Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s fall collection was about nostalgia for their childhood. Their fall lineup was softer, prettier and generally more palatable. Yet it was not a return to the ethereal romance and couture-like creations of their early days.

A series of fluttery chiffon styles — dresses and a jumpsuit — with smocked bodices studded with crystals could have shimmied across the party deck of the Love Boat. They came in orange, brown, mustard and chalky pastels, setting the Seventies tone in terms of color scheme and style. Deep red paper-bag pants were worn with a gray turtleneck and a crocheted sweater.
Turtlenecks were everywhere — solids and clingy mélange knits that were layered under off-the-shoulder sweaters, dresses, long lace gowns and tailored glitter jackets with shearling collars.

The finale featured five asymmetric draped silk charmeuse gowns printed with imagery from the designers’ favorite movie trilogy: Luke Skywalker, C-3PO, R2-D2 and Yoda.

First View New York Womenswear FW2014: American Sportswear

Extreme weather-conditions this season make a matching backdrop for the functional as well as imaginative city-sport outfits that passed us on the New York runways. 21^st century fabric technology facilitates utilitarian, sensorial as well as sensual fashion looks. We met heat-sensitive materials, extremely dimensional knits, embossed leathers, space-age treatments and Day-Glo shadings.

Alexander Wang shows cutting-edge technical finishings in yellow-splashed sweaters with crinkled surfaces that change colors through the models’ body heat. 3.1 Phillip Lim presents pretty collage prints in peppy cold-weather pastels on bombers as well as dresses. Thakoon goes cocooning with turtleneck shoulder fitted cape-lets, funnel-neck scarfs and soft shearling jackets. Alexander Wang stages bold and brutal boots matched with smart tailoring – lofty balloon silhouettes in featherweight parachute silks and satins.

Luxury solutions for sensitive survivalists.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2014, Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

After spring’s surf-and-sand theme, Tommy Hilfiger created another impressive set by transforming the Park Avenue Armory into a rugged wintry scene with mountains capped in fake snow, ski lodges and a wooden path as runway. This was an all-American scene, down to the first riffs of the soundtrack: Neil Young’s ‘Cinnamon Girl’.

Then came the parade of models in a variety of outfits that were fun and feisty in attitude: a striped plaid shirt with a matching ruffled skirt, a youthful shirtdress in a Technicolor check.

The outerwear was equally strong, delivering a cool spin to mountaineering staples. Even Hilfiger himself took his bow dressed in a vest, woodsy plaid shirt, jeans and hiking boots. His models, meanwhile, worked an utterly charming take on the motif — all plaids, puffers and teddy fur and pom-pom beanies.

Prabal Gurung Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Prabal Gurung payed a trip to his home in Nepal and visited a tiny place called Mustang in the Himalayas. He was caught by the traditional culture and serenity and translated that into his fall-collection.
The designer infused his lineup with a sense of ease beginning with beautiful melange knits — capes and trapeze shapes — elegantly bundled with scarves and crafty Mongolian lamb coats worn over draped chiffon skirts. Nepal provided more than inspiration — some of the cashmeres were produced there.

There was balance to everything, whether the fluidity and structure of tailored jackets and pants laced with draped satin panels, or the drama and softness of cocktail dresses and gowns embellished with mosaic crystals and ostrich feathers.

Done in warm colors, such as crimson and orange, the finale was romantic and racy.

Theory Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Olivier Theyskens wants the label Theory to be neat, disciplined and precise. And he serves that mandate well, regarding the presentation yesterday. He escalated the collection’s core of minimal basics by tweaking proportions and developing fabrics. The classic white shirt came elongated as a crisp, straight tea-length dress and a roomier version that cut away on the left side. The asymmetrical hem was a repeat effect bringing controlled drama to dresses, some with transparent skirts, and hourglass jackets that were folded into structured ruffles on one side.

The more lyrical side was revealed in shiny jackets — silk bonded to wool — embroidered with green and silver florals.

Helmut Lang Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The collection of Michael and Nicole Colovos for Helmut Lang was called Rough Terrain and inspired by satellite photos of Mars. The duo played with cool abstract prints and pebbly textures that reflected the planet’s surface images.

Working in a neutral palette with shots of red, the designers focused on trans-seasonal pieces worked in lightweight fabrics — thin angora knits, minimalistic wool suiting and fluffy fur sweaters had a light feel.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

It was an emotional moment when Donna Karan took her bow yesterday after her show – she celebrated 30 years in fashion and that didn’t happen easily. But the applause was well deserved, not only because she is a remarkable designer, but also because her fall-collection had everything Karan is famous for. A collection with a city vibe, sensual, urbane.
Her show opened with with three versions of her original building block — the body — now rendered as body jacket and body shirt as well as bodysuit. These were worn with over-the-knee suede boots and caps frothed with dollops of long-hair shearling, giving the models the air of showgirls at a decadent yet refined nightclub. They set the stage for a parade of the Best of Donna.
Evening-wear rocked, particularly the gowns with fluid, translucent skirts that wafted provocatively over bodysuits and bare legs. Some were beaded in celebration of New York’s night sky.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2014, Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Alezander Wang presented an impressive collection, which started with the idea of extreme conditions and survival. To editors the designer mentioned National Geographic, the great outdoors, competitive sports and the urban landscape. He translated that into sporty silhouettes lavished with detail. Spare, seriously tailored tunics layered with sharp shirts provided a baseline look that Wang built out through the show. He added puffy utility pockets and then moved into a colorful, paisley foulard moment, before escalating the fabric development into knotted leather-and-tulle sweaters and fluorescent jerseys made of woven shoe-laces. The leather-work continued in interesting coats and tunics with raw-cut hems.
Accessories were designed like thematic toys: utility handbags with detachable compartments molded into shapes for a lighter, an iPhone, a Moleskine notebook and a flask. Two boot styles — one like a shin guard, one over-the-knee — were likened to shields. And the ultimate special effect: the finale of all-black outfits that turned colors — purple, green and blue — thanks to heat-sensitive fabric.

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