Streetfashion New York Womenswear SS2016, Day 1

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. First stop: New York Fashion Week.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

No one gets the cool kid like Alexander Wang does. The focus of the designer, who celebrated the 10^th anniversary of his eponymous brand on the first day of New York Fashion Week, has always been the cool girl with not only a lot of style but street cred too. And leave it up to Wang to create her ultimate modern SS2016 wardrobe. He has been covering her looks successfully for the past decade after all.
No arty inspiration needed here as Wang stated his summer looks simply had ‘no concept’. They were just cool, young, urban, ready to wear pieces. Like deconstructed denim, overalls, wide striped pants, heavy leather, lace up details, mesh tops, pajama silks, slip dresses, chain detailing and matching menswear looks.
Proof of Wang’s cool factor and success is in everything. Not only do his clothes sell so well, but the most happening models and music artist simply adore him. Just ask party guests Kanye, Gaga, Miguel and Nicki or performers Tinashe, Lil Wayne and Ludacris. With his work for Balenciaga coming to an end Wang will focus on his own label for the next few years. A smart move. Alexander Wang has more than enough potential and there are far too many cool kids depending on him.

 

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

This year year is Riccardo Tisci’s tenth at the Givenchy-house, and there was a sense of celebration and coming of age amongst the clothes. It was a collection which spelled out and repeated almost calligraphic black and white variations of the same sentences: Ivory slip dresses and rouleau-strapped camisoles with lace edges, worn over excellently tailored black pants cut to taper gently over pointed shoes. Supple crepe tuxedo jackets with tails, soft kimono coats, and transparent organdy trenches glimmering with jet embroidery. Many, many body-skimming sparkly silver shifts.

Aficionados of Tisci maybe recognized the most spectacular of his couture dresses, one with a degrade feather effect, and another with leather patches applied on tulle in the shape of alligator skin. And then there was the face decoration, taken to another level of beautiful elaboration, in studded golden jewelry, tulle frills, and lace.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk, Fashion Show New York FW2015

Last season Marc Jacobs’ collection was all about military as an influence, his fall 2015 collection is military precision with no military reference. Everything was planned, crafted and polished to arch perfection, starting with the beauty — severe top knots and makeup; pristine manicures and pedicures despite gloves and covered shoes.

Within this exacting platform, Jacobs determined to parade the essence of the Marc Jacobs brand. To that end, he reviewed his past collections, selecting favorite recurring themes or specific elements to rework here: trompe l’oeil, dots, feminine looks in masculine fabrics, masculine looks in feminine fabrics, embellished coats, decorative sweats, patchwork furs, sweaters with argyle and heathers created with dazzling embroideries, references to art (Paul McCarthy; Space Invader), Saint Laurent, cartoon characters.

When many of these motifs first appeared in the Jacobs lexicon they were simpler: a dress with faux-pleats made of fabrics was just that. Here, everything was jeweled, embroidered, grommeted, sequined. Brocades topped crinolines and lined furs. A tweedy twinset was in fact sequins; an argyle, faux-python embroidery. Shearling was shorn into checks, mink sewn into chevron stripes and worn on the reverse side. Mannish coats flaunted sparkling jet cascades.

Proenza Schouler Catwalk fashion Show New York FW2015

The work of the abstract expressionists of the midcentury New York School inspired Proenza Schoulers fall collection. The designers looked specifically at the work of Helen Frankenthaler.

The collection pulsed with a raw power that started if not quietly, then simply, in the unfinished edges of thick tweeds and escalated into an intense tribal reverie. The first look set the tone of bravado — a tweed jacket and pants, everything about it exaggerated: unfinished seams, extralong sleeves; wide, looped-over self-belt; pants made of flapping panels, giant-sized fishnet hose, a thick, circular shawl encasing the shoulders.

All of those elements would recur, becoming more extreme in a fabulous display of fashion. The dominant silhouette was lean through the torso, releasing into more volume starting with the powerful lineup of coats and jackets in spotted calf, boiled felt inspired by the splayed felt work of Robert Morris. The fabrics were major, from the array of tweeds to various needle-punched treatments, including a black and red chiffon crepe that created a mottled, aged effect.

The weightiness of the outerwear found counterpoint in a new take on the bandage dress, wrapped and slashed to reveal skin and attitude. Another dress, a white sheath, got tufts of au sauvage fur at the waist and shoulders. Eventually these ideas mingled, becoming increasingly decorative for the finale of triballike motifs rendered in slashes, eyelets, grommets and intense embroideries, worn by a procession of glamorous she-warriors. Power dressing of a different sort.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York FW2015, Day 5

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York FW2015, Day 4

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Opulent restraint, that was the theme of Michael Kors fall 2015 collection. A very American idea referring to Wallace Simpson, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. All of these women understood how to play with the yin and the yang.
Kors’ fall collection was runway reality at its most alluring. He showed both languid and tailored, the former in pretty bias dresses and sweater dressing; the latter working that gender yin-yang crossover — tweeds, trousers, crisp shirts and especially the outerwear, including a trench-cape hybrid worthy of an ultrachic Sherlock. In the opulent column, Kors’ fabrics were luxe, but often quietly so — the tony cashmeres and wools, the silk foulards.

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

It was Peter Coppings big night, presenting his debut collection for the house of Oscar de la Renta. And it was a graceful start. His Oscar debut was part homage, part anthology representative of the house’s range. He offered the spectrum: pretty dresses, constructed suits, sleek coat-over-dress looks. A series of graphic tweeds were inspired by the configurations of the buildings and windows he sees out his studio window; the legacy of celebratory color pushed Copping toward the occasional vibrant day look, including a full-skirted suit in fanciful red-violet. Copping infused the evening pieces with a certain youthfulness by using unlined lace for bodices, and working on new necklines. Some of the grander ball gowns could’ve used more fine-tuning. But if the fit on those numbers wasn’t quite as finessed as longtime Oscar followers remember, Copping demonstrated his deft sense of color—midnight blue and violet, chartreuse and bordeaux—and a special eye for detail. An ivory column with black embroidered flowers was exquisite, all the more so when it walked by and you got a look at the deep lace inset in back. There was a lot of poise in that gown.

Streetfashion Womenswear New York FW2015, day 3

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Burberry-boots, that vintage Dior or your latest Celine coat? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2015.

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