Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Alexander McQueen

The Alexander McQueen-collection for fall 2010 was an entirely printed collection—of suits, leather coats, ski masks, even shoes. Some of the prints were on the dark side (like a pile of human skulls and bones), some simply puzzling (smeared paint, fur, knits, drops of rain). The silhouet was pretty stiff and straight, with ski-like trousers, shorter jackets and 3/4 coats sometimes half patent/half wool.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Versace

Alexandre Plokhov, design director for Versace menswear, took the new movie ‘Tron Legacy’ as inspiration for his fall-collection. The result was a vision of a futuristic world, but also back to Gianni Versace’s days of hard-edged metal mesh. This was agood show, sharp as a laser beam and glossy. Plokhov modernized Gianni’s original ideas, giving the black leather a bursting-bubble decoration and weaving metal mesh into vests or as shoulder pieces. The neon-patterns on shirts looked like tie-dye leaking, but were all digital.  These were often mixed with sleek suits in cyber blue.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Gucci

Gucci showed us the tasteful side of the Seventies – a period where a lot of mensweardesigners refer to for their fall-collections. Tasteful as in: monochrome camel, beige, black and off-white, faded blues, yellow and reds but also rich colors. This was not the most remarkeable Gucci-collection, as in new. The silhouet is still slim, with shorter jackets which had broader lapels, no excess of big accessories except for classic Gucci loafers, big sunglasses and a big bag. The Gucci man is still an angry young playboy, but he’s waiting for better times to come. It’s remarkablke that hardly any label shows tuxedo’s these days, I guess partytime is over. ‘ Come as you are’ sang Kurt Cobain while the last pack of models strolled down the runway. The Gucci-man just wears a velvet jacket in midnightblue, bottlegreen or burgundy. No bow, no shirt.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dirk Bikkembergs

Not only people from the fashion industry could attend Dirk Bikkembergs Sports Couture show this year; tickets to the show were also sold to any fashion lover who wanted to pay for it. The money that was raised by this, would go to charity.

After a countdown,  tough-looking muscular men appeared on the catwalk to the beat of our favorite Michael Jackson songs.

The Bikkembergs collection was inspired by the world of mountaineering, so the models were dressed in a way they could resist extreme weather conditions. They wore knitted sweaters and were wrapped in cashmere and mohair. Most of them had caps on their heads and wore thick gloves. They walked the runway on flip flops with thick socks in it and high boots with colored laces.

While his pants were nothing special, Dirk showed some good jackets. We loved a white trenchcoat and a black & white dinner jacket. Many jackets had fur collars and shoulders with leather accents.

Underneath these jackets some models wore a T-shirt with the image of an ice-bear, that vaguely resembled the popular Christopher Kane gorilla T-shirts.

At the end of the show a happy Dirk Bikkembergs waved to the audience. Although we thought his collection was pretty safe and predictable, at least he was having a blast.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: John Varvatos

An impression of the stage at John Varvatos: an old church with scattered fresco’s and candlelight in the back. A perfect setting for the collection: rockers turned into businessmen but still sticking to black, their boots, leather and bulky knits.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Prada

The Prada-show was held in the designers ideal – virtual- world full of facts & figures, info-graphics and spaces. A world that seems  more appealing to young people who easily absorb all that information. It was the young Miucca was aiming to. The models strolled through the labyrinth of info in their sometimes childlike, polished clothes in bright camouflage-prints or bleached colors, beige and black. The collection had that typical vintage Prada touch – like an old seventies Vogue Homme – without being too dorky. The look was polished, almost synthetic, but the colors (yellow, rose, blue, beige and black) and fractal-camouflage added the right dose of reality and warmth.

Milan Catwalk Show fw2010: impression of prada

An impression of the stage at Prada, a labyrinth of information, facts & figures and choices regarding (virtual) daily life. The world of Prada, as the designer said.  The audience was seated in colored blocks or at a high tribune.

Milan Catwalk Fashion show fw2010: Roberto Cavalli

The Roberto Cavalli fashion show was a mix of several themes. There were military influences and Victorian details. Yet the show was also very Cavalli due to the use of jaguar prints.

One piece of clothing really stood out: tartan trousers, cut just under the knee. Those trousers came by in a few variations matched with large coats, metal mash tank tops or velour’s jackets. One metallic top had such a detailed pattern that the material resembled lace fabric.

Roberto Cavalli accentuated the men’s body in the right way with this collection; small at the bottom and wide at the top. So his trousers were tight and his big jackets had emphasized shoulders and XL collars with often, not one but two, fur layers.

The models wore shiny shoes in different shades. Their feminine metal belts had all sorts of frills and therefore were real showpieces.

The use of military as a theme may not have been quite renewing. Yet overall the Cavalli collection was creative and sophisticated.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Salvatore Ferragamo

After the sound of trampling hoofs the Ferragamo models slowly came on to the runway. The collection meant to present the elegance and pride of ‘a man on horseback’ and show his sophistication and casual look.

This resulted in great balanced outfits in warm natural colors like orange, chocolate brown, velvet and red.

The models wore loose-knitted scarfs with long fringes. They looked comfortable in some large knitted cardigans with leather belts on top of them.

Ferragamo’s trousers were striped and his thick jackets had the tartan look going on. A few good old toggle coats came by and we saw some dignified jackets with a smooth satin finishing.

Altogether the use of knitwear, leather and cashmere made up for a luxurious-looking Ferragamo collection.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Neil Barrett

« Previous Page — Next Page »