Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Designers are looking for new proportions and silhouettes, besides the HD-color, that’s the main message in Milan right now. Prada is trying to change the slim silhouette now for a few seasons, but it is difficult in a world where men hate to change the fit of their suit. They prefer to stick to what they have. But what Prada suggested yesterday didn’t seem strange at all: the rounded shoulderline, the wider fit and the black mixed with lurex in jewelcolors looked nice. However, it were the tracksuits and shiny, synthetic fabrics that made me look away.

In a time where men are desperately looking for a new dresscode this was not a serious alternative. It was tacky and a bit cheap. But, as with all those Prada-collections which irritate at first sight, the fashion-oracle probably knows something we all don’t understand yet. Time will tell.

Moncler Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Thom Browne did it again for Moncler. The US-based designer favors big shows in big spaces al orchestrated with military precision and tyhis time he chose an arena for his hunting-theme collection. Unfortunately for him you cannot orchestrate Beagles the way you do humans, so  the animals brought some life and laugh to the presentation. The collection itse;f consisted of long (waxed) coats in black and green, bodywarmers, colorful turtlenecks and checks for pants.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear FW 2011 day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Dolce & Gabbana-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The Missoni-collection was a small, capsule like collection of slim fitted  layered knits. Knitted jackets, pants, sweaters and cardigans in the signature Missoni colors and patterns.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

At Salvatore Ferragamo the seventies played a part in styling, from the big coats and bohemian layers ’till the turtlenecks and suede shirts with laced up closures. The Doors’ Riders on the Storm and Lou Reed were on the soundtrack and added that extra atmosphere to the presentation.

Color also played a major part in this collection and ran from off white and beige to red, bordeaux, blue and petrol. Different textures were mixed, and hats (the accessory of this season) and big scarves were added. The overall silhouette was fitted, with slim jackets, straight pants, simple knits and suede shirts.

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The collection Emporio Armani sent out this morning had an industrial theme, with lots of long coats, black and greys and a mix of fabrics and textures.

Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Why does a Burberry-show always make me cry? Most of the time it’s because of the sensitive soundtrack, the melancholy that drips from songs like Bang Bang sung by Cliff Richard or You don’t have to say I love you by Dusty Springfield. I know, It sounds silly but when I hear those songs and I see a good collection I cannot stop myself from swallowing those tears.  And this was a great collection totally focused at coats. Christopher Bialey went away from the militairy stuff he did send out a few seasons now and went for a more colorful and normal, daily theme like the British weather.

“We British, we are obsessed by the weather, and I wanted to explore that, and to celebrate the coat,” Burberry’s chief creative  said after the show. This outerwear, inspired by Burberry ads from the early Sixties, ranged from the sculptural to the streamlined. Tweeds, herringbones, laquered leather, camel and fur were used for car coats, partly in dark brown and black, but the sun breaked through with the reds, yellow, orange, blue and tangerine. The bold blanket checks looked daring and fresh as did the more sculptural coats from stiffened wools. After such a refreshing collection, the audience didn’t bother the showering rain at the end of the show.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear FW2011 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Dolce & Gabbana-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Raf Simons keeps on pushing the color-theme at Jil Sander. After two strong, minimalistic springcollections for him and her where he surprised the in all black dressed fashioncrowd with vivid colors and white T-shirts, his winter 2011 collection seems more in balance. He started with a dark suit, which actually was a mix of purple and black, combined with a shirt and sweater. But soon the colors changed into yellow, white, pink, orange and electric blue for total outfits and subtler mixes.

Simons replaced the mens shirt by T-shirts in shiny, bubbly fabrics and presented them in layers which added more volume and a fresh, modern touch to the minimal style.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

After a few strong menswear-seasons with the focus at Italian sartorial craftmanschip, Dolce & Gabbana moved on. They looked at Britain and 80’s style-icon Bryan Ferry, who’s slick style of shiny suits inspired a whole generation of young men back then. I guess Bryan Ferry was happy he grew out of that 80’s style of short, slightly squared jackets, wide lapels and tapered pants while watching the show in a slim suit and accompanied by two of his sons (who looked very smart too). It’s a big step from the handsome and streamlined Italian style we’re used to see at Dolce & Gabbana.

But maybe it’s just a matter of time. The look must seem bright new to a younger generation fed up with skinny pants and jackets. The new silhouette is more square and non fitted, jackets are much shorter and pants got low crotches. For the streetwise styling the designduo looked at British ska’s, with their hats, black and white, suspenders, short pants and shoes. The formal suit was mixed, a jacket with jeans, the pants with striped sweater, velvet with denim, faux fur with wool, pinstripes with pied de poule. There was even a hint of color next to the black and grey, red and bordeaux played a major role. The collection deserved the name Eccentric Tailoring –  only for those who dare.

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