Rebecca Taylor Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The work of Parisian street artist Philippe Baudelocque inspired designer Rebecca Taylor for her latest collection.

A black and white ‘storm’ print, for example, was a clear nod to the artist’s chalk drawings on black backgrounds throughout the city. But Taylor’s mix of delicate fabrics and soft colors juxtaposed against tougher fare spoke to the idea of fragility in an urban environment.

Jesus del Pozo Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The colors of Italian artist Duilio Barnabé’s paintings and the retro-futuristic atmosphere of “Logan’s Run” merged to inspire Josep Font’s fall collection for Madrid-based Jesus Del Pozo.

The lineup touched different notes, from feminine and ethereal to severe and powerful. The contrasting moods were unified under a strong couture sensibility, a distinguishing feature of Font’s ready-to-wear efforts.

His collection opened with overcoats, dresses and separates in sculpted A-line silhouettes. These included a beige maxi cape with pointed shoulders and a brown zip jacket with a petal-like maxi collar embroidered with a floral motif, worn over a flared mini-skirt.

Then, the clothes became softer with mohair sweaters and organza and chiffon styles, such as a pleated evening shirtdress, embroidered with crystals and sequins in floral shapes.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

For fall Donna Karan and her design team decided to celebrate the New Yorks diversity, making that point clear with the show’s production. It started with a video featuring real-life New Yorkers — all young and edgy and in varying ethnicities — waxing poetic about the city.

Then came the runway show, cast with a mix of models and locals including girl-about-town Hannah Bronfman, nightlife hostess Melissa Burns and DJ Chelsea Leyland. As for the clothes, they too were diverse, from sporty to utilitarian to feminine. Karan mixed functional with whimsical — a quilted parka coat with a long-hair shearling hood over a glittery sequined skirt; an elegant burgundy fur vest with a navy duffle coat and wrap skirt.

It ended with flashes of hot pink worked on pieces including a lace jacket and slipdress.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2014, Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

A visit to a golf course built in the late Twenties in France’s Basque region by René Lacoste’s father-in-law, was the starting point for Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s collection for Lacoste. He handled the golfing theme with restraint.

The sporty looks were relaxed, polished and wearable, but could have used a little zest. The women’s portion had its moments of girlish charm,  lik the cool, oversize white sweater with an abstract motif over a skirt. For men, Baptista worked in a mostly tonal palette with ensembles in burgundy, blue and beige, including a double-breasted hooded jacket with pants cut close to the body.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2014, Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

For next summer Oscar de la Renta again succeeded in creating beautiful designs in which every woman can look like the best version of herself. Pencil skirts, lace dresses, A-line skirts; his collection once again was a celebration of femininity. And the designer might have turned 82 this summer, he proved he can still produce pieces that, although intended mostly classic, feel young and fresh. He showed checks, polka dots, hounds tooth and floral prints on classical skirts suits and dresses. As he introduced a wide series of flared dresses things got a little more playful and colorful. Chunky necklaces and large colored earrings added to that effect. A selection of beige shaded skirts and tops felt young and perfect for a  young A-lister’s red carpet appearance during upcoming award season. But there’s no doubt the more dramatic, Elizabethan gowns (with ruffs, embroideries and lace incl. a few veiled numbers) that closed the show, will find their way into some celebrity’s hands either.

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: Fabulous Coats

It’s been a big week for coats. Remarkable that an item that independent of the weather gradually lost its position in the stores, is now THE canvas for fashion statements.

A myriad of coat styles crossed the runways – from traditional camel capes, pea coats and prep Prince of Wales jackets to decadent furs, plastic trenches and an impressive series of stern and rigid, broad shouldered power coats with nipped and belted waists. From prim tailored trenches, reinterpreted smokings to rugged utilitarian parkas.

Most obvious where the numerous terrific coats that where stripped down and traditional, inspired by menswear suiting and tailoring.

Alexander Wang cut his coats oversize and dropped the waist inspired by boxing. Phillip Lim referenced bikers; showing  motorcycle jackets, ragged shearling but also super trenches. Michael Kors themed urban warriors; fast-paced, sporty and chic in bold, boxy, sculptural shapes and Calvin Klein buckles up and goes large; with mannish shoulders in dense cloth.

Though the coat’s references are mannish the looks are generally sensual.

Great tools of empowerment.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

For the set of his show Marc Jacobs got inspired by the ‘Weather Project’ of artist Olafur Eliasson’s, a huge hot sun that shone intensely on the models. Jacobs started his show under the sun’s low frequency light that removed all color, everything seemed black, gray and sepia. Then the light changed and it revealed a beautiful palette of neutrals and soft colors, poink, blue, deep burgundy and green. It was a simple collection without any techno-fabrics. Jacobs choose traditional materials like cashmere and alpaca, silk and fur. For day there were chic skirt looks and coats in blue alpaca and pink cashmere.The shine came via an embroidered fishnet motif on sensual pajama looks, and fox-collared tulle jackets covered in big, loose paillettes, some over-sequined gowns.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Designer Ralph Lauren looked at Russia for his fall 2013 collection, but also took some inspiration from Paris.

Lauren’s day looks drew from naval motifs, particularly an array of outerwear, from pea-coats to officer’s caots. These came in various proportions, sometimes cut away. Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory topper. He also showed knits and poetic shirts with billowing sleeves.

As for the pants, Lauren went for a classic sailor motif in skinny stovepipes. His other favorites were Cossack pants shown in burgundy and navy, sometimes pleated for extra volume.

Lauren broke up the mannish influence with lovely fluid dresses in deep-toned velvets and a beautiful series of evening-gowns.

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