Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Paris SS2019

On Wednesday Viktor & Rolf surprised us with their latest couture collection titled “Fashion Statements”. A collection filled with statements, fashion wise, but literally too, as all gowns had large quotes/memes added to them. Classic quotes and statements that turned a smile on everyone’s faces. “I’m not shy I just don’t like you”, “F*ck this I’m going to Paris” or “Sorry I’m late I didn’t want to come”. Things we say on a usually base and things we’d love to say out loud more often. They were the extra touch to the 18 statement makers of couture gowns. Bright colored and voluminous (which seems like a big understatement as the dresses really were larger than life) with layers and layers (and layers) of tulle). The good old “NO” we’ve seen pop up in many more collections was present too. And the show concluded with a black gown reading “I want a better world”. Bold, bright, artistic, fun, refreshing, impressive and very Viktor & Rolf. The “Less is more” that could be read a pink tulle gown just doesn’t apply to their own collections.

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Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Today’s Dior show can be seen as the ultimate style between sportswear and tailoring. Yes, the 49 models looked perfectly dressed, but they still had enough streetcred too. They sported their pleated pants with logo printed sweaters. Suits had stoles/scarves attached to them, which were wrapped around the models bodies (inspired, Kim Jones said, by a 1955 dress from the Dior archive). Classic pants were paired with structured utilitarian tops in the same color palette. Cross body bags and sporty boots added to the urban/youthful feel of the collection. Leopard print details and fur pieces seemed a bit of a distraction, but the collection’s true message came across cleary. Kim Jones has introduced the new way of dressing for men for the upcoming seasons. Not just sportswear, not just suits, but a perfect fresh menswear style approach in between.

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Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

Pierpaolo Piccioli set up some collaborations for fw2019. First he joined forces with Jun Takahashi of Undercover. Together they created a series of prints (with time traveler slogans, spaceships, skulls, and a joint VU – for Valentino – Undercover logo) that would appear in both of their menswear collections. In tailoring, like many fashion houses this week, Piccioli moved away from the sportswear and into a more relaxed way of dressing. He said he’d been looking at the fluidity of Italian tailoring in the 1980s. And so he designed easy going suits, comfy woolen coats, the softest sweaters and jackets with the feel of a hoodie. All worn with perfect pleated pants and either sneakers or Birkenstocks, the second collaboration for this collection. And all of a sudden patent red Birks worn with black socks seemed like a pretty good footwear option to wear on a warm October day.

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Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2019

An army of full on grey looks opened the Louis Vuitton show on Thursday. Proof that Virgil Abloh had stepped away from the more streetwear inspired looks and turned to real menswear tailoring and dressing. Suit jackets were oversized, pants were roomy and perfectly pleated. The looks had structured, 3D details to them, some even looked completely 3D, like a short puffer inspired coat with the LV monogram pressed into it. Or a cropped body warmer worn over a tailored suit jacket. Looks with metallic/silver tones, a series of purple looks and quite a few nude/camel ensembles followed up. As the finale existed of a flag printed (including flags from all the people in the office) outfits. Everything took place in a show area turned into a New York sidewalk, the exact set from Michael Jackson’s Billie Jean as this show was an ode to Michael Jackson. Or as Virgil Abloh put it “Not to make costume, but to take him as backdrop, to make a point about the humanity in his vision. I wanted humanity in the forefront”.
Oversized, roomy and XL; LV makes sure you’re more than ready to beat the FW2019 cold.

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Highlights Paris Fashion Week – Trends SS2019

Nine days of Paris Fashion Week were concluded this Tuesday with big fish Chanel and Louis Vuitton both scheduled on the last day. Nine days filled with highly anticipated shows (Celine) that disappointed more than a few, surprise shows and performances (Gucci’s debut at Paris Fashion Week and Jane Birkin’s performance during the show) the most impressive backdrops (Saint Laurent’s palm trees and the Eiffel tower, Chanel’s beach, Balenciaga’s tunnel that took us to a different dimension), XL shows (Dior) vs. small collections (Comme des Garcons), a big focus on the whole gender blending/neutral theme, but also collections that lacked a big inspiration, statement or political message (Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton). What an interesting nine days these have been. To sum it all up fashion wise, we’ve filtered out some of the biggest SS2019 trends. So that you can already wrap your head around the idea that you’ll be sporting washed out denim and mesh dresses in less than a year.

Have you read our Milan Trend Report SS2019 yet?

