Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Oh, how I wish every man would dress like Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta uses to dress his men. How tough, sensitive and beautiful they would look in one outfit. The Bottega Veneta ss2012-collection proved it again. Impeccable suits in decent colors and patterns, soft and tough leather pants and jackets, workwear de luxe in denim and leather and intelligent mixes of prints, knitwear and fabrics. It seemed a fine mix of the inventive and the innovative without screaming or being to eccentric.

The sheer quality of the materials put the collection into a high register and the essential alost invisible codes of the house were all there, especially in the soft bags folded under the arm like giant envelopes. Even the use of ‘shocking’ colors, as in turquoise or green suits, the result was still classy.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2012 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

It was the first time Roberto Cavalli’s son Daniele Cavalli had some influence on the menswear-collection. His father asked him to add some youthful juice to the line. He presented an almost clean collection, where blue-tones and white played a central role plus some bold colors. The show was a romantic take on Riviera summers with influences from all over the world. Instead of playboys in flirty clothes came men dressed smart casual in natty blazers, suits in vivid fuchsia, yellow or purple/blue, and jackets with inserts of python.It seemed the young designer wanted to do a very good job, not too cool and hip.

And somehow it worked out fine, to be honest: it was better than all the rock ‘ roll, Jim Morrison meets Mick Jagger inspired Cavalli-collections we’ve seen in the past seasons. Although it lacked a bit of irony.

John Varvatos Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

After just the first look the mood was set at John Varvatos. Dressed in a loose blouse and a slightly flared pair of trousers, accessorized by an eye-catching necklace the look of the long haired model breathed seventies, hippie-chic, romance and freedom.

From that first look on the loose silhouette continued (as well as the long hair). First in multiple grey tones. Changing from a loose fitting suit jacket to a military jacket and later a long cardigan (never without the necklace).

Waistcoats, suede jackets, a checked pair of pants and scarfs with the print of the American flag followed in shades of sand, camel, off white and black. All styled with a seventies vibe (lots of layering), but just as wearable combined with some less outspoken items for anyone who’s not feeling the early Rolling Stones style.

 

 

 

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Shorts, that’s exactly men need in steamy hot Milan right now. Eehm, in black? Well, why not. Since everybody visting Milan is wearing the bold colors of this summer why not try them in black? Raf Simons started the colorblocking trend at Jil Sander, so he’ll be the first to end it. Or to offer something completely different. And that’s what he did this afternoon with his Jil Sander ss2012 collection.

To be honest, all that black soothes the eye. And Simons didn’t give up on color yet, he just added fragments or fragmented colors to the black. In cotton knits, printed stiff T-shirts, the petrol-colored jackets and with the snake-skin pouches attached as a small life-vest to the models’ body. It seemed leather accessories were a big, loud message too.

Although all the black was a surprise,  the collection didn’t have the impact his eye-popping colors had a year ago. Look around you and see what it did to the streets. And the big wave still has to come. Let’s take it positive: black matches beautifully with bright orange, yellow and pink. Black is still the new black, but differently.

Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

It has been a while since Burberry Prorsum designer Christopher Bailey presented such a strong collection. Less commercial and predictable, more sensitive and daring regarding the fabrics, ethnic theme, colors and prints. Of course it had this typical British/Bailey  details like the small pant with straight, narrow legs, the fitted jackets, pimped up brogues, the old fashioned cardigans and of course a large variety of coats. Those coats where the main part of the collection, but the accents made the difference: the collars in multi-colored patterns or fluffy fur. Funny and delightful were the (golf)shoes with thick cork-soles and bright colorful details, the knitted sweaters, the shirts and pants in African inspired patterns (the ones Mandela likes) or ikats and the colors which moved between navy-blue to mustard, yellow, burnt orange and beige.

It sure will let the sun come out on a rainy day.

Watch the show here

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

 

Today at Dolce & Gabbana it was all about the net and the nets. Perforated and netted items were seen throughout the whole collection. A collection which started off quite dark (black and burgundy), but became lighter (white and light grey) towards the end.

In a press conference video Domenico and Stefano did something designers rarely do; they introduced there favorite models. Paolo Anchisi, Travis Bland, Adam Senn, Tim Ruger and Guy Robinson. Those guys wore the showpieces of new summer collection. A cotton jumpsuit, a netted leather T-shirt, a perforated leather jacket and a lightweight collarless jacket. After that some details were highlighted, like small pockets, 1 cm stitching and washed satin. Just to give you an idea of the collection.

Dolce & Gabbana showed some of their famous slick evening looks and gave the collection a sporty vibe by adding the netted (tanktops, sweaters, shorts, pants) garments and jumpsuits. The loose netted fabric might not be for everyone, but we’re just happy the designers let the models wear something underneath it…

Check out all our pictures above and the press conference video below.

Ermenegildo Zegna Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

What better way to start the Milan Fashion Week than with Ermenegildo Zegna. At it’s Milan based headquarters the fresh fashion crowd gathered for the presentation of Zegna’s new spring/summer collection.

The collection had a very airy vibe to it. Pale shades, light fabrics and smooth styling. Many of Zegna’s boys were dressed impeccably from head to toe; tight linen jacket, slightly cropped linen pants, a nice shirt, a small tie, a light colored pair of shoes and an impressive man-bag to top it off.

Some of the more relaxed looks contained shorts (right above the knee), relaxed sweaters, comfy leather flip flops and shiny parka’s all in faded shades of grey, sand, beige, lavender, taupe, bole and green.

The sportive jackets (one with a hood, the other with lots of pockets) and one knitted cardigan gave the collection a nice twist. The subtle two-tones on a suede jacket and a shirt fit the collection just fine. And the backpacks, classic sunnies, and chic scarfs were the perfect accessories.

There were no shocking surprises in the show, but Zegna did what so many men love about the brand; it presented cool, modern, comfortable looks. Clothes in which you can seal a major business deal as well as have some great family lunch.

 

 

Opening Sjaak Hullekes store

Pauline Krikke, major of Arnhem, had the honor to open the first shop of Dutch designer Sjaak Hullekes. Besides his menswear-collection, Hullekes is the first shop in the Netherlands to sell the wonderful French scented candles of LaDuree. And, soon he will present a small collection of womenswear.
The day of the opening, Hullekes had an interview in de Spits and he told the newspaper he wanted to have a store so he can see how people react to his collections and he can get to know his clients better. “And with a shop you can present the identity of a label better”, he said. Besides the store Hullekes also started a webstore, especially for international sales in the US and Japan.

And the latest news is that Sjaak is collaborating with shoe-designer Fred de la Bretonniere, he will be responsible for a new womenswear-collection!

Sjaak Hullekes, Kerkstraat 34, Arnhem ; more info http://sjaakhullekes.blogspot.com

Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Peter Dundas presented his first Pucci-menswear yesterday during his women’s fallshow. Not really exciting stuff, so most attention went to the women’s clothes. For Fall he’s got inspired by a long list of topics: hunters,  Tyrol, winter palaces, Romy Schneider as Sissi and  Victoire de Castellane, the designer of Dior’s haute joaillerie.
The bust was the center point of the collection, Dundas framed it with corseted hourglass dresses that had long sleeves and a little collar or a bow at the neckline.  These came in all manner of materials, from practically humble loden wool to sumptuous black velvet embellished with crystals arrayed in diamond patterns, as well as in the familiar Pucci prints.

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