Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Costume National’s designer Ennio Capasa tried to mix traditional tailoring and fabric/construction research with a rebellious core. The result was less surprising as it sounds, because this is what he does every season. Experimenting with clean cuts, jackets without seams assembled by laser technique and a synthesis between formal and sportswear. Of course in signature black, with hints of res, royal blue, dark green and salmon for sweaters in soft mohair.

What I liked the most were the coats and jackets made of wool with leather sleeves, or made of fabric with knitted sleeves. But in the end it was a reset of ideas. Daring was a knitted tuxedo. And this season Capasa finally got rid of all the wite shirts and ties. In the name of a creative rebellion.

Ermenegildo Zegna Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

In a watery cold Milan the menswear fashionweek(end) took off with two classics: Corneliani and Ermenegildo Zegna. The design-team at Zegna seemed captured by China and mixed oriental themes with a more classic tailoring. Business suits had a sporty attitude thanks to the use of tweed-effects and utility touches. The silhouette was defined by straight shouldered three-button suits and jackets, as well as streamlined high-cuff trousers. The touch of China was visible in high collared Mao-jackets, bamboo-green, reds and shiny silk fabrics with a vintage patina. There was a slightly military touch to it thanks to army-belts, little leather pockets, combat-type boots and big shearling coats.

Item of the season will be the iPad-cases, as a sleeve or a shoulderbag. Almost every label is presenting one or more models in their collection.

It was a Live D fashion show, created in collaboration with director James Lima – who was a visual consultant on the film Avatar. Backstage models were filmed in the ‘Green Room’ using cutting edge filmtechnology. Front of house the images were projected on a giant screen in real time against a filmed backround, coinciding with the models arriving on the runway. The show unfolded both live and on screen  – as if the models were walking off the screen into the real dimension.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

For spring 2011 Michael Kors decided to design happy, colorful clothes. Backstage he was telling how he tried to incorporate all things in life that make him smile into his collection. He got inspired by his large terrace and the great beach life he lives.

The inspiration was visible through the colors in the show: beige, camel, green and pink. ‘In fact all colors I used, are colors you can find in the garden or on the beach’, Michael said.

The backdrop of the show was a green grass turf and even the models had a very natural look going on. Their hair was in a messy ponytail and they got red cheeks, which represented small sun burns.

The clothes were all very relaxed; long, over the knee skirts and jackets and loose fitting tops and dresses.  The designs looked effortless, without being boring. And according to Michael Kors that’s where fashion is going. ‘Clothes are going to be much more relaxed; longer lengths and more comfortable shoes’, he said. A minute later he added: ‘Clothes have to be cosy enough for at home, yet luxurious enough to wear in the city.’

Michael stressed the nature aspect of his collection by sending out some surprising looks which seemed to be made of turf. He showed some stunning bathing suits and combined a grey jersey sweater with a beige-shaded pair of glitter pants together in one contrastive look. The stuffy granny’s hats were not quite our taste, yet overall Michael showed enough great designs to choose from.

And the fact that he was proud of it, was proved by his whole victory lap at the end of the show. Bravo!

Non by Kim Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Kim Bakkers’ new fashion collection was inspired by lost tribes, people who live isolated and free of influences from other civilizations. Therefore it was called ‘Uncontacted’.

For this collection Kim reinterpreted the ethnic symbols of the lost tribes into a contemporary aesthetic. She translated their rich cultural traditions and hand-drawn body decorations into roughly geometric, clear-cut, hand drawn grid divisions.

The catwalk was surrounded by little speakers which created special extra sound effects during the show. For that Kim partnered with Steim, a music institution dedicated to live performance.

We saw perfect pleated pants with low crotches, cosy cardigans, asymmetric shirts and geometric prints. They all looked very well made and super comfy. Kim used materials like Japanese denim, wool and linen mixes. She also thought of the environment by choosing for organic and recycled cottons.

Shades of indigo ink, sand, poison green and off white formed a nice color palette. Especially in the prints these shades looked good together.

Kim cut off the length of the clothes which made the cardigans in particular look strangely short in a way. Some of the sweaters appeared a bit too hot for next summer, but overall Kim showed a strong collection.

Ado les Scents by Hyun Yeu Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Designer Hyun Yeu told us he was pretty nervous before today’s show. But there really was no need for that. For the third time Hyun Yeu proved he’s a talented designer who really has something to offer.