Washed out denim

Mesh anything

Polka dot

Fantasy prints

Strong shoulders

Black blazer

Get away clothes

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

In line with this fashion months most prevailing trends, the gender blending topic, Nicolas Ghesquière pulled a little trick on Tuesday afternoon. He sent out a selection of menswear and womenswear looks, like so many designers mix those together, yet he had all girls wearing the looks. “My idea was to be ambiguous because everyone thinks that when a woman dresses like a man, it’s giving her power. I think you can be very vulnerable when you wear a suit as a woman. It was very interesting to play with that ambiguity”, he said. And why wouldn’t girls wear the black pants and white suit jacket or the kaki pants and bomber jacket he designed? A clear statement at the start of the show which evolved into solely womenswear looks with a sci-fi feeling and a touch of eighties (a returning theme in Ghesquière’s shows), worn by girls. They sported printed dresses with futuristic cyber images on their chests and sturdy rounded rubber coats. Bomber jackets with contrasting prints and mesh dresses with chunky space suit inspired sleeves. Workwear pants in all kinds of shades and black leather boots. Oh and let’s not forget about the stunning tiny spaceship shaped cross body bags.The collection didn’t have a story or inspiration, these were just clothes designed to make women feel more powerful. “Every piece that I designed for this collection, I asked the question: is it powerful for a woman to wear this? Does it give her strength?” Another fashion month has come to an end and what better way to conclude it than with a short trip to Ghesquière’s galaxy.

 

 

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

And so we wrap up a fashion filled month with a short holiday as we took our seats in the sand at Chanel. No models strutting the runway but a casual stroll on the Chanel beach complete with fake waves and a lifeguard. A fresh C breeze. They walked on their bare feet, but made sure they carried some new Chanel footwear in their hand, one or two handbags in the other hand. Although a few of the models carried the new handbags around their necks. Some even wore two shoulder bags attached to each other in the middle. They sported tweed suits in the loveliest palette of summer pastels. Sleeves tweed jackets were slightly oversized, but the short skirts made up for it. Real beach items too, like a bathing suit, a kaftan inspired dress and some spaghetti strap printed dresses. Followed up by a series of heavy leather classic jackets (as seen on Ola Rudnicka). Lots of lace, a few fringes, some ruffles and a selection of light knits in the mix. Black cycling pants during the day, black sequined looks at night. Leather gloves (the ones Karl Lagerfeld wears himself) and straw hats accessorized the looks. As “Chanel” earpieces, bracelets and an overdose of pearl necklaces added to the fashion house’s signature look. Every look was spot on Chanel, wave after wave. With the right dose of contemporary highs (the logo’s, the cycling pants) to keep Chanel relevant and young. Fully charged and inspired we left the perfect little Parisian beach behind us. Wish it could stay there as a perfect little escape from the city. Wish we’d already own of those sets of earrings.

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Sarah Burtons collection for Alexander McQueen was about sisterhood, about women’s milestones and rituals: birth, christenings, weddings, funerals. “It’s about being strong and emotional, but also staying it’s okay to show your vulnerability; not to have to put a brave face on it”, she stated. And so she sent out looks that were both cute and girly but also tough. Like the first few light colored lace dresses she paired with black leather belts (some with a leather peplum or apron attached to it) and boots. A few suits and sleeveless suit jackets with lace up detailing in the mix. And then the more voluminous floral printed dresses came on. Fran Summers looked extra tough in a black leather floral painted corset/torso with lace up skirt and boots. Her hair slick in multiple braids the show’s hairstyle. Then Laurijn Bijnen came out looking like a liquid dream in her silver sheer dress. Throughout the show we went back and forth from light to heavy, supple to sturdy, light to dark, arty to commercial. Some pieces will sell like hot cakes others were the statement makers that set the mood for SS2019. A flirty and sexy but gloomy mood.

Streetfashion PFW Womenswear SS2019, Day 09

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Off White-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week – Womenswear SS2019.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Stella McCartney doesn’t have a big, new message for SS2019. Her collection she showed on Monday was basically a presentation of what she does best; making distinctive clothes with a certain cool factor. The first look was a sexy floral printed body suit, the second look a sand colored oversized suit. And so the show went on from flirty skater dresses to tie dye T-shirts, from overalls to slip dresses and a pink colored knitwear looks. No reason, no rhyme, no built up. A few oversized menswear looks in the mix. All in a soft pastel pallet, apart from the bright orange co-ord Giselle Norman wore and the turquoise dress He Cong sported with matching sporty sunnies. Anok Yai looked stunning in a long mint plisse (a definite trend for next year) dress. Tie dye is going to be big next year, if it’s up to McCartney. Other than that you can just rely on her to make you some perfect fits for just about any occasion.

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