Dutch designer RVDK/Ronald van der Kemps message is still the same: the only sustainable way forward is by making the most of what’s in front of you. And you don’t need to know about his stance on sustainability to enjoy his work, but it certainly gives it added relevance at a time where H&M sits on $4.3 billion worth of unsold inventory. Through this iteration of his upcycled collage of vintage fabric finds and unusual materials, van der Kemp zeroed in on the idea of disposable clothes, opposing the paper dresses of the Sixties to the “disposable clothes on the high street.”
He draws together his repurposed material in a joyous clash that imparts a perpetual of-the-moment feel. As ever, he remains undaunted at the idea of offering outré pairings, or of being handed materials others may consider subpar.
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In a world facing depleted natural resources, Iris van Herpen’s fascinating biomimicry world looks increasingly relevant. As the movement for lab-grown materials continues to gather momentum, van Herpen this season explored synthetic biology and the intertwining relationships between the organic and the inorganic, biology and technology. The designer even had a term for it: “Syntopia.”
As a prelude, she handed the floor to like-minded Amsterdam-based artist duo Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta of Studio Drift to create a kinetic sculpture. Suspended above the runway — and based on the concept of a glass bird — the installation was composed of rows of glass bars suspended by invisible wires that made them move like wings. It made for some novel runway entertainment, but the show really took flight with van Herpen’s creations based on interpretations of a feather’s architecture.
The designer used chronophotography, a technique from the Victorian era that captures movement in several frames, to guide the draping of a garment, breaking the process down to emulate the layering of a bird’s feather on sculpted dresses with undulating hems.
Other looks had an ethereal underwater feel, seen in rippling dresses with a classical allure, and luminous cape gowns in sheer silk organza, their liquid-coated pleats echoing the lines of the kinetic installation.
The Syntopia theme also played out in a series of gray coats and dresses in laser-cut wool fused with sections of intertwined digitally designed and traditional weaves, fringes of leather tassels swinging from the hems.
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Spring is in the air and fashion month is over. Time to elaborate on everything we’ve seen. You’ve seen our Milan Recap now let’s summ up some of the Paris Fashion Week highlights. In terms of beauty the sky was the limit as gold colored hair, rainbow eyeshadow and extraordinary frizz made it’s way onto the runway. Fashion wise big themes were protective (layers) of clothing), futuristic, shiny designs, the eighties, cinched waists, logomania, crazy headpieces, plaids and a good mixing game of street and chic. And while you probably don’t want to wear anything else but your pj’s now, after a month filled with fashion, here’s what to look forward to. Five trends you’ll be rocking a year from now.
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Romanctic & dreamy dresses (for days)
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All wrapped up (toss on blankets) – as seen in Milan
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Wild thoughts
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Layering game
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High shine
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A spaceship landed inside the Louvre right before the Louis Vuitton show kicked off. The Star Wars-y vehicle came from the future and brought us a highly desirable, wearable and ladylike FW2018 collection. Remarkable? The Arclight it-sneaker had made way for perfect pumps. And skirt(suits) and sportive tops (cropped jackets and sweater details) were a big theme all throughout the show. Models looked chic and sophisticated; handbags under their arms, one glove on, LV logo´s on their chest. Highlights were a checked, unbuttoned dress worn over a pair of camel trousers and a woolen sweater as well as a leather coat paired with some sparkly trousers and a chain belt. No best selling sneakers, but many soon to be hit items for the modern day girl that is all about contemporary clothing with just the right edge and sophistication. And now it´s back to space for the LV shuttle. What a way to end a fashion filled month.
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“I’ve always loved autumn. This is a kind of Indian summer, with all the leaves. It’s a beautiful mood`, Karl stated backstage. And so we ended in a true Chanel forest (inside the Grand Palais) to witness his latest collection. A solid and chic Chanel line-up, without any huge surprises. Then again doesn’t the show’s backdrop at Chanel always deserves and gets the most attention? Tweed (skirt) suits, high (Karl Lagerfeld) collars, extra chunky scarves, high buns and big earring painted the fw2018 images. Puffer coats and hoodies added a sportive touch. While a finale of sheer black lace dresses worn with bright colored gloves added for some extra drama (and holidays dress up options). Designs way to chic for walk in the forest. Yet if Karl Lagerfeld says so let´s go, into the woods!