Today’s collection was inspired by the character of King Edward VIII, who gave up the English throne for a divorced American Woman. He named the collection The King Is Helpless. This inspiration was visible through looks that were vulnerable and romantic at the same time.

Yeu designed round shoulders, slightly puffy ¾ sleeves and little pleats in unexpected places. The clothes were made out of lightweight cottons, summer wools, silks and hi-tech fabrics. There were both casual and formal pieces in the collection.

Casual were the shorts, t-shirts and sport jackets, while suits (with checks), tailcoats and trenchcoats felt more formal. Several blouses were almost transparent and the shorts made of nylon resembled leather. All clothes came in pale green, light blue, navy, black and white, perfect shades for summer.

All looks were tailored really well. Especially the pants, the blouses and the navy trenchcoat looked stunning. Tomorrow Hyun Yeu will show a small womenswear collection. Since we loved the show today, we’re very curious about tomorrow. Will Yeu’s womenswear be just as good as his menswear line?

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The die-hard fashionpack already knew where Thom Browne was capable of. They’ve seen his shows from New York, for the Italian Moncler-label in Milan and his presentation at Firenze a few years ago. Browne’s shows are set up like a military operation, a huge set, models acting as a group on stage and all dressed alike.

So the set of of his first menswearshow in Paris was not surprising, but still overwhelming. The location was a large conference room at the official headquarters of the French Communist Party in Paris, designed by Oscar Niemeyer. The audience had to sit behinds the desks where party-members used to sit an debate about the cold war. As an American in Paris, the choice for the venue was – well – daring. Also because Browne kept pointing at historical ‘fights’ between the USA and USSR. For example the army of astronauts which opened the show by marching into the room. The models were hidden in the space-suits, and they all stepped out  at the same time dressed identically.

Their dress-code was boyish, and typical Thom Browne: a tight jacket with shorts, socks and brogues. They came in checks, blue, black, khaki, stripes or decorated with little bows, some had a flash of sequins. Eye-catching were the knee-high socks, the gold-frosted lips and the gold-colored mirroring sunglasses. Browne made himself clear.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2011 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Paris.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

No matter what the Lanvin man is doing – working, hiking, travelling, dating – you name it – he looks stylish and chic. But very low profile. “It’s active clothing in a sartorial environment, but not sportswear,” said Ossendrijver in an interview. “Everything is in movement – almost aerodynamic.”

The show started with slim fitted, tailored jackets with visible seams. The fabrics looked light and modern in one way but also used and almost antique the other way. Like the jackets in a reworked and remixed tapestry-print. There were lots of knitted stuff, very thin, sometimes sheer – like biker shorts, tank tops and leggings. New were the sneaker/sandal hybrids.

It was the mix of rich fabrics and sport-references that made this collection very contemporary and wearable The accessories just added the right dose of artsy stuff as did some colors like blue, yellow and red.

Paul Smith Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Even for fashionista’s it’s a hot day today. So at Paul Smith the fashion crowd waiting for the show got handed out free magnums! A nice gesture and a perfect way to set the mood right for the show.

A graphic planetarium print formed the background of the catwalk show. Long haired models came on stage as the show started. Their clothing style resembled that of a rock star. Their wardrobe existed of pants with small legs and shirts with busy cosmos prints. Their shirts were loose and were combined with suit jackets or leather jackets. Some of the endings of the shirt’s collars could be tied into a bow.

Unlike we’re used to at Paul Smith the prints didn’t have bright colors. In stead they were a mix of pastels and other faded shades. The tight pants had tiny stars on them. The items without prints were all beige, denim blue, red, black or deep blue.

The styling of the show looked great and was a perfect way for Paul Smith to show off some stuff from his other lines: accessories and shoes. He did a great job, cause the round hats, necklaces, sunglasses, leather bags, backpacks and ankle-boots worked very well together.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The Hermès show was as quiet and luxurious as the label can be. It just simply doesn’t need to scream fashion. It whispers. But when you listen carefully it tells you all everything you should know about next season’s way of dressing: the white suits, the lightweight fabrics, the shorts, the honey-colors,  the sandals, the summer-leather and suede and an accent in an intense color. The modern touch was added by ‘hybrid’ clothing: a shirt with a blouson back or diagonal zip-closure.

Jackets were unlined, scarves were knotted around the neck and the pleated trousers looks casual but dressed. Tobacco brown and emerald-green spiced up the mineral-base palette.

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