Olivier Theyskens wants the label Theory to be neat, disciplined and precise. And he serves that mandate well, regarding the presentation yesterday. He escalated the collection’s core of minimal basics by tweaking proportions and developing fabrics. The classic white shirt came elongated as a crisp, straight tea-length dress and a roomier version that cut away on the left side. The asymmetrical hem was a repeat effect bringing controlled drama to dresses, some with transparent skirts, and hourglass jackets that were folded into structured ruffles on one side.
The more lyrical side was revealed in shiny jackets — silk bonded to wool — embroidered with green and silver florals.