The Big Round Up Womenswear SS2013, part 1

Spotting trends, common threads, strong statements and influences was not an easy task this S’2013 catwalk season. What does this tell us about the present status of fashion? Is this the outcome of the current economic turmoil? Making designers opt once more for carefulness, minimalism and restraint? Does this push immaculate tailoring and supreme crafts? Excitement more hidden in cut and materials then in expressive aesthetics?

Reflecting on this we concluded that there was pure concentration on the making of beautiful clothes rather then strong fashion statements.

We saw lines of models wandering like babbling brooks, very interesting but far from mind goggling. The strongest acts of expressionism where in the sphere of geometrics and linear patterning. An interesting pulse came from textile technology, novel finishing and techno-crafted embellishment. Outspoken silhouettes where most inspired by the Orient, which was a follow up from what started previous seasons, rather then being a novelty. Understated black and white reigned when it came to coloring. And the return of patterning was near to non-existent.

So it will be the high street in desperate need of ways to differentiate, that will fuel the pattern trend, or it will take another season to reflect on it. And let’s be honest … in the context of recent catwalks, the few collection showing pattern, print and decorative accessorizing seemed quiet trivial and out of sink.

The lessons learned where: ‘how to be beautiful’, rather then ‘how to be fashionable’. And what can be wrong with that?

But… after seasons of flash backs and heritage, playing safe and conservatism… aren’t we in need of excitement and entertainment? Isn’t this what catwalk shows should be about? To be honest… we would have loved to see the sparkle of the unexpected.

The fun is, it’s there! Just look at the street photography during the catwalk shows. There the fire of decorative expressionism and eccentricity is burning.  It is all in the mix.

Nevertheless we list you 9 inspiring directions, spotted at the international catwalks of New York, Milan and Paris. The first three are:

OPTICAL STRIPES

Where Marc Jacobs and Moschino show a literary revival of the swinging 60s, Aquilano Rimondi, Costume National and Sportmax add a contemporary twist to manipulative and illusionist black and white geometrics. From neat linear stripes to optical cut, patched and scattered blocks. Alternating contrasts of matte and shine, as well as transparency and opaque.

OPENWORK

There is a massive interest in materials, in techno-crafted embellishment and innovative manufacturing. Sportmax lasercutted hounds tooth patterns where Alexander Wang cuts and carves in more organic ways. Michael Kors punches sail rings and rivets where, Christopher Kane shows spectacular updates of quilting and lace, where, Balmain goes over the top showing glamazones in leather embellished with a layering of techniques.

NEW TAILORING

Works of art or couture mathematics? Costume National shows graphic cuts and sharp asymmetrics, balancing layers and proportions. Balenciaga confirms the important role that the sleeveless jackets will play coming seasons, martial arts reflect in Haider Ackermann’s wrap suits, where Narciso Rodriguez goes classy, Givenchy throws layers and Dior goes for powerful contours.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Patchwork

Patchwork Part 1

A patchwork parade of energetic pieces and brave design experiments. Collage couture with an edgy urban cool factor in acid and surfer brights with jet black and silver grey.  Eye-popping textures are alternated with slick sheen and metallic shimmer, fluidity with chunky, sculptural textiles.

Proenza Schouler shows experimental mixes of plains with perforated, bonded, laser cut and crocheted surfaces. Mixed with diagonally stitched strips of digital print. Diane von Furstenberg is faithful to her hippy deluxe, flirty fashion. Kaftans, wrap skirts, jodhpurs are all worn in layers. Rodarte shows collages of guipure, jacquard, jewellery and panels of printed silk.

In this print parade and mix mesh of textures there is a common vibe, which binds together a large variety of designers. But underneath this collage of design experiments we recognize the roots well planted by Balenciaga, exploring the interaction between technology and craft.

Patchwork Part 2

Cool is THE word reviewing NY fashion week. Street-y cool, retro cool, ragtag cool, hippie cool are all synonyms used by Style.com for the Peter Som collection. Yet these cover a whole generation of designs, showing oh-so-sweet looks with bohemian flavor. Icons of romance and nostalgia; puffed sleeves, frills, flounces and gatherings, receive an infusion of cool through mad mixing, digital printing, weird cutting and pasting and piling contrasting layers in different proportions.

A print parade of classics as well as digital re-editions.

