It was not the most easy job to take the helm at a house like Saint Laurent. Hedi Slimane delivered his first collection yesterday, ans some people seemed a bit disappointed. Yes, it was edgy, it was chic and it was skinny, but it looked more like a costume parade than a new take on what Yves Saint Laurent created. The first look was a small black jacket with skinny black pants, a white frilled shirt, big, soft bow at the neck anda bigger-brimmed fedora. This was followed by countless variations of the same — the fabrics changing from wool to leather to glitz to pinstripes and from cotton to silk and back. Slimane incorporated typical YSL codes to be developed in the future: tailoring, smoking, gypsy tiers, long evening-dresses, saharienne, animal spots, demonstrative jewelry.
The clothes were good, but on the safe side: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which didn’t scream retro and gowns that women will want to wear. But Slimane needs to add more, a risky sizzle that let women crave for Saint Laurent.
