Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Layering infused with a dose of Bananarama style that’s what Marc by Marc Jacobs ss 2013 is about. Oversized shirts were tucked into rolled-up baggy pants, a full-skirted peplum dress in faded floral denim and patchwork designs combined checks, gingham and paisley for a youthful touch The show’s cool styling (scarves for belts and hair accessories) offered countless ways of putting a wardrobe together.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The Rodarte-collection was all about medieval and fantasy role-playing games. It seemed a statement in power-dressing, the show referenced armored warriors, road warriors and also……. Nicolas Ghesquière. Short, strapless dresses shown layered over tight, printed turtlenecks had bodices shaped like partial octagons that jutted away from the body like a breastplate. Other variations on the armor motif included waistlines embellished with draped chains and corsetlike metal embroidery on long, fluid gowns. Also: bohemian bikers in robust black leather, including lace-up pants and quilted jackets with ample fringe and colorful silk trim.

The dominant silhouettes — short, structured dresses; boxy tops worn with skinny pants — and colors — teal, black, orange — are commonly associated with the term “futuristic,” especially with matching shoes. Yet the mix of materials and construction suggested a lot of handwork and gave the look an artisanal touch.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The spring summer 2013 collection of Donna Karan was about nature: sand, water, light. Abd it was light in every sense, floaty fabrics, slithering shapes and colors like dawn-sky blue and rich sunset pink. The silhouette – fitted-on-top, full-below-the-waist  – was borrowed from the world of ballet, or the 1950s.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York SS2013 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York  Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Marc Jacobs took fashion into another direction. Again. But he still finds a covered girl sexy, so that opinion didn’t change. The result for his ss2013 collection: suits with below-the-knee skirts worn low on the hips, bare midriffs and long skirts and dresses. Many of the outfits came in wide vertical stripes — black, maroon, taupe — with matching purses and  little shoes with low heels.  The models’ hair was ratted at the crown and pulled into a low ponytail.

The show was literally eyepopping and a play with optical illusions, also 1960 Swinging London revisited. The message for summer 2013 was hard, young and graphic. The geometric elements were everywhere: zigzag op-art patterns or harlequin effects; shoes with checkered heels.

Herve Leger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The collection Max Azria designed for Herve Leger was inspired by the quilts of Gee’s Bend, a rural community in Alabama whose women have developed a distinct style of traditional patchworking over the past two centuries. The influence gave the collection an extra dimension seen in geometric patterns and passementerie appliqué details. Versions came flared at the hemline or jazzed up with interlocking chains, a fishnetlike overlay and leather harnesses.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Phillip Lim’s explained in his shownotes that he had been exploring “cut-up,” a Dada literary technique later popularized by William Burroughs and then appropriated by musicians such as David Bowie and Radiohead.  Cut-up is another word for nonlinearity. In fashion Cut-up could also mean mix ‘n’ match. Like Philip Lim did.
Take his interpretation of sheers. One ofe the main trends for ss2013 is see-through clothes which is not an easy concept to sell. But Lim, using obscuring plaid or woodland scene appliqués, made the look modest enough to be convincing. The silk sheers were among the standout pieces as were the patchwork denim, shredded khakis and his printed, corded silk biker jackets.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Tommy Hilfiger and his team brushed up two classic themes – safari and nautical – and made it into an upbeat and interesting collection. It was big and lively, with new  interpretations of sailcloth, stripes, and fisherman knits, among other staples of the seafaring look. The oversized red, white, and blue suit jackets, slouchy patchwork denim, and swinging tent dresses boasting sexy open backs looked refreshing and good. And many of the pieces benefited from unexpected finishes, such as the boxy navy-striped sailor’s tee, with a slick, stiff coating of wax. Yet for all the emphasis on the American palette, there were a great deal of washed-out sandy tones, too. They looked crisp and clean, though not obviously safari-esque, on cable knits and summery leathers.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It was tennis that inspired Felipe Oliveira Baptista for his ss2013 collection for Lacoste. He repeated an abstract version of rackets, balls, an umpire’s chair, and a pattern of folded polos as a print on shirts, pants, and parkas. The color palette matched perfectly: cobalt blue and  orange intensified the shades of summer. Baptista also tweaked the house’s more classic looks, cutting polo shirtdresses looser and working them in bold color blocks and mesh. The clear plastic jackets over cropped tops and miniskirts were especially fun, as was the sexy black leather minidress embossed with alligators.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The models that wore Jason Wu’s new ss2013 collection could have walked out of a Helmut Newton-picture. And the photographer was indeed one of Wu’s inspirations for this collection. So that means lots of leather and lace and sexy clothes, nude and black with leather harnesses, black net veils and deep red lipstick.

A point d’esprit bra ­— Wu collaborated with La Perla on the innerwear pieces — topped a short flounced leather skirt with laser-cut embroidery; a sleeveless white blouse with black lace inserts went with leather shorts. Wu softened the look a bit with lace blouses and cigarette trousers, and sheer and severe dresses.

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