oversize color-blocked car coats, and neoprene-jersey racer back gowns balanced femininity with urban athleticism.

Meanwhile, accessories including baseball caps, leather knapsacks, fanny packs, and wedge sneakers played a key role in putting the NY-vibe back.

Diane Von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Diane von Furstenberg presented a strong collection full of pretty colors, bold prints and a hefty dose of embellishment.
Von Furstenberg, working with creative director Yvan Mispelaere, layered several dresses over pants, including a draped one-shoulder version with trousers in the same colorful print, and a linear navy halter dress over fluid orange pants. Adornment abounded: She decked out a suit and a top in little metal spheres, which she also piled onto her statement-making heels. Draped blouses with billowing sleeves and palazzo pants added to the collection’s glamour.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It seems Victoria Beckham has decided she wanted to to advance her collection. She accomplished this smartly for spring, most notably by adding chic, tailored separates. From a minimalist baseline, she worked interesting details into coats and jackets, slim pants and crisp shirts, the perfect ease of their combinations showing the hand of Beckham’s new stylist, Joe McKenna.
Yet Beckham still loves a great dress. She also incorporated feminine touches via lingerie details — bra tops and straps peeking out from under dresses — and various types of lace.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The glow in the dark-effect on the ivory clothes of Alexander Wang was a cool ending to his ss2013 presentation. The impression left after a very fast show was one of sharp, minimalist sport. There were boxy “hockey jerseys” worn over tailored shorts — skinny and Bermuda styles — and some of the models wore lacquered porcelain helmets. Wang rarely strayed from black and white, and when he did, it was a few notes of beige leather and gray. The silhouette was  spare and crisp, in stark cotton and exotics, such as snakeskin.

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