Prada Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The menswear summer-collection Prada sent out yesterday had a sporty marine-vibe thanks to all the blue & white, the navyblue fishermen-sweaters, the boxy bermudas, wide trousers and lots of keels. It reminded me of the sportsgear sailors wear during a storm or a windy day at the boat. It looked boyish too because of the oversized silhouettes, the multi-colored knitwear and last but not least the shoes with thick soles. You could almost hear them squeeze.

Prada played with proportions too, the slim and tight-fitted 3-buttoned suits contrasted with the boxy outfits and reminded me of early Raf Simons-collections. Not only because of the fit, also the way the models looked with their sharp faces and impeccable haircut and the Bauhaus-music.

This was the second collection that tried to bring bright colors back into menswear, orange, green, yellow, red and blue gave the collection an energetic feel.

In a review at style.com I read Miucca Prada was also inspired by simple uniforms like that of postmen and doctors and that she wanted everything as simple as possible in terms of fabrication, construction and silhouette. That’s why she used cotton (lots of denim too) and that’s why she landed on the idea of working-clothes.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear ss2011 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Milan.

Vivienne Westwood Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Today the Vivienne Westwood show area turned into a circus. There were no elephants or tigers, but we saw quite a lot of clowns. Absolutely everything appearing on the runway was screaming for attention. To start with, there was a huge pile of old TV’s on stage. Then the models came on stage. Dresses in colorful, printed, shiny outfits full of crazy details.

Vivienne presented a crazy kind of streetstyle in which we saw rolled up legs, high-waisted pants, short suit jackets, shiny disco-pants, polos, V-neck sweaters and tight swimwear. As if those items weren’t eye-catching enough, they all had different prints. The suits got a mix of checks and stripes, the tops had a more spacey print on them.

On top of the attention-screaming outfits there were some hysterical accessories, like small feminine scarves, colorful belts, striped braces, small printed ties, bright knee stockings (worn in open shoes) and canvas bags. One model had a sailing boat as a hat.

As an extra the models wore questionable wigs and had tattoos. Besides, some entered the runway on skateboards, while others carried big parasols with a text on the show’s theme – endangered species – on it. Even the model’s poses at the end of the catwalk were exaggerated.

If Vivienne Westwood was to portray any message with this collection we think it was that there are no boundaries in fashion and that you have to make your outfit into your own little party.

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

You’ll never know what to expect with Armani. But one thing you know for sure: he does his own thing being it off trend or not. Well all the tough leather he sent out today was on trend, we’ve seen it in more collections this week, but the erotic edge was new and daring for a label like Emporio Armani. The designer  probably got caught by Lady Gaga’s videoclip Alejandro, in which he dressed the police-like posse.

But if you leave all the styling behind, what is left are some good, black leather pieces. Like a skinny pant, a (sleeveless) jacket and a shirt. Perfect items to mix with a pair of jeans, a short or  loose, linen pants. And please, shall we ban the mix of shiny leggings with bermuda’s? That’s something for soccer-players who are afraid of the cold, but not for normal human beings.

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Like at Versace, the soundtrack used for Gianfranco Ferre’s fashion show was a song by Talking Heads. Their hit from 1977  ‘Psycho Killer’ was on the speakers and surely had a good rhythm for the models to walk on.

For summer 2011 Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi used a soft color palette with hues of beige, light blue and gray. Light stripes and graphic zigzag prints were added to several looks.

According to the show notes Gianfranco Ferré was going oriental with this collection. This was visible through the sober sweaters with standing colors and the tops that closed diagonally. Perhaps the weird hats (that matched with not one of the outfits) belonged to that theme as well.

Most of the blouses, jackets and pants looked comfy. Yet they also resembled men’s pyjama’s and therefore won’t become a huge hit. On the contrary, some of the double breasted jackets, a few trench coats and the final look (a black & white tuxedo) were perfection.

Unfortunately the collection didn’t breath summer. There were precisely three shorts, no tees, all looks had long sleeves and the models wore too much layers for spring/summer.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The Bottega Veneta show was a parade of sexy, well-dressed men from the beginning till the end. Apart from making beautiful garments Tomas Maier had fun with it too. There were all sorts of playful details on the clothes he designed.

One detail that kept coming back was a thin loose-hanging collar/piece of fabric. It had absolutely no function, it was just a funny accent.

