Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

For next fall Junya Watanabe showed us a different take on the Fair Isle knits, which were a big hit this winter. Instead of showing the print on cardigans and sweaters Watanabe used it on suit jackets and coats in the most colorful examples. They looked comfy and warm and formed a good combination with the ankle hem of the (pretty basic-looking) pants. As they ambled around some park benches, placed in the middle of the stage, Watanabe’s mustached models really worked the new look.

The color palette ranging from bright red and blue to mustard yellow and dark green gave the collection a cheerful twist and showed the versatility of the collection too. ‘Cause whether it’s a 18-year old student or a 45-year old family man, many fellows will be able to work some of the fairy isle items into their wardrobes.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear FW2011 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Like other designers Dries Van Noten seemded to have found inspiration in the militairy world, but more free and luxurious using his  strengths as a tailor and colorist. His own comment to the collection though was that he wanted something glamorous without being feminine and that’s where David Bowie as the Thin White Duke comes along. Not only in the silhouette, also the grooming of the models and in the soundtrack.

A battalion of navy jackets and overcoats — some oversize and belted, others slim-line — formed the backbone of Van Noten’s collection. He added removable fur collars and lapels or  inner nylon shells in contrasting shades. He showed little discipline in the pants department, sending out skinny motorcycle and oversize Bowie-styles in equal measure. He also played with oppositions: a formal navy evening jacket over a casual white tee: a sleek, chic shawl-collared blazer in traditional camel pinning down the silhouette over huge white cargo pants; a cropped cadet jacket laden with bullion embroidery paired with a chunky hand-knit; dark overcoats in the most traditional English materials layered over their exact twins in bright white technical fabrics.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The Louis Vuitton-collection was a pitch dark one, with lots of black, dark-blue, brown and highlighted by off-white and the brightest of red. The silhouette was rather straight and sometimes the waist was accentuated with a belt or ribbon tied around it. It seemed designer Paul Helbers played with the volumes of a down jacket, textures of velvet, leather and fur, the mix of formal with informal. The coat played a big part in this collection, from kimono-inspired to parka. Different fabrics used in one item gave a contemporary look, the shiny and sharp body-warmers had the look of body armor. Luckily the red and white flowing fabrics like silk added some air into the rather strict and sober collection.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

It seemed the Viktor & Rolf Monsieur winter collection 2011 was sampled as if it was a normal dayroutine starting with  a man in his homewear, a gray combination of a sweater and a slim jersey sportspants/longjohn, followed by a man in white undies and a shirt and ending by a man dressed in a bomber-jacket covering his smoking. In between the designers presented everything a men’s wardrobe should contain during the day and eveninghours: a comfy cardigan, a lammy jacket, a trenchcoat, a good knit and a few nice looking suits in black, gray or even red. Having those basics a man can vary as much as he can. He can even wear his longjohn with a dressy jacket or let his shirt peep out.  It gave the rather serious and formal looking clothes a more informal character.

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show FW2011

Dirk Bikkembergs Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Streetfashion Milan Menswear FW2011

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Dolce & Gabbana-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Oh life is good and full of fun in the world of the D&G man. Despite it’s highly commercial level and copy & paste of all American logo’s and comics it was a breath of fresh air. Fashion has to be fun too, no? Especially after the dark years that are behind us now and the serious search of other labels for a new look and a new dresscode.

D&G let the sunshine in with their colorful, low crotch, small legged pants, copy/paste T-shirts with the Coca Cola logo and Disney-comics and preppy jackets and shirts. It seemed the American Fifties college-nerd inspired the designers for this mix and match of checks, prints, fits and proportions. It looked fresh and new thanks to the new proportions, shrunken wool knitwear, corduroy and padded nylon.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The metropolitan dandy was Frida Giannini’s muse for the fall 2011 Gucci menswear-collection. And how vain this dandy is, in his 70’s inspired impeccable suit in all tones of brown & grays worn with a purple or blue shirt and matching tie, polished shoes, ostrich-leather coat and slick hair. He even has his own clutch now, big enough to protect his daily newspaper ! (how old fashioned with the iPad in town).

The Gucci-man is still a playboy and will probably never ever become a dull housefather. Even during the weekend he looks like’s been studying every part of his outfit carefully. From the mohair sweater to the big, sheepskin coat and ribcord hunting-jacket. And please let him be, because besides the new intellectual in his HD-colored clothes we also need the naughty handsome playboy in his sensual, slick suit to balance it all out and keep us women dreaming.

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