New York Fashion Week fw2019 is off to a great start. Our team is there to capture the shows and the best dressed show-goers. Below an overview of the streetstyle stars of day one.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Off White-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashionweek, womenswear SS2019.
Mom’s the word. At Sies Marjan designer Dutch Sander Lak (36) let his mom Marjan (his father’s name was Sies) walk the runway. And not just her, his biggest critic, was part of his model cast. Childhood friends and model friends like Kaia and Presley Gerber (their mother Cindy Crawford came out to support them) were present too. “This collection’s cast is made of a group of people I love and admire, many who are part of my daily life. Friends and family, Sies Marjan coworkers, great models we love, and new ones we’re just getting to know. In a sense, this group is my home too”, Sander Lak said.
The color palette was on point as always with Lak, who worked under master colorist Dries Van Noten. Colors like ocher yellow, violet, deep red, bright blue and, burgundy and lilac were vibrant and fresh. Quite some complete crispy white looks as well. But besides color Lak experimented with materials and textures too. He came up with painted leathers, washed cottons, and show stopping croc-mimicking plastics.
Most impressive were the layered looks. Like the khaki colored look Malgosia Bela wore. Like the pinstriped blue ensemble Charlotte O’Donnell sported. Or the pink colored skirt + coat Dree Hemingway (who by the way rocked a fresh, super short new haircut) introduced. And the leather burgundy outfit that followed up. Anwar Hadid walked the show in a printed suit and a heavy gray vest.
Mom looked stunning and comfy in a nautical striped design. Proof that this collection has a bit of both; edgy vs. comfy. Those features might need to come together a bit more. But overall this was another strong, fresh and wearable line up of Sies Marjan looks. Mom Marjan will be so proud.
What a way to make a comeback (after two years of absence) into New York Fashion Week! Sunday night the Rodarte sisters held their collection presentation at the New York City Marble Cemetery, in the pouring rain. But those circumstances didn’t intervene with the collection’s message. On the contrary, they made the event even more fairytale-like. And luckily the designs were colourful and fantasy-full enough to stand out from the gloomy environment
. As one editor put it, it was as if all the long lost party girls from a different era had risen from the death. In their prettiest, over the top, delicate and glamorous looks they paraded over the cemeteries path. Floor sweeping, frothy, layered gowns (with ruffled leather, colourful wafting lace and tulle) were paired with graceful bow tie stiletto’s, floral crowns, capes and veils. Pastel shades, metallic and vibrant fuchsia in the mix. Make-up included bright red lips and colourful eye shadow.
The cemetery might in real life, in this life, be the last place on earth to wear one of those looks, but tonight it formed the most romantic resurrection of the dress-up game that used to be. Now we only have to wait for the right party with a dress code to match.
Could a Jaws T-shirt with a CK logo printed onto it be a potential hot seller? Designer Raf Simons likes to think so. Inspired by seventies movies such as Jaws, Hooper, Ben and The Graduate he came up with a playful collection of deconstructed, asymmetric, unfinished (fringed ends everywhere) looks and a whole lot of Jaws merch. There is not much left of the straightforward, minimalistic, clean catwalk looks Calvin Klein used to have over the past few years. Raf Simons seems to like to experiment for the brand.
The printed (prints were animal inspired and tie dye) tea dresses looked a bit difficult though. Strong shouldered tweed jackets seemed appealing. Leather bodysuits felt fit for a dive into the ocean as heavy knits and graceful pleated skirts (as worn by Stella Tennant) felt like the best idea. And that loose fitting red beanie Doutzen Kroes sported might just finish off the whole look. Food for thought.
Tom Ford’s show notes spoke of the essence of him being a designer, the reason why. “I became a designer, because I wanted to make men and women feel more beautiful and to empower them with a feeling of confidence. A feeling of knowing that they looked their best and could then present their best selves to the world. I wanted to make clothes that were flattering. That make one look taller and slimmer and more beautiful or more handsome.” And ever since the designer really put himself on the map in the mid-1990s he did just that.
SS2019 was no exception. To the sounds of Netflix series Babylon Berlin’s theme song he sent out an army of fierce looking women and some men. Cardi B, who created a lipstick with Tom ford that this week sold out in a day, was present among some other celebs.
The guys wore suits with shirts and sweaters with a pair of statement glasses.They main womenswear outfit was a mismatched powder shaded skirt suit in a mix of lace, satin and silk materials. Another big theme in the collection was croc leather popping up in the shape of jackets, belts, bags, bracelets and wallets in shades of black, green and lilac.
There were some impeccable trench coats, a leopard printed pony skin coat and a selection of the sexiest party pieces. Like a deconstructed tux or a sheer and body tight little black dress. Every look was styled off by a pair of pointy shoes with ankle straps and the female models sported silk scarves on their heads. Like Tom Ford promised in his show notes he made his models look their best; glamorous, confident, seductive and sexy af.
A true runway-collection that was what Marc Jacobs had in mind designing his fall 2018 collection. And what a runway-collection it was. He made his case for real fashion, fashion that’s not diluted or dumbed down, with an all-out, obvious homage to one of fashion’s greatest gods, and, at his height, most daring innovators, Yves Saint Laurent. This was Saint Laurent on steroids (with nods to one or two other designers), as Jacobs exploded proportions and dazzled with an audacious color sense to rival Saint Laurent’s own: maroon fake-fur chubbie over navy blouse, orange pants and purple sash; jade coat over hot pink blouse and berry-colored leather skirt (or was it pants?). Jacobs kept most volumes huge, the shoulders of myriad coats and jackets cut big, bigger, biggest, over high-waisted skirts and cropped, pleated pants, rounded through the hips. The grand stroke was everywhere, in huge flowers at the neck of a blouse or at the waist; a dolman sleeve with trumpet cuffs; an ebullient pouf on the bodice of a gown; high-drama, flat-brimmed hats. Occasionally, Jacobs worked in a body-con moment, dresses that lost volume but not impact. This was fashion to the max. A celebration of fashion.
Raf Simons marked his first year at Calvin Klein by filling the American Stock Exchange building with a silo’s worth of popcorn, not for people to eat but to wade through and sit in, for his fall show. This collection was about America.
The collection felt loaded with dark symbolism. With Wile E. Coyote and Road Runner sweaters, sinister but cozy homespun knitted ski hoods, Warhol silver foiled aprons, and prairie dresses done in subversive sheers or with cutouts at the breast. There was an abundance of oversized tailoring, ski sweaters, a leopard coat and wispy silk dresses printed to mimic classic American quilting patterns.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashionweek, womenswear FW2018/19.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashionweek, womenswear FW2018/19.