Other playful details Maier added were lots of zippers, drawstrings, pockets and rolled up sleeves and legs. Those gave the outfits a more technical and sporty look, while the double breasted suit jackets with the pointy collars appeared more formal.

Maier chose to use a few colors (blue, red, green), but managed to keep the looks very manly. The leather bags, that bring in an important part of the fashion house’s sales, matched with the hues of the clothes.

Altogether the suits, the belted trousers, the leather shorts, the parkas and the torso-revealing tops made a steady menswear collection from which any modern man would love to have one or two items…

..together with the bearded models and their hot bodies it all resulted in a wonderful fashion show.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Set in an old park in the hills of Florence, Raf Simons sent out an energetic menswear-collection for Jil Sander thanks to the beautiful bright colors and vibrating stripes. I watched the Web stream – but even without being there the clothes looked crispy and clean and very upbeat. Color was the message, without trying too hard. They worked best when mixed together, like orange pants with a turquoise sweater or a purple coat mixed with pink, turquoise and nightblue. The patterns were surprising too, especially the multi-colored stripes that made a psychedelic effect and will definitely be adapted in the fast fashion-collections. Softer were the flowerprints, that gave a particular touch to the vibrant color-blocking.

The collection consisted of shorts (as seen in many other collections), casual jackets, shirts, trenchcoats and belts which gave  it all a sporty touch. Nice details: the reflecting spots at the back of jackets and the colored soles of the shoes.

Let’s hope men will catch up with it, at least with a  colorful shirt or coat – it will definitely make the sun come out.

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show ss2011

For the recent wintercollection of Burberry Christopher Bailey went back to the roots of the old British label: the trenches of World War 1 en 2. And for his recent summercollection Bailey mixed the army-wear with skintight, vintage biker-pants and cropped weathered jackets.

Once again Bailey got all the military heritage at the stage and restored all the accents, like epaulets, belts and straps. The trenches looked sharp and clean. Colors were alike moving from black tot navy-blue, khaki and green. It looked like a solid, commercial collection with lots of items to put on your wish-list. If I were a man I would definitely save money for a black biker-jacket, a thin shirt and a clean, leather trench. But as a fashion-collection it did not stand out – I’ve seen better Burberry-collections with great shirts and accessories, in new colors and interesting daring  design, combinations or fabrics.

But hey, these are the days of surviving in the fashionworld.  And I forgive the designer for being so honest and calculating. Thanks to him Burberry is still going strong. It’s simply time to invest in great classic pieces, fast fashion can wait for now.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Many pale, young male models walked in Versace’s rockabilly-inspired fashion show today. Their eye-catching hairdo’s, tight-fitting clothes and small silver necklaces gave them an absolute edgy look. They looked tough, like you wouldn’t want to mess with them.

The fact that they had to wear the most psychedelic (printed and sleeveless) blouses seemed to make them even more aggressive. But we can understand that. Donatella came up with the strangest graphic prints for those blouses. She introduced those as a tribute to the iconic images Bruce Weber made in the 80’s.

Like today at Calvin Klein all blouses were fully buttoned. So that might just become one of the new trends for next year. Apart from the blouses, Donatella designed many tight suits with rolled up legs and leather jackets with fringes.

Towards the end some printed beachwear was shown. Not in color, but in black & white, like the biggest part of the collection. But the absence of color didn’t bother us, Donatella’s prints were already spectacular enough!

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Dolce & Gabbana keep on celebrating their 20th anniversary with memorable events. Not only a cocktail and exhibition in the Palazzo Marino (City Hall) in the centre of Milan, but also with great theatrical fashionshows. The shows not only tell the story of their roots, but also of their creativity and passion.

Today’s menswearshow was all about passion and drama. The duo took inspiration from their beloved Sicily, especially from the fishermen. They took their simple, but inventive way of clothing – pants held together by a rope, fishnet-shirts, simple linen suits, sandals and shorts – and translated that in a casual, relaxed collection with white, black and sand as their main colors. I’m sure there was something for actor Morgan Freeman or Matthew McConnaughey who were attending the show.

But the most dramatic part was the performance of singer Annie Lennox. Dressed in a  huge ballgown she played the piano and acted like a real diva. Her voice sounded better than ever and she sang her evergreens passionately.

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