Victoria Beckham’s idea for fall 2016 was to make the bustier appropriate for day She cut it in unexpected materials like Prince of Wales check with a bright waxed thread stitched through it and in thick, spongy houndstooth jacquards, both with cutouts sliced below the bustline. These fabrics aren’t necessarily designed to hug a woman’s curves, but she can also opt for the body-con ribbed knit pieces (solids and striped) that Beckham layered over each other to achieve a similarly curvy effect.
To balance that, she also experimented with volume, sending out bubble skirts and others that flared generously to below the knee over flat shoes. Outerwear was strong: Softly structured clutch coats with fringe detailing at the hem shared the runway with more sartorially, sharply tailored numbers in menswear checks.
While New York was trying to survive the cold, harsh weather in aggressively styled, street-influenced layers, it could not foresee that this also echoed in Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne’s fall collection of Public School. That meant their compilations of oversize, athletic outerwear, sweeping tailoring and utility gear is relevant and resonating in the streets of today. It also meant the idea is not so new. Chow and Osborne weren’t static about it, though. They kept things fresh with a few bold fuchsia and rust combinations to jolt all the abundance of black, and worked in knit coats and big jeans with raw, fringed finishes that brought a worked-on hand to the lineup. The rugged shearlings looked cool and perfect for todays weather.
designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon from Opening Ceremony chose a future-focused them for their fall 2016 collection. They took their cues from Syd Mead, the artist who designed the cityscape in Blade Runner and the digiscape of Tron. Lim and Leon projected themselves into a future where people still need matter-of-fact outerwear to keep them warm while they’re riding around on their hoverboards, and miniskirts and over-the-knee boots to wear on their virtual reality dates, and slouchy knits and boot-cut jeans for casual dinners out. The futurism was mostly reflected in the collection’s holographic fabrications, which ran from lacquered croc print to burnout metallic swirls to high-shine velvet jacquard. One of the coolest textiles here was a fine knit embedded with multicolor crystals. Also cool: the Opening Ceremony tees and palazzo pants in a lamé-like silver fabric.
Leon and Lim also paid homage to Syd Mead directly in a number of pieces, knitting his illustrations into sweaters and printing them onto sweatshirts.
Alexander Wangs’s fall show was a trip back to the age of experimental adolescence: ignore outdated taboos and instead seek what’s off limits was his message.
But taboos are hard to find these days. So-called bad taste is a megatrend right now, coursing through fashion up from the street and down from the runways. Wang’s collection, with its mash-up of prim tweed suits and tank dresses subverted by hefty hardware and skimpy hemlines; delicate, sheer tulle tops disrupted with brash censor bars bearing words like “strict” and “tender” across the breasts; and pretty lace insets shaped like marijuana leaves on dresses, was more cute than vulgar. The pink corduroys that riffed on classic prep by replacing polo ponies with strippers on a pole were particularly on-the-nose.
The accessories were good, too, including an expansion on Wang’s recently launched jewelry collection with chain-link rhodium earrings and leather-and-rhodium chokers.
A fresh season has kicked off with an explosive week filled with fashion. So while you’re packing up your wellies and trenches to head over to the next fashion capital (London calling) we’d like to look back on the biggest trends from the big apple. We’ve filtered what caught our eyes from Givenchy’s most impressive show to Marc Jacobs’ One Night Only spectacle. Here’s a first look on 9 summer trends for 2016 you don´t want to miss.
“Marc Jacobs: One Night Only!” read the light box above the Ziegfeld theatre, the location of Marc Jacobs fashion show and the cinema where he, growing up in New York, saw so many movies. And oh boy, did Marc treat us to a special night out. As the stars of the evening, models acting as celebrities (even though they sometimes actually are in real life, hello Kendall Jenner) strutted the red carpet and posed in front of the Marc Jacobs photo wall we were escorted to our seats where we could watch them make their entrance. A live band played the New York Dolls’s 1973 song “Trash.” as Natalie Westling, dressed in an asymmetric raffia skirt and blue sweater, kicked off the fashion show. Clothes ranged from full on sequined and sheer party wear to sportive baseball jackets and striped sweaters. From denim on denim (as seen on Saskia de Brauw) to rock chick gone bridal (the final look). Stripes, stars, checks and prints of painted faces emphasized the theatre theme. Yet it was a bit back and forth with style, silhouette and color palette. Not to mention Marc’s selection of models was a bit out of the ordinary (hello Beth Ditto). Marcs SS2016 vision was hard to grasp in the short time frame of the show. The elegance and refinement of Marc Jacobs were still there. Yet looks were given a more playful Marc by Marc Jacobs touch. As if the designers discontinued fashion line and it’s bigger sister had merged. Presenting us with the best of both MJ worlds.
Choosing a nautical theme for your SS show might not be the most refreshing or renewing thing. Yet Ralph Lauren gave his sailor chic collection just the right twist. Yes there were blue and white stripes all over, there were crispy white shirts and sailor hats, sweaters tossed over shoulders and standing collars. All ingredients any sophisticated French Riviera goer might already have in her closet for years (and years). But looks got an undated touch too. Like the cut-outs on a navy body hugging dress revealing a white cropped top underneath. Or the bright colored print on the side of a wide legged pair of trousers. Not to mention some layered white looks and a light brown leather on leather look sported by Maartje Verhoef. And then there were the wavy lines on some of the evening numbers. Elegant, feminine and fresh. The overall feel of the collection was still absolutely classic, preppy and wealthy. But just modern enough to rock the boat next summer.
Slip dresses are, besides those famous boxers Biebs parades in these days, perhaps the fashion piece Calvin Klein is best known for. So in yesterday’s show Francisco Costa made sure he put some focus on them. He gave the dresses, done in a porcelain palette and matched with simple trainers, a deconstructed touch, straps and fringes dangling everywhere. Making looks feel messy and giving them a certain je ne sais quoi-touch. Pieces thrown on without putting much thought to it. Like you would on The Morning After; the show’s theme. Blossom prints added an extra touch of romanticism to the story as elegant chains gave the finale of silky slip dresses even more grace. A fresh approach for Costa whose CK collections were so serene, clean and minimalistic before.
What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. First stop: New York Fashion Week.
After Donna Karan went out with a bang last season fresh faces at the DKNY designer’s desk Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne took over. Yesterday they presented their first collection for the brand inspired by what is perhaps Donna Karan’s most iconic fashion piece: the pinstripe power suit. They kept things very clean and simple, which gave the DKNY girl a super sophisticated and modern update. In a monochrome palette (we spotted just two touches of blue at the end of the show) the designers introduced a boxy blazer (worn by Maartje Verhoef) as a dress, a pinstriped pencil skirt matched with a basic white Tee and the most plain white playsuit. Simple, plain, elementary, yet never dull. Chow and Osborne made sure of that by sending out multiple variations of that particular power suit. The jackets double breasted and roomy. The dresses layered and asymmetric. Sheer T-shirts slowly transformed into a selection of sheer midi finale dresses. Loose hanging straps and chic simple clutches were the only accessories of the show. Were there enough new elements to give DKNY it’s own identity without the label’s founder on board? We’re not sure yet. But this was a show stuffed with youthful, commercial looks any NYC-girl would want to wear. No doubt about it. And while her autobiography hits stores this week Donna Karan herself approved of this collection by attending from her front row seat. New beginnings just had a great start.
Our own fashiondictionary Real Highlander There are only a few. Famous ones are Sonia Rykiel, Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and Vivienne Westwood. They're around for at least 75 years and have designed over 750 different collections. The rumour goes they survive by sucking blood of male virgins to revitalize in between seasons.