Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier’s are now designing the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection for one year, and their message of youth, energy and grit remained strong and unwavering in attitude and aesthetic.

Bartley and Hillier have already secured their girl’s identity through a commendable consistency in the collections — the military references, graphic art, motor jackets and tailored skirts with tulle. For fall they steered in a defiant but positive direction, drawing on references including the work of artist William Morris, the Guardian Angels, the 1979 film “The Warriors” and Jeremy Deller’s political posters, which were channeled into graphic decorative statements.

The most notable progression were the long, lean silhouettes of structured maxi skirts and dresses, some with utility pockets, some bearing Morris’ pretty Arts and Crafts prints in shades of bright blue and muted green. The length gave the look a cool maturity that resonated in the refined cuts of neat, tailored fencing jackets, skinny cropped trousers and short dresses with molded bell-shaped skirts that had a smooth buoyancy.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

The starting point for the latest Rodarte collection was birds. Migrating birds. Birds migrating from city to country. But is looked like it was all about disco. There were multicolor sequin stripes; one-shoulder dresses; a crystal mesh material that read as a kind of magic lamé; and that Bob Mackie-style, heavy-duty figurative bead embroidery that’s done a long-term penance in the thrift shop bins.

The connection between birds and disco was color: Avian plumage prompted a relook at that rainbow-hued, peacocking disco moment. And it’s also true that the bird reference wasn’t so far-flung, given the preponderance of feathers on the Rodarte runway.
 

Streetfashion Womenswear New York FW2015, Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

Ready to Fish by Ilja Visser Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Un-related to any specific theme or inspiration, Ready to Fish by Ilja Visser started with a blank canvas to present a collection that reads like a sketchbook, and a compendium of the Ready to Fish style. It was important for them to capture the sketch-like quality of the unfinished – leaving room for both our own as the customers imagination and interpretation.
As a metaphor for this collation of ideas, used classic marble prints, adorning sketchbooks and archive folders that will prove instantly recognizable to everyone. The collection also emphasizes the idea that many archetypes that inspired the designer belong to the public domaine, and that the use of codes, references verses our own interpretations and developments are at constant play throughout the design process.

Tommy Hilfiger Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Tommy Hilfiger started his company in 1985. And in three decades he has established a serious company with all the Americana people love. In the past 30 years, Hilfiger has ridden the wave of designer stardom, always with a certain admirable confidence. Maybe that’s because he has been unfailing in his love of Americana in its many, many guises. To kick off his 30th anniversary celebration, he created a Fall collection inspired equally by American football and Love Story.
He staged the show at the Park Avenue Armory, which was transformed into a football stadium, with a Jumbotron capturing the fashion plays as models walked the runway in Ali MacGraw-inspired ’70s-prep silhouettes. They were wearing faux-fur stadium jackets with red-stitched toggles, wool cashmere ponchos, and several looks in bouclé plaid. The jacket of a shorts suit, for instance, was decorated with a knitted striped collar. Those athletic stripes added a sporty detail to just about every item, many of which were decorated with little pins and stars reminiscent of 1940s football paraphernalia.

For Hilfiger, this was just the beginning of a year of celebration.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Donna Karan’s whole career has been inspired by New York City. For Fall she used the nighttime skyline as a backdrop for the runway, and made the blacks and grays of the buildings and the glinting golds of their lights her show’s central colors. Perched on platform sandals or boots, the collection’s long, lean silhouette owed something to the city’s new class of super-scrapers. New York is tall and getting taller. It’s a melting pot, too. Obi-like belts and origami folds on the one hand and opulent, burnished brocades on the other conveyed something of its multicultural glamour.

Depending on the season, Karan shifts between tailoring and dresses. This collection was mostly built on the former. All manner of jackets, from blazers to a leather bomber, were belted at the midriff above tapering trousers or narrow skirts. Her evening dresses had a modern spirit.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York FW2015 Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Trooper Maartje Verhoef opened the DKNY show dressed in a sporty/casual look. Nude skirt, blue V neck sweater, white turtle neck underneath, double breasted grey overcoat. A sportive, urban ensemble which set the mood for what was about to follow. Modern looking, structured looks representing Donna Karan’s ‘New York uniform’. Suits and dresses, bomber jackets and sweaters. Asymmetric skirts, extra long sleeves. Neoprene and tweed in the mix with wool and leather. Some pleated sheerness and a touch of tulle to go. Boxy silhouettes and bright pops of color. A brooch, a snake skin sleeve, some glitter on the collar of a camel coat and cut outs of colorful beads softened the edginess of the collection. A vibrant collection conveying all aspects of the Big Apple life. ‘What is New York?’, Donna asked her audience. And though just a tiny part, this might be it.

Diane von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

As gender bending is becoming one of fashion’s latest ‘trends’ Diane von Furstenberg allowed herself to play along. Not only did she presented her iconic wrap dresses, she also presented designs a bit more masculine. Like a number of pinstripe creations and a blue tuxedo suit. Masculine influences presented in the most feminine way, combined with lace, silk, sheerness and floral prints. Black and white with touches of blue and red. Unbuttoned collars, accentuated waists. Cleavages and slits. Brush strokes and bird prints in the mix. Matching bags, polka dot hosiery and peep toe pumps to top it off. Yet perhaps it was all a bit much. Maybe the simplistic look Kendall Jenner wore opening the show should have set the example for the following looks; clean, modern, feminine and 100% true to DvF’s DNA.

Thakoon Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Seventies vibes were in the air at Thakoon. Yet, after so many seventies inspired shows the last couple of months, Thakoon managed to take it to a new, fall/winter level. No plain flared denim, brown suede and fringes here. But rich colored stripes, exotic floral prints and midi lengths instead. Seductive sheerness and sparkling embellishments covered the festive part of the collection. As loose fitting pleated pants, white shirts and fur accents represented more business-y looks. East inspired references could be seen in the colorful embroideries and shiny silk. While flared flapper kind of skirts had a certain boho vibe. A sheer pleated, floral printed skirt matched with a sequined navy jumper was one of the most wearable and modern looking attires. A style bound to be copied by bloggers, editors and classy lady’s all around. To strut or to swirl in and make an impressive entrance in any case.

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