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Knitted personalised sweaters awaited the most important guests at Alexander McQueen. The nicest gift to please those critics. The collection inspired by the idea of “butterflies and bugs, and paradise found rather than lost.” had little to do with those knitwear pieces. It kicked off with multiple sheer and lace combinations in which the models looked fierce and sexy. Corset details, cinched waists, bright red lips, their hair tight back. Strong shouldered jackets and an extremely boxy emerald suit added for some contrast in silhouette. While the finale was a costum-y dress up gown game (with fringes, feathers, ruffles and what not) of it´s own. It wasn´t the most wearable collection. But hey, we get to take home that McQueen sweater with our name on it. We´re in good spirits anyway.
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Apart from the few menswear looks (from her menswear line that is just one year old) the Stella McCartney womenswear was a perfect interplay of masculinity and femineity. She introduced a fair amount of long lace, pastel colored dresses and alternated them with winter suits and checked woolen coats. Large prints of British artist J.H. linch paintings were the statement makers on several dreamy, transparent dresses. Bags were big and shoes less chunky than the Stella’s we’ve spotted out on the streets these weeks. Still there was lots to love. And with the sustainability factor becoming more and more important Stella McCartney is staying one of the key players in the international fashion game (the designer is said to be wanting to buy back parent company Kering’s 50 percent). The finale’s white lace maxi dress looked pretty enough to get married in. And we can’t help but already imagining those pretty fairytale dresses on Hollywood parties and award shows to come.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashionweek, womenswear FW2018/19.
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If you were to look up modern elgegancy images of Valentino’s fall/winter2018 runway would be popping up. Pierpaolo Piccioli Romanticism collection as he called it was perfect in every way. It was a true Valentino show in the sense of the large line up of long dreamy dresses, the use of the most beautiful materials and a Valentino red section in the middle. Yet there was so much more to this collection that felt fresh and unlike any other collection we’ve seen the last couple of weeks. No pulling from the archives, no throwbacks to seventies or eighties, but just a new light shed on elegancy. Long dresses worn over pants, capes and (riding) hoods, high collars and small scarves, strapless details, wide sleeves, flowing lines, floral appliqués and lots of ruffles painted the picture. All of this done and created in the most beautiful color palette. Fresh looking dream designs for the modern day woman of just about any age. Valentino can be SO proud.
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Take a look at the current fashion trends and you’ll notice 5 out of 10 trends originate back to Balenciaga. It’s not just the shoes (the knife boots, the metallic ankle boots and those Triple S sneakers) that are selling like hot cakes (despite their price tag). It’s the checks, the trench coats, the fanny packs, the logos and what not. And after clicking through fw2018 we can reassure you Balenciaga will again be one of the hit makers of the new season. The show, in which both male and female models walked, was about covering up for the cold. The backdrop was, as designer Gvasalia put it, a kind of a snowboarder paradise from the beginning of the ’90s; a fake snow mountain covered in graffiti. And what do you do when temperatures drop? You layer up. Right?! And so models sported fur coats over parkas over checked shirts over jersey sweaters over floral dresses over checked skirts. No doubt layering will be a big theme next year. An image of Joey from Friends wearing every fashion piece from his closet has already been hunting us since the show. New 3D techniques created foam out of bonded traditional fabrics. The result of super fitted, body hugging designs had something futuristic to it. And the brand proved it’s focus on the future by promoting the World Food Program and by donating $250,000. “You see, I don’t want to be just a T-shirt-and-hoodie man. We sell them, of course—but I feel I have a responsibility to do it in a way which brings a message”, Gvasalia stated as his new sneaker is hitting headlines on social media and all the big fashion websites.
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