First View New York Womenswear FW2013: an Englishman in New York

Here is a very clear and retail-friendly trend to spot. Classic English tailoring, menswear suiting materials and silhouettes referencing collegiate prep. Not that we have never seen this before. This is all about comfort and ease, not so much in the fit but more in mindset – looking good, no shock, no unease and absolutely no risk. Luckily there are some designers to give this look a twist. By adding a touch of futurism in bonded materials or a quiet but brave re-proportioning of the silhouette. But mostly this is about referencing the classic, the authentic and re-viving as well as re-living tradition in Peacoats and double-breasted coats and blazers combined with abbreviated minis.

Tommy Hilfiger stays close to its preppy roots with Prince of Wales checks and hound’s-tooth checks and plaids. Rag & Bone, adds modernity by re-proportioning and mixing materials and textures. Victoria Beckham layers her skin-tight and sexy dresses with mannish but nevertheless sensual coats. Then have a look at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Y3 and Thom Browne to see how they manage to merge these icons of tailoring with their personal signature.

Hail to history and now back to the future please!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Was this fall-collection of Oscar de La Renta a collaboration with John Galliano or not? Not one will know for sure. The American designer took the bow at the end and Galliano stayed backstage. Certain looks seemed to bear the Englishman’s hand, especially the opening jackets and  also the marcelled locks and deeply shaded, greasy eyes were familiar from his Paris days. Other pieces seemed more like vintage de la Renta, and that was good.

Anna Sui Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Please enjoy our pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

 

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Michael Kors went for the urban and sporty for his fall 2013-collection. He took the yellow and orange from the New York streets and mixed them the city’s favorite dress-color: black. Many of the tailored pieces seemed built for speed with rounded shoulders and aerodynamic construction. Black patent trim and taped gave it all a vibe of fast sport like car racing.  Kors also used all sorts of camouflage, most luxuriously in multicolor mink.
Kors’ idea for evening are a fitted minidress with a long peplum overskirt.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2013 Day 6

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

 

 

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2013 Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

Derek Lam Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Derek Lam got inspired by made ‘American style’ for his fall-collection, showing a cool and concise mix of artisinal and classic in a minimal union. The color palette of ivory, navy, camel and burgundy worked on rich, double-faced fabrics like satin, plus furs and leather.
Lam took classic investment pieces with elegant novelty via graphic, second-skin tops. There were recurring elements of the patchworks done in leather and wool jersey, crochet and a thick textured lace.

 

Y-3 Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Yohji Yamamoto sent out an “Analog vs. Digital” collection for Y-3, contrasting the traditional with the modern. For women, it translated into a mix of materials, textures and lengths.  A key look was a fitted sweater, puffer vest and neon plaid scarf worn with skinny pants and a transparent PVC kilt that was cut in half. Yamamoto’s men’s wear had more of a utility-meets-street vibe with a strong focus on outerwear.

Vera Wang Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Vera Wang’s fall collection looked like a study on luxurious fabrics, volume and silhouettes, referencing several couture concepts. The designer’s main silhouette was the egg shape. It was a nod to Cristóbal Balenciaga, but Wang often made the look in layered constructions of multiple pieces — a jacket over a shift dress, for instance — featuring deep armholes with low, inset pockets. She repeated the shape throughout the show.

 

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

The fall-collection of Rodarte was inspired by the West Coast, especially Santa Cruz – the town in which the sisters grew up. For decades this town has been an epicenter for surf and skate culture, which was the genesis of the collection. A progression from chic street to high boardwalk began with a series of black and nude looks, with oversized suede trenchcoats,  tight bodysuits and black cropped low pants. Dreamy moments came in neutrals — like the silk jumpsuit with a sheer tulle back embroidered with angel wings.
Then it was onto the trippy side with tie-dye for evening in fluid, colorful silk gowns, some topped with angular “foam” collars in white, black or nude, others merged tie-dye skirts with crimson, rose-embroidered tulle. The show ended with a parade of acid wash, whether as real denim or filmy printed silks.

 

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