Marc by Marc Jacobs shows a mix mesh of patterns all brought together with fun, flair and bravery. Phillip Lim makes street-wise collages of patterns and plains. Peter Som adds a cool twist to traditional retro where Rebecca Minkoff mixes young and sexy with bon-vivant, grandma-chic.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

Photographers at New York Fashion Week (Video)

See the photographers in action in and around fashion week in New York.

Photographers at New York Fashion Week SS13 from Team Peter Stigter on Vimeo.

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Optical Illusions

This is fashion’s new  season range of great looking, shape-shifting garments.

Marc Jacobs surprised with a ravishing revival of the swinging 60s. Reminding us of Andy Warhol and his Factory. Reviving the fresh looks of It girls Edie Sedgwick and Peggy Moffitt, both icons of New York cool.

Marc Jacobs played games with graphics in looks that are playful and upbeat, cartoonish and sexy. Adding modern twist, fresh swirl and a crispness that leaves no room for nostalgic sentiments. Optical illusions in neat dazzling stripes and a white variety of geometrics here in a stripy lower then low slung skirt and a jumpsuit with bold bended block stripes. Alex Wang showed boxy, fragmented outfits; cut and slashed in seemingly loose and mysteriously floating bits and pieces. Lacoste goes racy in a sexy cut out dress that plays with contours and proportions.

Fantastic entertainment thanks to the right mix of fashion magic, genius and artisanship.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Francisco Costa closed New York fashion week with a collection that had a strong sexual vibe. He opened with a black satin conical bustier dress, the model’s belle poitrine outlined in silver. All signs pointed to the bust as this collection’s erogenous zone. But Costa didn’t ignore the waist or the legs, either. Peplums played a starring role, and narrow belts accented most of the looks.
Costa also played with fabric, adding a white lining to the black mesh he used for a skirtsuit which produced a vibrating moiré effect.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Ralp Lauren was inspired by far away exotic places, this time Spain or Latin America. Matador suits, serapes, ruffles, fringe—they all got the Lauren treatment.

Playing with black, white, red, and turquoise he started with soft tailoring in suede, some of which was accented with tooled leather details. Shawls and ponchos turned up in various forms, and dresses and skirts were hand-crocheted. Scarves knotted at the neck, glass bead necklaces, and studded leather mailbags completed the vivid picture.

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Workwear

The workwear-theme is a direction that is going to fly at retail. Uptown clothing with slight hints of couture sensibility, fueled with a youthful vibe. Wearable clothes with an almost unfinished looseness designed for the freedom of movement. Altuzarra introduces a cape-jacket featuring sleeves with air vents. We are all pretty sure that this will be one of the most copied attributes coming seasons. From neat, upbeat authentics, twisted traditional bikers to cut-up, nonlinear patchworks, it is all about tough versus tender, showing bold square and male outlines that are nipped at the waist, schoolgirl short, crisp white collared and even showing hints of lace trimming

Altuzarra buckles up as well as buttons down which makes an exiting contrast, where Rag & Bone shows Victorians on Safari, spicing biker classics with sweet romance. The Sahara shaded Belstaff collection shows the sensual side of its motor-cross heritage.

And there is more, from the hooded tent-dresses of Yigal Azrouel to the patchwork denims and shredded khakis of Phillip Lim. All extremely shoppable.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York SS2013 Day 6

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Kenzo-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York  Fashionweek, season spring/summer 2013.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It was well balanced collection of Narciso Rodriguez with spare silhouettes, exquisite cuts and colorful graphics that were in control.

Rodriguez used his fall collection, which featured collaging techniques, as a starting point for spring. This time he furthered his play on construction. Rodriguez also ventured into surface embellishments.  There were laminated wood paillettes, which he applied, in one case, in an abstract motif on a teal and moss dress. He also added colorful floral embroidery on several chic tops. The texture added a  new dimension to Rodriguez’s work. So were his final two languid white slipdresses that were almost transparent were it not for their big fuchsia and magenta color blocks.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Rugby stripes, bold blocks of color, digital prints of clouds and pools, hints of the mod 1960s. Michael Kors went for  “geometric glamour.” The collection had a crisp look and feel. Sixties & stripes played a major role this season in New York, so Kors is right on track.
There were covetable items like a one-piece tank suit with zips on the sides, a white  leather shirtdress with gold snap closures, and trim coats in primary brights.

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